Well it's finally come down to it where I can't stand my brakes any more. I vibrate like crazy, and it's just driving me nuts. Anyways, here's the deal. I would like to spend no more than around $400, including installation. I've done so much reading on this, it's unbearable. However, I haven't come to a good conclusion. Now, I know that our car does a MAJORITY of the braking up front. Here are my questions:

1) Would I be ok just ordering the Rotora rotors up front and some pads (such as the EBC's), and skip getting new rotors in the rear? Thing is, I got new pads in October for the rear, and last time I checked, I had like 70% up front and 90% in the back on the pads. What do you guys suggest I do? F/R rotors with F/R pads? Front rotors with F/R pads? Front rotors with Front pads only?

2) Which pads would you guys suggest? It looks as though I'm gonna stray away from the Axxis pads, becuase of all the complaints.

3) Is there a point to order the CT SS brake lines if I only replace the front brakes?

Any help here would be GREATLY appreciated. I plan on ordering new brakes by TOMORROW! Oh also, how much will it cost me to get all this shit installed? Thanks fellas!

`John

 

any help?? please???

 

i swaped my dad's camry (beater) with brembo blanks and ebc green stuff. imo i think these pads are great and worth every penny. O and you should consider doing the replacment urself, cause it was pretty straight forward and u get to save $$

 

1. There is nothing wrong with just replacing thre front rotors. They do most of the stopping power anyway.

2. I personally like the Axxis Ultimates, BUT they create a lot of dust (which sucks). But they bite very well. Look into either the stock pads or EBC (they create a lot of heat and are known to warp rotors though).

3. SS brake lines will increase your pedal feel. You CAN change your lines out if you want. There's always a performance upgrade there. Personally, I think the lines are put to better use with a BBK. My other car has SS lines all around on a stock brake setup, there was barely any difference if any.

What you can do also is change out the fluid. Makes a big difference in some areas.

 

I don't want to take away from the thread too much, but I'm actually having a brake issue myself and can't find anything else in the forums that relate to my exact problem. I've got an '01 CL-S with 107k miles. For the past 10k miles or so I've noticed the brakes becoming "mushier", the pads are in great shape and I had the rotors turned about 20k miles ago (they were warped). Just in the past 6 months, the brakes have become far less responsive. Is this normal? I took it to the dealer and they didn't notice anything wrong, but I sure as hell do. I'ts like Im driving a '89 Buick.

 

Its your Brake Fluid. It needs to be replace about every 3yrs. After time the fluid is exposed to heat and moisture and you get a mushy pedal feel.

As for choice of pads. I went for Akebono Ceramics and should get them installed in 2-3 weeks. I have heard they are easy on rotors, have better bite and reduced fade with little noise or dust.

 

wow, look at the responses just FLOWING in!!!

I always seem to have a lack of feedback in my threads, and can never figure it out. I've seen noobies posting threads like this getting crazy responses, and mind, well, it's a crying shame I've gotten only 2 people even TRYING to help, with one really good response. Thank you Dustin and bobbydoe. However, I need more opinions and support. My brakes are REALLY shuddering bad now, and I need them fixed PRONTO. Please please please, help

`John

 

<<<Brembo drilled and Slotted.



I like um!

 

rotor f/r and napa ceramixs great price ,no noise,no dust

 

Well getting the F/R - Roto Tech Cross Drilled / Slotted Rotors, with the Hawks HP Plus next week... I wanted to post earlier but decided not to, since a review would be nice to go with it... If you can wait till next wednesday I'll have pics, and an quick reivew with a follow up review on them...

 

I trying to change the rotors on a 97 CL and can not get the spindle nut off to remove the rotors. IS there something I am missing in trying to remove this nut??? I broke a 1/2 extension bar and a 1/2 ratchet trying so far!!!

If anyone can post the steps in removing the rotors I would appeciate it.

Thank You

 

Did you remove the retaining screw(s)?

 

@ napa ceramics, they warped my rotors with less than 10k....

 

spindel nut?? if your rotors are simialr to the 2nd gen, (i think they are) ther is no nut to remove, that nut in the middle is to remove the axel.... there is a huge philps head screw on the rotor near the lugs, loosen that (then remove the caliper ) and the rotor comes right off

 

i posted this a while ago, hope it helps u guys out
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=193049

a vid tutorial on how to do it on a rsx, should be similar for the cl/tl.

credit to Jpax form clubrsx for makign this tutorial

 

On the 97 CL I have a plate that hold the LUG nuts in front of the rotor. The plate is held in place against the rotor with 4 blots that I removed. When I removed those 4 bolts the rotor spun freely behind the lug plate. But I could not remove the lug plate. I tried removing the axel nut to get this plate off.

I don;t recall seeing any large phillps screw.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.

 

do not get axxis ultimates... too much dust and they squeak

 

i have no idea what would be good for pads as so far hawks are the only ones i have experienced... dont get them!
finally, i recommend you get the brembo blanks or rotora blanks. many aftermarket brakes that are drilled become weak around the drill points and will eventually crack and create squeaking noises.
ex: my friend has cobra brakes on his mustang, when he first put the whole thing on, he got powerslot drilled and slotted rotors with hawk pads. the car would squeak unbearably. finally, he replaced them with blank rotors and it is much quieter.

though his didnt crack, mine have! only get drilled brakes when a) you know the brakes will rarely overheat and fade
b)when the come that way from a respectable company such as brembo

since a can not be cured very easily, i would say that you should completely stay away from drilled rotors.
get the brembo blanks for 110 shipped. Buy some pads for the front for less than 100. You can have this all installed for under 250!

