My clutch is slipping which wont allow me to launch or shift hard. Sucks because I have all these power mods and short shifter that I can't use fully. I would love to go to the track. I would do the clutch myself, but from what I have heard it is a real PITA.

 

I have a good mechanic in Beleville that did my clutch and didnt charge me that much.

Video from a race. I was racing my friend in 1G CL 3.0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9w7KYXWIwmw

 

How much did he charge you? I got a $1400 quote from Acura, and a $1200 quote from a trans shop.

 

I brought my parts. I resurfaced my old flywheel but it took long time to have it done. Like 8h but most of the time we was waiting for the flywheel to be back from a machine shop. You can buy new flywheel and save some time but it can be done with old one too. He didnt charge me much for labor +$50 for the shop to resurfaced my clutch. He did a good job.

Best way to get estimate is to call him. Give me pm i give u his number

 

PM sent.

 

Are you running 235's all around, or just in the front? Did you roll your fenders?/Do they rub?

 

235 all around. Rolles fenders and a bit shaved bumpers tabs.

 

It was kind of cold at the track too, wasnt it?

Im really liking the Hankooks, but Im planning on running Continentals for my next set.

 

^ I highly recommend Toyo Proxes 4

They are amazing tires and grip on the track like crazy

 

Continental Extreme Contact DW ?

 

^ Yessir. Theyve gotten better ratings then the Hankooks, but they are more expensive.

 

Continental makes some of the best tires right now. For winter driving, I swear by the extreme contact DWS.

 

Let me tell u something. I had true winter tires and now i had continentals DWS. They are great tires in dry and wet they are doing ok in the snow but hands down cant beat the winter tires at all in snow. I know they are all season but next year im running generals arctic for the winter. The side wall of DWS is so soft so weak and u can easly damage the rim so i did. In the rain they are much better than my Potenza RE760 which really sucks. I say summer tire for summer, winter tire for winter. Best summer tire i had was hankook v12 but they got worn very quick.

 

Nice run. U sould spray a small shot. Get in the low 13's with some stickier tires

 

 

My car is my baby lol. Talk all u want about bottles, but when u need that tad bit of extra power, its there.

 

Just messing with u. If i find a good used unit i may jump on it. Dont know much about it but i think 75hp dry should be ok

 

So I just took my car to get the oil changed (didn't have time to do it myself) for the first time since I bought it from an Acura dealer tw months ago. The drain plug is stripped and whoever did it last used two gaskets to cover it up. Any suggestions?

 

My guess is to tap it but the pieces will go inside so big no. I think temporary fix will be teflon tape or something else then look for new oil pan or something. Not sure i remember there was somebody with same problem in problem/fixes section. You may find ur answer there

 

Nice run streetka! You have 235 on your servo?? I thought you have 225s.
I can't make decision between 225 and 235 for my new whees.

Joyfil what streetka said. If it stripped bad, most likely oil pan get replaced. Just my thought.
I think there's some kind of bolt kit for stripped drain plug.

 

Well you learn something new everyday. They make an oversized drain plug specifically for this problem. Going to take care of it on Thursday.

 

Im looking to buy old '76-'84 Mercedes-Benz W123 must be diesel. 240D or 300D can be 300TD too. Preffered manual 4 speed. If i cant i will try get W124 in diesel also. I wonder if fries know why i want to buy one of these

 

Fries ? Civic ?

Ok heres what i did in europe. Where gas prices are much higher than in a usa. I used Canola oil the one for cooking to fill up my Benz. It was running perfectly fine in the summer but once temps droped i had to install heaters.

http://greasebenz.com/

I found '93 300D benz for $2000 that will be my alternative fixture for gas prices.

