Yesterdays MOD!
05-10-2004, 06:39 AM
#41
Doin' da crack shuffle
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Originally posted by G-UNIT
clpower, so its not worth it to try em out? As long as he does a good job himself, would it perform like the "Real" ones?
clpower, so its not worth it to try em out? As long as he does a good job himself, would it perform like the "Real" ones?
05-10-2004, 06:51 AM
#43
GEEZER
Thread Starter
G-UNIT: Are the blanks that get slotted or drilled Brembo's???? 
05-10-2004, 06:59 AM
#45
GEEZER
Thread Starter
My point is this. Why buy something with no proven track record. Brembos perform well and I have yet to hear about any of the type I purchased having warping issues.
Like most everything in life, ya get what ya pay for. I choose not to cut corners on brakes.
Like most everything in life, ya get what ya pay for. I choose not to cut corners on brakes.
05-10-2004, 07:13 AM
#47
Find beauty in dissonance
Originally posted by mrsteve
If you want something cheaper than the Brembos try the Rotoras. They aren't drilled but still they are a great deal.
If you want something cheaper than the Brembos try the Rotoras. They aren't drilled but still they are a great deal.
Looks nice killer.
05-10-2004, 07:16 AM
#48
GEEZER
Thread Starter
Originally posted by G-UNIT
true dat.....
I guess ill save up a bit more! How was the installation?
true dat.....
I guess ill save up a bit more! How was the installation?
and thanks Bluto!
05-10-2004, 07:36 AM
#49
Find beauty in dissonance
Where your brakes warped or noisy?
I have 56k on mine, all stock, no problems. I plan to get out the micrometer out this weekend. I can't belive they've lasted this long.
Did you get the pads online, or local?
I have 56k on mine, all stock, no problems. I plan to get out the micrometer out this weekend. I can't belive they've lasted this long.
Did you get the pads online, or local?
05-10-2004, 07:53 AM
#50
GEEZER
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Bluto
Where your brakes warped or noisy?
I have 56k on mine, all stock, no problems. I plan to get out the micrometer out this weekend. I can't belive they've lasted this long.
Did you get the pads online, or local?
Where your brakes warped or noisy?
I have 56k on mine, all stock, no problems. I plan to get out the micrometer out this weekend. I can't belive they've lasted this long.
Did you get the pads online, or local?
My CLs has 38k now and I wanted to replace the brakes...decided I would do the rotors too. Got my pads from the dealer.
05-10-2004, 08:51 AM
#51
Burning Brakes
Originally posted by Bluto
I think the Rotora are sold individually, $250 for the front pair.
Looks nice killer.
I think the Rotora are sold individually, $250 for the front pair.
Looks nice killer.
You can get the Rotora slotted front pair for ~$170 (free shipping)
from http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com/rot168400460-d2.html.
Installed all four on my TL-S about 10 days ago.
05-10-2004, 10:58 AM
#53
Doin' da crack shuffle
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Originally posted by 1killercls
My point is this. Why buy something with no proven track record. Brembos perform well and I have yet to hear about any of the type I purchased having warping issues.
Like most everything in life, ya get what ya pay for. I choose not to cut corners on brakes.
My point is this. Why buy something with no proven track record. Brembos perform well and I have yet to hear about any of the type I purchased having warping issues.
Like most everything in life, ya get what ya pay for. I choose not to cut corners on brakes.
05-10-2004, 11:04 AM
#54
GEEZER
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Zapata
1killercls,
observations on performance? Acceleration as the rotors must be much lighter than stock.
1killercls,
observations on performance? Acceleration as the rotors must be much lighter than stock.
05-10-2004, 11:17 AM
#55
teh Senior Instigator
Join Date: Sep 2000
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Originally posted by G-UNIT
clpower, so its not worth it to try em out? As long as he does a good job himself, would it perform like the "Real" ones?
thx...i think rotors are my next mod...
clpower, so its not worth it to try em out? As long as he does a good job himself, would it perform like the "Real" ones?
thx...i think rotors are my next mod...
brembo doesn't make real slotted and cross drilled for these cars. The guy does them himself. Not saying they aren't good, I'd just rather buy straight blanks.
unless something has changed and i'm mistaken and these things are now comming from brembo slotted and drilled and not just blanks like the use to be
and guys if you are interested i'm sure you can get in on this group buy we've been having
http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...hreadid=128713
05-10-2004, 11:20 AM
#56
teh Senior Instigator
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Originally posted by 1killercls
Meh.
Meh.
http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...sort=3&rows=50
05-10-2004, 03:59 PM
#57
Drifting
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Unichip, Blader:
#1. I wouldn't charge you anything. I have the equipment at work and I get my powder coatings for free as samples.
I haven't done any rotors yet, but I did Smittys calipers, and he loves them.
You pay shipping, both ways. You take your parts to UPS, get them shipped to me AND include ANOTHER UPS label for me to return to you when I am done.
There are certain rules. The parts must be as clean as possible, down to white metal. Sandblasting usually is fine for these parts.
Smitty went the extra mile and sanded his calipers to a very smooth condition, and boy did that pay off! It was my suggestion.
Painting, especially powder coatings is very damn easy, the WORK is in the preperation, and you're the guys who get to do that.
