UPDATE:



Just got something in the mail today












fuck it, it was gonna be too obvious anyway

 

Yummy... Have you followed this guys car? Its nice. J37 IM im only on page 4. He did comptech springs and the car sits perfect. Not lower in the rear than front. He makes big power too....

 

link it

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/2g-cl-2001-2003-50/got-my-01-cl-s-yesterday-493425/

 

Oh that's e30's car. It got totaled. He drives a 350z now. His motor is now in Nspec's car.

 

UPDATE:


Still waiting for the headers from comptech. They are still on backorder.


I also picked up a daily driver. It's a 1988 Volvo 240DL 5-Speed with 195,000 miles on it. It runs like a champ. I added a roof rack to it

 

nice house. damn rich people.

 

Prob not rather people that work very hard to have what they have. Jacob congrats on finding you Volvo. My God Mother had one new in the 80's. I hated that car then and i have to say after seeing yours, nothings changed HA HA HA!!!. Can't wait on headers. Would you be up for doing a dyno b4 and after so we can show the 1st & 2nd gen CL and 2nd gen TL folks that adding headers (whether comptech or another brand) yields as much power 20-30hp as J-pipe on newwer J-series motors. Thx... Enjoy your new ride bro.

 

Don't insult me like that, I'm a successful business man and........ j/k it's my parents house . They worked their asses off for it.



Thanks man. I love the car, it's not for everybody though, that's for sure. I can't get enough of it though, it's so fun to drive! I think i'll pass on the before and after dyno. There are plenty of stock and header'd dynos in the dyno section. I might dyno it after I get full bolt-ons though. I also plan to drive it to the quarter mile strip and my goal is to break into the high 13's. This is the CL were talking about of course I might be able to hit a 17 with the volvo if the wind is blowing in the right direction lol

 

Oh no doubt if you are a good driver it will. My stock cl-s6 ran 14.371@97. Slip clutch out at 4k-45k rpm. Feathering out the clutch is best vs. letting out fast. My guess would be 13.7@100. thats G35/37 fast . Do you know any frinds with g35/37 that can join you at the track or 350/370z. Even tho Z-car is lighter so not as fair.

 

CT headers? so you have every bolt ons except header?
nice house!

 

13.7 might be pushing it a little. i managed to run a 9.3 1/8th mile at the worst drag strip in California, so im sure I can do like a 13.8 or something like that.


Here's a video of me beating a camaro


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kIc8qGla-qE


Every bolt on except for headers and pulley. I already have the pulley, it's just not installed yet. I'm waiting for the headers to get in so i can get them installed all at once. Thanks, it's my parents house.

 

Good job saggiN.

 

^ Thanks mayne! We need to have another meet. Maybe it can be a bike/volvo meet

 

Let me just say this. Were already good on the G35 part. I raced one in the 1/8th mile once over and over for 2 hours, and I won just about each time by a couple of fenders


A G37 would have given me a hell of a hard time though.....

 

 

Volvo FTW.

 

So a funny little think happened a couple of days ago. I have been driving my volvo for around 3 weeks now and had not taken the CL out for about a month and a half. I get in it a couple of days ago to take it for a spin around the block. I gunned it going down this slight hill going from around 40-90. IT FELT LIKE A ROCKETSHIP! I had a huge headache and felt nauseous. Now before you guys start telling me "it's just a v6, stop exaggerating", this all happened because I had been use to driving a 90whp volvo that forces me to literally have to step on it 3/4ths of the way down just to accelerate to the flow of traffic. Not just that, but the CL handled and rode like some sort of supercar. Obviously it's not, but it just goes to show you how weird it is to step into a car with 3 times the power than something that you have become so adapted to.

 

I get the same feeling when I go from a rental car back to mine.

 

i get the same feeling, it's great. I drive a 1.6L auto sentra in the winter and it has no balls. Drove the CL one day last week to work, and it felt great.

 

Just makes you appreciate your car that much more. I had the same feeling when going from a rental Civic to my Accord. Obviously on a much smaller scale, but still, the appreciation was there.

 

Rental car, sentra, civic? Those are ferrari's compared to mine lol


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rYevC1hv4fM

 

That would be a close race between that and a Chevy HHR.

 

Does anyone know how many lbs I can shave off by getting lighter weight lugs? Is it worth it besides looks?

 

Ounces, not pounds.

 

x2. Lugs aren't really a place you'd want to be saving pounds though

 

Yeah I wouldn't ever consider weight reduction in my lugs when there are so many other places to shave weight.

I'm shopping for replacement lugs right now and I can't really understand why good quality lugs cost so f*n much!

 

I was gonna say lighter lug nuts might make them weaker, and that could have disastrous consequences

 

Yeah, I said lbs because I really have no idea on how much some of those fancy $200 lugnuts can weigh. I know that it wouldn't shave off alot of weight either way, but the important thing about it is that it can help with the wheel's rotating mass.


Aman put out a very good point about how they could be weaker though . I never even thought about that.

 

I know...damn those things are expensive.

I'm trying to make my brain justify the price on lugs but it's just not working...

Not sure how inferior some of the less expensive ones are...like Blox, Skunk2, or other sets in the $100 range.

 

Actually unsprung weight is a great place to save lbs. You'd only save 3-4lbs from the whole unsprung weight for all 4 wheels. Better off selling those heave wheels and startting over with light weight forged rims. My 18x7.5 Volk SE37A's were 18.5lbs a piece vs almost 25lbs for stock 17's 6lbs savings of unsprung weight a corner is huge. The acceleration difference would shock you. My Parada tires (225/40 18WR) at the time would break loose so easy from the added torque from the reduced rotational mass. So your thoughts are in the right place but how to do it is incorrect

 

My wheels weigh 17lbs each and I didn't notice any difference when I put them on

 

It's the same reason you don't save weight on your brakes. Most, if not all the weight is absolutely necessary.

 

did you weigh your wheels Jacob? i can't find any specs on those rims regarding weight.

 

Not necessarily. Aluminum calipers, two piece rotors save weight. The stock front calipers weigh around 13lbs IIRC while the RL aluminum two piece calipers weigh around 7 lbs. Two piece rotors usually have an aluminum top hat which saves a bit of weight as well.

Moving from there you have the suspension. Aluminum coilovers weigh less then the standard struts/springs.

Jake - If you still have your stock wheels, toss them back on for a day and go for a drive. I have the 3G TL wheels on my car right now and I definitely feel the difference between them and my Works, and the Works aren't incredibly light either. My next wheels are about 4lbs lighter then them per corner.

 

How does aluminum react to heat compared to steel rotors? The reason I said you wouldn't want to save weight on your brakes is that their performance might be degreaded as well...

 

I emailed the company and they told me they weigh 17lbs. Then I weighed them myself just to be sure


There not a big name company either.

 

The rotor surface is still steel/iron/ceramic/whatever. The top hat is aluminum.

 

Still waiting on the headers

On another note, does anyone know what our block is made out of? Is it cast iron?

 

I thought it was aluminum, I don't know of any Honda with an iron block.