 

Ahhhhhhhhhhhh damnt people, I'm going insane. I'm ordering the Rotora Slotted rotors for up front. But now I'm stuck in a bind about choosing the pads. I've heard the following:

Axxis Ultimates - great bite, but lots of dust, and some people say they squeal??? WTF?

EBC Greenstuff - decent bite, but ruin the life of the rotors

Akebono - haven't heard much?

Satisfied Pro Ceramic - haven't heard much?

Hawk - I heard they suck

AEM - haven't heard shit


I would go w/ the Ultimates because I GUESS I could deal with the dust, but I don't want any damn squealing. I would PREFER a pad with not ALOT of dust. Are the Akebono's the stock pads? Would those work with the Rotoras? Because if so, I'm thinking of just doing that, so I don't have to deal w/ the bullshit. Any suggestions?!?! I need to order pads by tomorrow!! Thanks.

`John

 

John,
My Axis Ultimates do not squeal (you have to prep them properly).... but DAMN they create A LOT of dust.

Don't got for EBC, you'll end up with warped rotors.

Honestly, if you want no dust and good stopping power.... OEM pads are very very good.

 

Thanks Dustin...

Are the OEM pads the Akebono's that you can buy off of Tirerack.com? Or where would I be able to buy those? Also, the stock pads will work fine w/ the Rotora Slotted rotors? Oh, do I need to get new brake fluid, or is that not necessary?

As for the brakes, I think I'm going to have a local shop install them. I don't trust myself doing the work. I hope I don't get ass-rammed on the pricing.

 

how do you prep the Axxis? I had them on and they squeaked from the moment I started braking.

 

Believe it or not, I washed my rotors and pads BEFORE installing them. I also applied a layer of No-Squeal to the back of the pads. No squealing ever noted...

The OEM pads you can get at the dealership, they're not that expensive actually and most places have the same price.

As far as fluid, you CAN change it if you want. I believe it's every 3 years on our cars. Cleaner fluid allows better braking all-around. It's always nice to start fresh. I recommend a synthetic like Motul 5.1.... although you may not track the car, I know you live near the canyons so a slightly higher boiling point will allow less fade during your spirited driving, plus they have less affinity for water in the lines.

Good luck!

 

I replaced my rotors and pads about a year ago with the Rotora slotted and Axxis Deluxe Plus pads. I also flushed my brake system and filled with Vavoline synthetic brake fluid. I choose the Axxis Deluxe Plus pads because, I wanted a good pad, better than OEM, rotor friendly, and with minimial dusting. These pads have fit the bill and I have not had any squeaking. I got my Rotora rotors from www.streetbeatcustoms.com

Check this site out for a Axxis brake pad comparison.
http://www.zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm

For brake fluid comparisons:
http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900F...Comparison.htm

 

I washed my rotors and but I didn't wash my pads.

Is it difficult to replace the brake fluid?

 

I got Brembo Blanks and Akebano pads, so far its very good. Quiet and nice.

 

does anyone know if the Akebono pads are the stock pads or if they're different???

 

They are different.

 

i have hawk hp pads in the front and tehy gave a bit better of a bite and dont destroy stock rotors...one of my friends knows someone on his forum that makes rotors for all cars and trucks...they are only 110 a pair for our cars- 01and up cl- they can be drilled,slotted or both

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33567

found this on e-bay... not sure what to think...

 

They are different pads. The Akebono's have better bite and fade resistance then the stock pads. They aren't as fade resistant as the Hawk HPS pads but a definite improvement over the stock pads. Never had any experience with Greenstuff pads.

 

Not difficult, just a PITA.

 

I'm kinda torn between the stocks or the Akebono's? What do you guys think?

 

I personally think Akebono's are better, I have them and like them. They supposed to be more rotor friendly and longer pads life. One thing about them, is that they will fill a bit softer than stock pads, yet they do a very good job at stoping your car. I dont have any problems with that, but for someone feeling of "soft" peddal might not be a good thing.

 

So it looks like I ended up going w/ the Akebono Pro-ACT Ceramic pads with the front Rotora slotted rotors. Hopefullly I'll be getting the rotors in this week and I'll let you guys know how it works out. When I get them installed, do you think I should get new brake fluid as well? Also, should I ask the installers to clean the rotors/pads and put that No-Squeal shit on? Thanks

 

You can clean the rotors yourself when you get them. The no-squeel can be bought by you for $2, just give it to your installers. Might as well bleed the brakes too since everything is getting replaced.

Good choice on the ceramic pads, ceramic pads are known for low dusting and decrease sound. Though some argue the performance of ceramic pads, I think it is negligable on a street driven car.

 

coo coo, thanks Dustin

How do I go about cleaning the pads and rotors? Just soap & water, or what? And how much is that Motul 5.1 shit and where can I get it? I went to 2 autozones today, and one Pep Boys, and neither had it!!

 

when you guys say 'wash', did you scrub with soap and water or you sprayed them down with brake cleaner spray?

thanks.