I made another thread earlier https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196204 and ended up with this Can anyone help???

 

u need to get the emanage working b/c something is def. not right. Experts should chime in shortly

 

imrc connected ? either way not working

 

yeah imrc connected. also has hbp and they said they saw 4 lbs

 

4psi is low for HBP. Check your belt tension as one item. Also Mustang Dyno's will read lower than others. Was there enough airflow through the front of the car to keep it cool?

 

There's src racing in Boca they have a dynojet, Theres a few places in N broward as well. I would dyno again on a dynojet.

 

Yeah thanks fuzzy. I might try to find a dynojet. I expected the numbers to be lower on the mustang dyno, and I would be ok with that as long as it ran like other cars that get 300+whp on dynojet. My issue is that they're an authorized greddy dealer and couldn't hook up my emanage w/ a boomslang harness.

 

THis was dynod on a Mustang Dyno if I'm not mistaken... those ALWAYS will read alot lower then Dynojets which is common. I can't really see the numbers too well but that is already the first thing I noticed.

You can't compare all dyno numbers too eachother...

You were better off doing a Baseline too find out where you started then compare it to this one on the same dyno and preferably same conditions to have a TRUE idea of exactly what gains you have netted.

 

Yes it was a mustang dyno. And yes in hindsight I probably should have had a dyno before install. Max numbers were 218 whp, 206 wtq, mid-high10s afr. The power feels sluggish and twitchy and sometimes feels like it hits a rev limiter around 5500 rpm. The aem wideband in the car reads 10 (lowest it will read) at anything over maybe 60-70% throttle.

 

if it were round 4800-5k it could be low oil

 

I thought you guys said not to run the butterfly valve when using the hbp?

 

Those max #'s sound like what the stock type-s should be putting out

 

oil was changed 2 days before install. just double checked and its not low.

 

yeah it's disconnected now. forgot to tell them before the dyno.

 

Yeah that's what I said to the "tuner". He said it's because it's a mustang dyno, and also because afr isn't right because they couldn't hook up the e-manage. I looking for a new shop with better knowledge of e-manage.

 

The IMRC must be disconnected with the HBP. Next thing... I would not recommend another dyno run until your Emanage or other engine management tool is up and running.

I am running the SBP, and dynoed on a Mustang Dyno... You should be well into the 330 + range if not better.

 

WOW..thats alot of fuel!!!! thats another issue

 

This is absolutly WRONG information. It has been proven many times the problem with the IMRC is the sudden lean condition created for a brief moment upon its opening especially when using 91oct fuel. There is also and instant where it goes lean with VTEC engagement. Both are further exagerated the more boost you add. The IMRC adds 20+ hp with the blower and it is perfectly safe to use in conjunction with an eman blue or ult. More fuel is dialed in right before engagement. You need another tuner! I dont understand why you cant install the emanage with the boomslang harness because your tuner is a Greddy dealer. Mine is and he will and does do the installs all the time. In addition, 330hp could be seen only on a perfect day for a dyno run with an emanage tune. You will not see that kind of power unless your dyno is indoors, airconditioned to 75 degrees, humidity is very low or 0, and you have a 6speed manual transmission. If you are dynoing in 100degree weather with 20% humidity you would only see about 305hp with the 6speed.

 

So since it runs so rich, should I connect the imrc to help lean it out? I ended up installing the e-manage myself with a rough map, and it runs a little smoother but still not good. I still don't know why that shop couldn't get it to start. They also insisted they would keep trying to research and figure out what they did wrong and fix it but they never called to follow up. I still need to get it tuned. When shopping for a tuner is it more important that they are familiar with e-manage or with Honda/Acura engines? And yeah with the weather conditions of a florida summer, I'm not expecting 330 whp on any dyno.

 

anyone familiar with either can get you going in the right direction but to do it right I would think you need to go to someone else who is more familiar with the emanage and honda motors. I think you should connect your IMRC as soon as you get to a good shop that can take care of you and has done a few emanage's already to get a professional tune ASAP.

 

I have the SBP on mine at this time and my AF looks just like yours. I pulled the blower off the car for now and have ordered an eman since I am running so rich with the blower and making minimal gains. As soon as it gets in I am putting on my HBP and the eman at the dyno shop and tuning with my friend who is a professional eman tuner in Trusville, AL at Motorvations Motorsports. Find someone with a dyno jet also. That dynograph looks horrible. I was making 245hp and 214tq on a dynojet Normally aspirated before my blower in 101F 24%humidity conditions.

 

Something may be very wrong with your car or the install. You need a professional bigtime! let us know how it goes. Jim

 

On that same day though running way rich I did make 280hp in 101F and 25% humidity with the blower on so I think something is very wrong with your install.

