150mph

hi. this is my first post. It's way long I know - it's been a bad day and 1000 thoughts are going through my head. I read a bit on the forum first, but not extensively, sorry.

Facts:
My MIL came on for the first time ever a couple of days ago. I followed the manuals tips about the fuel cap and several days of driving. It stayed on. I took it to a local shop. They told me the transmission needs to be rebuilt, approx. $2995 and there's nothing else they can do. The codes displayed are:
- p1739 TCM A/T controller circuit
- p0740 torque converter clutch solenoid circuit
Mechanic notes "Torque converter is coming apart, transmission fluid is burnt and dirty"

About a year ago, I started noticing a tiny leak in the driveway, which has grown somewhat and is more noticeable but not enough to affect the levels. I got an estimate then from Aamco Trans: $1200 exploratory, $2.5k - 3k total fix, along with dire warnings about pending catastrophe. I balked. I recall they said just changing out the fluid was risky - seals, etc. could go.

It's been clunking noticeably when dropping it into reverse for the last year. I put it down mostly as a result of parking on a sloped driveway. And several times in the last 2 years when I'd floor it to get out of a tight spot, usually in low 3rd, the tranny would slip and just plain ole not-kick-in. Other than those two sporadic conditions, its been a solid and reliable car.

2001 CL 3.2 TypeS coupe. Bought used from a dealer in 2007, 108k mi., EC, loaded, black w/black leather, power everything, a beauty for $12k, BlueBook price. Decently taken care overall - oil changed regularly, timing chain/water pump replaced at 160k (a little late, money's been tight), under the hood you could eat off the engine.

Thoughts:
After the leak, and the slipping, this is another nail in the coffin - a pretty severe blow at a bad time (ain't it always?) An old girl like this, I can't see putting that kind of $ into. I feel like I'll just have to take my chances and drive it until it falls apart because - here's the thing - I'm actually moving out of the country next Spring and had planned to sell it then for the BlueBook price. Now that's money I won't have for my move. That the transmission really does need to be rebuilt I have no doubt - it's an old car w/ high mileage, but I'm questioning the timeline. Acura's are built tough. (I had an Integra previously) When I saw the old timing belt after the $1200 dealer package service, it looked brand new - i would've trusted my life to hang off a cliff on that. Seemed it was more a peace of mind thing rather than a must-act-now thing, IMHO. That's what I'm thinking about today's dire news.

Questions:
- Do p1739 and/or p0740 mean the end for my transmission or is there hope? Anything I can try?

- Say I bite the bullet and get the tranny rebuilt, any tips for the best deal? I'm in LA/W. San Fernando Valley

- I had a beater Dodge back in the '70's I drove for a whole year with a badly slipping tranny. My CL has no overtly serious transmission issues other than intermittent slip when flooring it and a shifting "clunk" on hills. Is this car basically worthless at resale time without me investing 2-3k? I'm pretty sure I won't be able to get that back 4 mos. from now.

- I've never heard of a transmission causing a wreck on the freeway - they just kind of slip and you don't go, right? How concerned should I be about a catastrophe?

- Can I get the MIL lamp turned off or do I have to look at that until the transmission is replaced?

Thanks for reading all this. Experiences and suggestions welcome.

150mph

No editing posts? bummer Forgot to list current mileage is 182,000

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

The transmission problems for these cars are a pretty common issue. If it's still drivable, I say drive it but your on borrowed time. I've heard of the transmission randomly downshifting to 2nd gear on the freeway before, not common but maybe a story or 2 since I've joined.
No way to reset the CEL if the problem is still there. Sorry but if the codes exist, you won't be able to pass smog.

I would try not to drive the car too much until you move and sell when you sell it be honest to the buyer. Let them know that the CEL is on due to the transmission but it is still drivable. If you can't unload it, sell it to Carfax for pennies.

Hate to say it but your car was a bit pricey back when you bought it.

MATL

I bought a 2000 TL as a winter ride 2 years ago with 148,000 miles. Shortly after buying it it started to "bobble" or slip in 3rd. I had an Acura dealer change the fluid, but no improvements. As the weather became warmer, the trans improved. It didn't always shift perfectly, but it would goof up intermittently. Then it became cold and the bobbling and slipping occurred again. A couple of times it went into limp mode. Warm weather = Trans Better, now cold again and more slipping. I became used to slapping the shifter into manual mode and flipping into 2nd or 4th as needed. I now have over 160,000 miles and the trans is still not completely dead yet. I drive it nice about 98% of the time to avoid any excessive trans damage.

At highway speeds, typically over 50 MPH, the traction and dummy light come on with the P0740 code. If I drive anything less, it never turns on.

I am now faced with a little problem. MIL light = Failed emissions test. How stupid is that? I can reset the codes but then I have to run a drive cycle, not to mention a 20 mile drive to the testing station with roads exceeding 55 MPH. So here is a silly question, what actually causes the code when driving at highway speeds? Is it gear related? If you drive in D4 on the highway, will the P0740 code still pop up?

aznboi2424

iTrader: (10)

What is code P0740?