i was change out summer to winter wheels this weekend . while removing lugs, i found the mcgard (anti-theft) lug on each of the rears was only finger tight!!! (the last time i had the summers to winters done by the dealer while in for service)
obviously not tightened in sequence and torqued properly.
i checked for warp or cracked wheels , nothing apparent ,
fronts were all torqued correctly.
this is so irresponsible and if i had a wheel failure due to this , no way to prove their culpability.
lesson: Do Not trust your dealership in matters of safety (brakes, wheels, suspension,tire pressure, fluid levels, etc.) CHECK EVERYTHING

 

ur suposed to tighten the wheels .. drive a lil and then re tighten once more .. then good to go!!

 

I believe its 80 or 88 lbs of TQ.

 

It's 80 ft/lbs of torque.

 

the idea of retorqueing after install of exhaust components makes sense. dont see the need on lug nuts. torqueing in proper cross pattern sequence and progressive... say 50/65/80 is noted in the manual (nothing about retorquing ), as another trip to the installer after a week? of driving, i dont think so

 

well i was told proper torqueing of lug nuts can prevent problems like warper rotors. That enough made me do it.

 

So, you believe that people at dealerships don't make mistakes?

Pretty easy to check torque specs vs. having a wheel fly off at high speeds...

 

Yeah, your surposed to torque 'em progressively, and use a torque wrench (or speed stick), but some places have techs that just go nuts with the impact wrench.

Oh, check the tire pressure while you're at it... It's getting colder out...

 

Warped rotors, broken stud, and wheels flying off when you're on the highway are all of many good reasons to torque lug nuts to proper spec.

 

ya....i used a impact wrech to rotate my tires and such and change my back rotors...when i put it all back together about a week later my steering wheel started shakin like crazy during light braking...im guessin i warped the suckers

 

You may have also damaged the hub, which is actually worse than damaging the brake rotors.

 

No one is saying that, dealerships make mistakes all the time. And thats the bullshit surrounding them...they overcharge you for shoddy work at best just so you can say your car is still under warranty. One lug loose on one wheel, could possibly seen as just a small mistake overlooked by a busy mechanic at the dealer. But both locking lugs on both rear wheels is bullshit and unacceptable.

 

No one is saying take it back to the dealer... We are speaking of doing the re-torquing YOURSELF. No cost involved & it takes 5 minutes to check the nuts.

It's the least you can do for your own safety. Torque wrench costs like $50 for a cheap one & it'll last you for years.

And if anyone has ever bought aftermarket rims, it's very clear in the documentation that comes with the rims...'re-torque after 100 miles'.

 

to all,
my post pointed out a latent problem i see more and more often. shoddy workmanship.
chris3240929,
i both agree AND disagree with you
post #5 was a response in a general sense that, the average public DEPENDS upon auto mechanics for life safety work on their cars. specifically,i would say 95% of that public does know a tq wrench from broomstick and should expect at a minimum, professional care taken during maintenance visits.
i do have a tq wrench and admit that i did not check the dealers tire rotation work last spring. since posting i've noticed vibration in the rear of the vehicle at 50-60& 80+ speeds. i suspect rear rotors may now have minor warp. definately pissed.... both at them and myself (for not checking their work)

 

Your wheel will not fall off from the lack of 1 untighten'd lug nut of each wheel. Same thing could happen at any shop not just a dealer. I always re tq my lugs after getting my tires rotated, or any work that involves taking the wheel off.

 

Agreed, could happen anywhere not just a dealer and I was using a rather extreme example with one lug...But, point taken.