flint

iTrader: (2)

Installed the cooling mods yesterday. After the supercharger the car always seemed to be running hotter under the hood and the fans ran a lot more. Install was really straight forward and took about an hour. My impressions so far is that there is no difference in warm up time, the gauge sits in the same place (inaccurate anyway), but the fans actually run less now where i expected them to run more or about the same. I feel better knowing things will be staying a bit cooler. Its going to help more at the track and in stop and go driving.

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

So I take it you did the install yourself?

flint

iTrader: (2)

yes

Sly Raskal

iTrader: (1)

i want to do this mod as well, but is it something you think i could handle with just my helm's manual as my reference?

i did my icebox installation myself as well.

blader

its funny you posted about this I was just about to order these today ..

would you mind telling me how these are installed? Is it difficult? and did you do the radiator cap as well? I know people usually do the combination of the 3.

Oh and where did you buy from? price?

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

The hardest part of this mod is getting the fan switch off the thermostat housing.
I did all 3 + the addition of some water wetter. Took about a 1/2 hour.

Smitty

the fan switch should be removed before you take off the Thermostat housing.. that will make it alot easier....

Chaptorial

Just got these in the mail yesterday. They'll be going on at the same time as the S/C.

scalbert

Unless you remove the T-Stat housing completely and put it in a vice, remove the fan switch first, replace it and then do the T-Stat.

phipark

So, I guess these two are just a simple switch out? These might be dumb questions, but where are they located? Are you required to do a radiator flush?

NOLACLS

Is this something for SC cl's only or does it help at all on n/a ones?

scalbert

It is for any J32 engine.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

Yes... Hence my post

NOLACLS

I know that...but is it only useful if you have the SC or does it help with n/a as well is what I wanted to say

scalbert

This was on my car with just headers and a custom intake. The blue line was after installing the fan switch and T-Stat and after letting the car get up to operating temperature on both pulls:

bigman

damn, convinced me

blader

same here. where do I get them?

scalbert

King Motorsports:
http://www.kingmotorsports.com/

Don't bother looking up the parts under CL as they are not listed. Just call them and order these part numbers.

THERMOSTAT 19301-XGMR-0000 $69.00
FAN SWITCH 37760-XK5-00N0 $45.00
RADIATOR CAP 19045-XGER-0000 $29.00

blader

thank you steve.

kevin79925

anyone got pix that show you how to install it? oh and some detailed instructions

NOLACLS

Ahh CRAP how did I miss this?? SO these are 3 things that just swap out the old OEM stuff or do you have to do some moding to make them fit?

Another question...are the dates right on the dyno sheet. You did the first in august and the next in december. If so would the cooler outside temp come into play with those #'s??

Smitty

Just remember to do the fan switch first...... and THAT THE CAR IS ICE COLD... DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS WHEN THE CAR IS HOTT.

Place a NICE clean large pan or large LID from a rubbermaid storage container under the car, directly under where your working.
Take a 10mm socket w/ extension and lossen the thermostat housing...
remove the thermostat, take the rubber gasket off your stock thermostat and place it on the MUGEN one the exact way.. THE mugen GASKET IS TOO LARGE AND WILL NOT WORK..... make sure the pin is placed at 12 noon and place the thermostat back in, THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK THE STOCK ONE OUT.... tighten down the housing with equal pressure.
Put the fluid that came out back into the radiator after you start the car.. use a funnel.

Place your new cap back on...

Word of advise, do not screw around all day and leave the thermostat housing open.. you will get air in the system and then have to bleed it out.....you will know if you got air in the system because the dumbie gauge in the car will SKY rocket... If you over heat the car.. BOOM, there goes your head gasket.

Incase you get air in the system... MAKE sure the car is COLD... take the rad cap off.. start the car... add fluid to the rad. till it comes to the top... squeeze the radiator lines.. when the car gets warm you will see the fluid raise and start to come out of the rad.. replace with the new MUGEN cap.. WATCH YOUR DUMBIE GAUGE in the car and make sure it is either 1 or 2 clicks below half way...

Maybe a day later, when the car is cold.. check the fluid level again, by opening up the rad cap and seeing if it will take anymore fluid...

Mind you.. your fluid mixture if your adding new fluid should be 50/50.. 50% new rad fluid and 50% water.. you can buy it premixed or do it yourself..

tool462

these part numbers will also fit the 3.0 first gen Cl and the 3.0 Accord 98 - 02
Thanks Scalbert

scalbert

Those dates are correct but both were done with the same rough IAT readings and a fully warmed engine (the dyno was indoors).

In addition, TOV also witnessed the same occurance. This is how I embarked upon the project of finding the right parts.

darrinb

thanks for the steps smitty, i think imma order this, i hate how the weather kills my performance

flint

iTrader: (2)

I didn't buy the radiator cap. I couldn't see the benefit of it.

1gCL

iTrader: (1)

I believe the radiator cap either increases or decreases the pressure in your cooling system which in turn will either increase or decrease the boiling point of the fluid in the system. That's all I can remember....scalbert or someone else elaborate or correct me please.

cartan

Good directions. Thanks Smitty. I did this mod today and I just want to note that a lot more fluid came out than I expected. I caught most of it based on Smitty's suggestion, but some still got away. I ran to the store (in my wife's car) and bought some more coolant to replace what was lost.

Just to emphasize: be prepared for a fair amount of fluid to pour out.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Do we have a step by step install procedure with pics?

Smitty

:fingerfawk:

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Back at ya buddy.

That's okay I've got your cell number, I'll just be calling you when I do this in a few weeks.

Amoeba

Does this mod do anything for performance for a non supercharged CL in like 85 degree weather.

cartan

scalbert already answered this earlier in the thread.

cartan

It is not that difficult. But if you have any questions, let me know. We can meet up at some point and I can show you what needs to be done.

mrsteve

iTrader: (1)

Thanks alot! I'd appreciate that. I'm actually moving MUCH closer to you in about 6 weeks. Moving to Highland, right off of 108 and Mink Hollow.

Pure Adrenaline

iTrader: (2)

scalbert --

Do we really need the radiator cap??

scalbert

No, but it looks nice...

RUF87

:ROFL:

BTW Scalbert, thanks for the dyno charts . . . maybe we'll get a few more guy's out to out Scalbert Cooling Mod meet later this month . . . no kidding either.

Also, I bought a 15/16 deep socket that fits the t-switch and makes the install go easier. I've also reminded folks that it would be a good time to add some WaterWetter while they are at it.

Ruf

Smitty

Nashua_Night_Hawk

I may get this mod too, it is not bad for what you pay for. Howver, I live in damn cold North east. temp can drop to -10F!