 

those oversize drain bolts not the best solution to covering up a stripped pan, yes they do work, but eventually you will need to get a new pan anyways (and those oversize plugs suck ass in that they start to drip as soon as you loosen them; compared to original plug, which does not flow till you completely remove the plug; let alone quite often you have to use a wrench on them to get them all the way out, instead of being able to crack it loose, and spin it out by hand)

, and i am figuring you want the vacuum actuated door locks...

and i had work, so i could not have responded earlier ; let alone my computer got a fucking STD Sunday night , so using other computers right now

only thing i will say though, is that do you plan on buying the canola oil by the gallon at the store? or getting it from restaurants and refining it yourself?

only thing i might see is that depending on how you get it exactly, your time might be more worth it working and earning money instead of the amount of money you are trying to save by making your own fuel (since time=$$$)

 

I ended up going with a piggyback oversized plug. That means i will only have to install the new plug and never have to remove it. I will probably use loctite on there as well.

 

I have contacts at restaurants im just waiting for the price if they will raise anymore i pull the trigger.

 

you mean the timesert type of repair, where you still are using the stock drain plug (btw photo in link actually looks to be a honda oil pan)
http://www.timesert.com/html/drainplug.html


cause if so, those are alot more acceptable (and considered standard practice at times; some you have to remove the pan though to even get a straight shot at the hole though, so sometimes might as well put a new pan on) for me, then those oversized plugs

 

as said sometimes it can be worth it to just pay for regular fuel depending on the prices of all the needed materials; conversion parts (why do you think hybrids for the most part are a joke for truely trying to save $$$, cause the premiums you pay for the car, and the repairs needed to the systems when they crap out, sure as hell buys you alot of fucking gas, even at $4 a gallon), and how much your time is worth to collect and transform how ever often you need to do it

 

Nope, more like this http://www.cgenterprises.com/drain_p...ize_repair.htm

Napa sells them.

 

better then the single type i guess

 

installed S2000 AP1 steering wheel with RSX airbag that thing feels so good to drive its even more fun now to drive this car. i love it.

My old streering wheel with airbag is up for sale

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...3#post12902513

 

Clutch SS line and Slave Cylinder with check valve removed are ready to install one question to be sure. Whats the right process to bleed the clutch ? Same as brakes ? Which reserviour tank for clutch fluid and what kind of fluid to use ? Dot3

 

basically yeah same as brakes, with pushing it down and cracking the bleeder open a little, it helps to have a vacuum bleeder here but not mandatory, so a friend is needed
ONE THING though, which gets most people though, the pedal WILL NOT return back up when the bleeder is cracked open, it has to be manually pulled back up (no pressure is in the line to push it back up)(and after a couple of bleeds, it should start feeling better and self returning, when you pump the pedal up, getting ready to crack open the bleeder)


reservoir... the little one just left (sitting in the driver's seat) of the brake master (towards the driver side)
fluid.... whatever you used in your brake system, but yes DOT 3 is recommend (i think DOT 4 is allowed also)









also as a side note, learn how to bleed/flush the clutch hydrualics well, it ALWAYS seems to get dirtier then the brake system, so it can always use more frequent flushing of the system, to get the garbage out the system and fresh fluid in there








edit: MAKE SURE TO CHECK THAT RESERVOIR LEVEL OFTEN, WHEN BLEEDING, it does not take much to drain, only 2-3 bleeds MAX

 

thanks for quick response !

 

hopefully you will see this in time, but another tip; when changing out those components, keep the reservoirs cap on, tight; it help to create a seal, and stops/minimizes from having ALL the fluid drain out of the master and such, so it is less of a headache with trying to bleed the ENTIRE system instead of just those components


also work swiftly but diligently when swapping out those components; AGAIN to help minimize any potential bleeding issues (ie: less chance for more air to get into the system), especially with the master cylinder

 

Id bench bleed the slave before installation to speed up the bleeding process too.

 

I can donate 1 to you if u can pic it up depending on where u stAy in NJ

 

Update

Front and rear XLR8 engine mounts are installed. I got only 300miles with them. Still waiting for the side mount so i can start timing belt change and valve adjustment at the time.

I need new axles and brakes especialy fronts i was thinking about EBC rotors and red pads

Clutch mod is still not done but i will take care of it within few days.

 

good work here, and btw, the ebc stuff is good, thats what i have....
on your way to 13.9>...gl

 

When im done with this i will hit the track again but this time with new shoes, 15lbs each if the other member will let me use them

This time i will provide a video from inside of my car.