#2. Downtime. Lets assume you want me to powder coat brand new rotors, and your existing calipers that you have cleaned to the max.
Rotors. Assuming there is some form of rust preventative, grease or a mist of oil, start to finish, I can be done with these in 3 hours or so. My actual "work", would consist of all of about 15 minutes for two rotors. Where the wheel meets the rotor, that area would be masked to prevent "wobble". Only I can do the masking; special shit is required, and I have it. And BTW, no threaded studs please. Just hammer or push them out. If I paint them, your wheels will not remount.
A unique thing about powder coatings is that they have a self limiting maximum thickness. Usually about .003" or so. It has to do with electricity, and trust me, you do not want to know why. But I know how to bypass this.
The powder coating generally melt at about 150 F, so, if I heat the object to be coated to say 250 F, I can put on ten mils or so (.010") of powder paint by melting it on. Within reason, the more paint you put on, the orange peel effect of the paint gets minimized. The powder coating needs to be cured at 400F for about 10 minutes AFTER THE PART GETS TO 400F. I want more than the standard three mils or so, because the area of the car lives in a pretty nasty environment. And BTW, I know how to pick the best powder coatings for corrosion resistance, sunlight fade, etc. Don't worry about that. I know my paint.
These are "massy" parts, and that is the reason for 3 hours. It takes time to get the heat into the rotor, and it takes just as long to get it out.
Calipers: This gets a little more complicated. Basically, we want no powder coating at all where the brake shoes have to slide of "float", so there is some masking to be done, but generally, it is not that bad. I can do four calipers in about four hours or so.
So the grand answer is if I get them by UPS Monday at 10 a.m, you can count on them going out by 3 p.m. Tuesday.
Be forwarned, if you want me to do the rotors, they will be completely painted except for the wheel/rotor contact area. It is way to difficult to mask off the area swept by the brake puck.
Your pads will burn that off, and burned powder coatings do NOT smell good at all, but that is a five minute thing. One time, and it is over.
I don't forsee a problem here, but you might want to take on this endavor when you are very close to putting new pads on.
Save the old pads. Let me paint the rotors. Put on the rotors with the OLD pads and scrub the paint off. Discard old pads and put on new.
And remember! Drive carefully. These are highly engineered plastic coatings and can be very slick.
I forsee no safety problems as long as common sense is involved here.
#1. I wouldn't charge you anything. I have the equipment at work and I get my powder coatings for free as samples.
I haven't done any rotors yet, but I did Smittys calipers, and he loves them.
You pay shipping, both ways. You take your parts to UPS, get them shipped to me AND include ANOTHER UPS label for me to return to you when I am done.
There are certain rules. The parts must be as clean as possible, down to white metal. Sandblasting usually is fine for these parts.
Smitty went the extra mile and sanded his calipers to a very smooth condition, and boy did that pay off! It was my suggestion.
Painting, especially powder coatings is very damn easy, the WORK is in the preperation, and you're the guys who get to do that.
#2. Downtime. Lets assume you want me to powder coat brand new rotors, and your existing calipers that you have cleaned to the max.
Rotors. Assuming there is some form of rust preventative, grease or a mist of oil, start to finish, I can be done with these in 3 hours or so. My actual "work", would consist of all of about 15 minutes for two rotors. Where the wheel meets the rotor, that area would be masked to prevent "wobble". Only I can do the masking; special shit is required, and I have it. And BTW, no threaded studs please. Just hammer or push them out. If I paint them, your wheels will not remount.
A unique thing about powder coatings is that they have a self limiting maximum thickness. Usually about .003" or so. It has to do with electricity, and trust me, you do not want to know why. But I know how to bypass this.
The powder coating generally melt at about 150 F, so, if I heat the object to be coated to say 250 F, I can put on ten mils or so (.010") of powder paint by melting it on. Within reason, the more paint you put on, the orange peel effect of the paint gets minimized. The powder coating needs to be cured at 400F for about 10 minutes AFTER THE PART GETS TO 400F. I want more than the standard three mils or so, because the area of the car lives in a pretty nasty environment. And BTW, I know how to pick the best powder coatings for corrosion resistance, sunlight fade, etc. Don't worry about that. I know my paint.
These are "massy" parts, and that is the reason for 3 hours. It takes time to get the heat into the rotor, and it takes just as long to get it out.
Calipers: This gets a little more complicated. Basically, we want no powder coating at all where the brake shoes have to slide of "float", so there is some masking to be done, but generally, it is not that bad. I can do four calipers in about four hours or so.
So the grand answer is if I get them by UPS Monday at 10 a.m, you can count on them going out by 3 p.m. Tuesday.
Be forwarned, if you want me to do the rotors, they will be completely painted except for the wheel/rotor contact area. It is way to difficult to mask off the area swept by the brake puck.
Your pads will burn that off, and burned powder coatings do NOT smell good at all, but that is a five minute thing. One time, and it is over.
I don't forsee a problem here, but you might want to take on this endavor when you are very close to putting new pads on.
Save the old pads. Let me paint the rotors. Put on the rotors with the OLD pads and scrub the paint off. Discard old pads and put on new.
And remember! Drive carefully. These are highly engineered plastic coatings and can be very slick.
I forsee no safety problems as long as common sense is involved here.
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