Take all that plastic shiat off your paint...>That looks terrible!

 

Pulling power away -- I don't think so (the pulleys WILL help – period). I only have some questions about bearing wear issues – and time will tell.

Exactly WHAT is going on -- who knows for sure?

The pulleys, if not for some concerns for bearing wear, will reduce the engine side mass and unless they impact the timing/jitter of the ECU (car's computer), they just give you more "effective" HP/TQ gain. (More relative gain vs. non-UR-pulley in lower gears – that doesn’t mean dyno in lower gears == more power/better display. You made a comment about this in the other thread for a few chuckles

So, the 18" wheel weights relative to the stock 17" will not change the percent gain in any gear (it's just like adding or removing a bit of weight from the Dynojet's rollers). The gain or loss is fixed relative to gearing. OTOH, the pulleys change the "dynamic" relative to the particular gear that the car is in. (That doesn't mean you want to do a dyno in a lower gear -- that's not what I'm saying...)

People keep looking at just the weight of a wheel, and you could have a 26 lbs 18" wheel that would kick the crap out of a 18 wheel that only weighed 22lbs The "construction" of the 18" wheels (how that weight is distributed from the inside to the outside of the rim) can have a large impact on how they help or hurt a car's dyno and acceleration relative to the stock 17x7 OEM wheels.

Nashau, I clearly stated that I thought the actuator was NOT a problem from the look of the curve...

Oh, and thanks for the before and after list with the clear bra, etc... I think you would have gotten about 10 more HP if you scraped the suffocating 3M plastic junk off the front of the car. That stuff just can let enough air though the “breathable” paint into the engine bay (and you thought that soft paint was a design defect)

 

I'll try to capture some data this weekend to see how much the ignition timing changes in one a car that sits for an hour after being driven. Then that same car after sitting for three hours. I'll make some CSVs of it and post them.

BTW, not trying to take anything away Nashua Just trying to determine the source of the lower than expected baseline. Because IMO, it ended up right where I would expect it to be; where the Comptech headers hit. There is no discernable difference between the two designs; there should be little to no difference in the output.

Additionally, did you see if the battery was disconnected??

 

Comments/elaboration on test(s)?

 

i guess this is what happens when u Wang it!

hehe

jk

 

Nashua i was wondering if you have pics of the headers in your engine..
?

 

Daymn, I hope these things get CARB'd.......

 

How bad can things be if us Californians get them and they are not approved? We don't have to get smog checks until the 6th year...and when we do get tested and they look at the headers, how do they konw if it's not CARB approved or not...sticker or imprint?

Because i don't really anticipate on getting pulled over by a cop and being asked to pop my hood.

 

for now all pics are here: http://www.flwse.com/images/nashua/

 

Basically just wanting to see the affects of heat soak and cool down on ignition timing advance. I have been curious about this anyway so might as well test it out using my OBD-2 Scan Tool software, which does work on the 6-Speed.

I was worried about it not working since it should but doesn't on my wife's BMW. But it reads and logs just fine.

What I will be looking for is the relationship of the Ignition Advance to the ECT and IAT. I'll also capture the MAP value since it might play a small part in the equation. But I want to view the changes of the advance as the ECT and IAT values change. I'm curious how much of an impact there is considering one degree can mean 1 - 2 HP depending on the application.

The one area I can’t see is KR. But for this I will assume that since I am running 93 octane, there will not be any.

 

18" Konig Imagines usually weigh about 24-25lbs per wheel.

 

so is it straight up 500$??? that looks great...im in...Shyne

 

I'm sure a lot of people have non-approved mods and "get away" with it...

OTOH, they do have roadside checks and you never know when you get pulled over by one of them (they can be pretty sneaky on where they put them. I also KNOW that they watch for cars pulling off on side roads before the checkpoints and could tell you a funny story about a road side check and a drunk checkpoint where people took the right before the blockade ahead). They will pull over a car that is less than 5-years only and I had an experience in the "old days" where they had a pretty thorough look under my hood.

So, will it happen -- who knows?

There is a "central" registry for parts and they do know what parts are CARB approved and the Comptech headers have a metal stamped plate on them. There are very few factory-stock cars with SS headers. I dropped by some mechanics that are also smog testers. They immediately noticed the headers and said they wouldn't touch the car if there wasn't an EO number on the headers and CAI.

So, that is only one experience and in no way reflects on ALL experiences and/or outcomes. However, I was surprised and glad that I had the EO numbers for the intake and headers in clear view...

What can or will happen is very "random"....

 

how much is this the obx headers going for?

 

$400 shipped - on the AV6 forum you better hurry, it ends at the end of the month

 

What ever happened to the other guy who was supposed to post a dyno of OBX headers on a stock CL-S?

 

my car dynoed same as yours 225hp 194 tork

 

I was jus wondering since u have tha obx headers... has it givin n e problems... which 1 u think would be better obx or comtech please let me know what u think

 

pictures no longer work

 

Nod, i was wondering -- does anyone have any graphs of dynos of before and after with either CT or OBX headers, and nothing else (AEM intake or something would be ok too).

I'm trying to dig up before & after graphs for headers in the search, and all the pictures are gone or expired...

- Mark

 

if there is a group buy for under 300 possibly count me in, da only problem is making sure my dad doesnt find out, he thinks i drive to fast!!!!!!

 

damn i need to go around dyno my car sometime

 

You have obx headers installed?> Are the comptech way better?> Which would you recommend? Thanks David

 

Most of the the guys that posted in this thread dont come on this site any more. But to answer your question. I have the megen headers that are pritty much the same as the OBX, it has pritty good gains. But has alot of hissing noise from it (resence)(i think is how you spell it) All i hear are good things about Comptech so you can go wrong with them but the price.