 

Jim- you may be right about the bad install. I don't know that much about tuning cars but I expected to break 250 whp; even without e-manage and on a mustang dyno. I really hope it can be fixed with a tune, but at this point I wouldn't be surprised if the whole install is bad. Actually I would be because I know for a fact they worked on a members cl and got good numbers, but he had unichip. I contacted several shops earlier and they either didn't tune e-manage or couldn't do it til next month. 2 of those shops referred me to another shop, which I will call tomorrow.

 

Good Luck with it! Keep us posted. I wonder if your cat is fried and blocking the exhaust? I would also check for leaks between the blower and the pistons.

 

I picked up a Random Tech hi-flow cat in the BM a few months ago. How would I know if it's fried. It did make some rattle noises at start up for a while but not lately.

 

Those rattling noises were probably the inside of the cat being fucked up and the fact that it stopped rattling could mean it's clogged? Just takin a stab in the dark...

 

The honey comb mesh inside the cat can get cracked or dislodged and twisted or turned thus blocking the air flow. Take the cat off the car and bang on it with your hand and look through it while doing so. don’t beat the shit out of it. Also if the RT cat is the bolt on type it was made for the cl/tl-p exhaust which is substantially smaller than the OE Type-S exhaust. There is still not a ready to bolt on kit available for the Type –s. You must order the 2.5” in/out RT cat for 168 and weld on the o2 bung, flanges and pipe needed. I'm about to do it on mine in the next two weeks. Jim

 

I see. Now that you mention it, I recall a member a couple months ago said the RT cat hurt his power a lot. I knew it was for the p models when I bought it, but I didn't think about the smaller diameter. I guess I should get this on before I get tuned. You mind sharing the part number for the correct cat. Order direct from RT? Any exhaust shop should be able to weld a new bung and flanges, right? Thanks for the help

 

Yes, any exhaust shop should be able to take care of it.

13-172-25000

here at this website http://www.thunderracing.com/catalog...mid=90&sid=169

You should call RT and make sure it is right for your application.

 

Exhaust restrictions usually make your boost go up beause of the boost stacking in face of the restriction, and since your hitting 4psi with the HBP.

Check the tension on the SC belt, make sure its tight.

 

The belt seems to be snug. How tight should it be? And how do I adjust it?

 

This is the guideline I use to adjust mine:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...ght=twist+test

 

The sc belt is as tight as the other smaller belt up top, but not as tight as the wider belt by the crank pully. Oh they also put on the stock-size UR pulley. That shouldn't have any affect should it? Ok back to the cat.. they put the new bung for the wideband on the cat. Is that right. Can it go on the header after the flex pipe before the cat?

 

Last night I went to a different shop with a dynojet and a different tuner. No CEL, no noticable leaks, belt was tightened, engine and blower sound healthy. He helped the A/F ratio, but couldn't get any power. Runs were done in 3rd gear but I think that's irrelevant at this point. It only made ~ 180 whp +/- and wtq was steady in the 190s. It wouldn't boost right. It would go from vac to 0 fine, but seemed to choke at ~1 lb of boost until almost 6k rpm; then it would shoot up to 4.5-5 lbs. It runs like it is N/A up til 3600-3800 rpm with a smooth power curve but after that it gets really choppy. He said it felt like the plugs had too much gap. The wideband gauge in the cabin reads ~.4 richer than on the dyno. They think the cat (which is already too small) is probably clogged; so clogged that it may be pushing the exaust back in the motor and hurting the spark/combustion. There is very little pressure coming out the mufflers. Going to check the cat now.

 

I took the cat off and the screens are still there and I can see through it. Some pieces came out when I hit it, not big chunks but little shards. If I shake it, it rattles like a lot more pieces loose in the middle. I'm definitely going to replace it, with either a larger cat or maybe a test pipe, but until I get the right part, should I leave it as it is or just put a broom handle through it?

 

Get a new larger 7000 cat like we discussed or put a test pipe on. That cat sounds thrashed.

Did you make sure to install the ESM from comptech so the ECU does not see boost in the manifold? Did you make sure the voltage is set correctly if you did? Did you make sure t is installed correctly? Check again and check the voltage. Also did you solder it in or did you use some crappy kind of connector? That may be your problem.

 

Should be 2.94V i believe, if its not well done then the computer will notice the boost and remove all ignition advance, which means you'll have almost no power.

You can drop down to 140lb-ft o torque, i've seen this happen to Siggy but his problem persisted up to VTEC and then the problem would resolve itself, it was just the Greddy Emanage not clamping down the MAP voltage correctly.

AS for the exhaust you can just unbolt everything after the j-pipe and see what happens.

 

With the e-manage communicating and the car off he floored the gas pedal and said the ecu can see 4.8x volts. I told him it should be 2.9x. It ran weaker and shut down around 5800 rpm with lower voltage. The chart above is at 4.8V

 

Oh yeah forgot to mention I got a cel yesterday while driving. p0136 & p0137 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0137 Didn't get the code during the 1.5 hours on the dyno, but while cruising on the highway.