I'm getting tired of putting my car in the hands of my dealer to do my oil changes, they rip me off and im convince their not doing anything else but FUCKING my car up or making excuses for doing nothing when i leave it there...

so time to start doing it on my own.


went and picked up another case of Mobil 1 SuperSyn 5W-30 and a Mobil 1 filter today....


I'm wondering who else changes their own oil? I don't know why I havent been doing it all along... in fact... ive never changed my CLs oil...

It is just too easy to not do and Acura charges way too much. (their probably saving my Mobil 1 for themselves and putting in some crap anyway )

 

it's easy and satisfying. i've never let anyone else do it. + it's too expensive to have a shop do it w/ synthetic.


changing your own oil is teh anti-:ghey:

 

i have never done oil change for my cls by myself yet..but i do oil change on my jeep by myself every 3000 miles..and it is a piece of cake as my jeep is high enought for me to sneak under it without any jacking up...and oil filter is in the engine bay too..very easy to do..and saves me a lot of money..
but for cls..i am trying to oil change it myself as i need to jack up the cls and i figure it is kind of complicated as it is a new car to me and more electronic stuff... in fact...u need to tighten the darin screw by some certain of pounds force...and i figure oil filter is under the car too. my cls is about time to do another oil change..lol i am still hestitate to do it by myself or not...

 

Type S, changing the oil on the cl is a piece of cake. you do have to jack up the car or use ramps. in mine or soopa's case we have to drive up on blocks to be able to get a jack under the car. it's hard being hammered.

 

hehe yep. i have a low profile floor jack, shit is like 1.5 tall... and i still cant get under there in the front

 

they have low profile jacks? I need one cause I hate trying to get under my car.

 

I've always changed the oil in all my cars, including my Acura. It's about the only thing you can do yourself to a car these days. 30 mins. or so and the job is done.

I just take my cars over to my Dads, as he has ramps that we just place in the garage and drive the cars up on.

The one thing I did notice, is the oil filter on this car is kind of a bitch to get at. Normally I can get a big wrench onto the area and unscrew the focker, but it's a tight squeeze on this car. It's still not a big deal though...

 

Soopa,
Remember you need that crush washer as well!!!!!

 

You guys are dorks!

Fuck the jacks, ramps, crush washers etc....

Just go get yourself a oil vacuum pump like this one:

http://www.griotsgarage.com/search.j...=23&search.y=7


You'll never have to crawl under your car again. Unless you are changing your oil filter too. (BMW oil filters are accessible from under the hood, so this product is perfect for me)

 

 

Here's a newsflash for ya:

Simply letting the oil drain out of the pan doesn't get the crud out of the bottom of the oil pan either. Vacuum pumps at least get MORE old oil out of the engine than just letting it all drain out. That's pretty much a proven fact.

Most quick-lube places around my aread suck the old oil out of the dipstick tube. Only dorks use the drain valve these days.

Step into the 21st century

A quick quote from Griot's Garage:


Tech Tip

A Japanese magazine (Automechanic, Nov. 1997 issue) tested our Oil Extractor to see if it would be able to withdraw more oil versus draining the oil using the "drain plug" method. Great news! The Oil Extractor was able to withdraw an additional 71ml of oil on a late model Toyota. Due to the ultra tight packaging of engine compartments these days, it seems manufacturers are locating the drain plug in areas that compromise complete oil drainage. You're gonna love changing your oil!

 

ya know... ive read griots garage on the shitter EVERYDAY for what seems like the past 5 years...

and im not sure i ever even noticed that product... lol


ordering one.

 

Okay, think of a vacumm cleaner for a minute. How does it work? It works when you put it in the area that needs to be sucked and it will suck in that area only. Now a oil/water vacumm will suck all the fluid out, but it won't get rid of any chunks or other items that are on the magnet, etc. Draining the oil when hot out the oil pan removes all of this. Doing it with a vacum does not. I will still do it the right away, not some new 20th century technology way. Also, vacumn does not get more oil out. Your oil is STILL DRIPPING from running the car, a vacumn will not remove that. It will only suck whats in the pan out.

 

Boy am I stupid! That's it, I'm throwing my oil extractor in the garbage can right now!

After all, vacuum cleaners ONLY vacuum where you put them

 

And here is another tip. Walmart has 5 quart jugs of Mobil 1 for $18. Can't beat that with a stick!

 

Not to sound like a tree hugger here. But where are you guys disposing of the used/dirty engine oil?

It's actually kinda expensive to take it to a treatment place. Otherwise I'd do it myself too. I change the oil in my jeepy myself. But I do it out at a buddys shop. And I only do it 1-2 times a year. max. (<3000 miles of use a year)

 

I just dump my old oil down the sewer by the curb.

Just kidding..... You can drop off your old oil to any gas station. In my area, they have to accept it. And it doens't cost YOU anything!

 

yea, walmart is THE SHIT for good Mobil 1 prices... problem is... their always out of the synthetic 5W-30

 

I've never changed my own oil before, but I was planning on starting next time, and using some Mobile 1. So what do I need to know to do this, any help would be appreciated.
Thanks-

 

its pretty straightforward, you need a wrench for the oil filter, and a socket for the oil pan bolt, i forget what size... i used what was closest... an 11/16 maybe.


put something to hold old oil under the oil pan (its marked "engine oil" right under the engine), take the bolt off (dont lose washer) let drain for minute or two, replace bolt... wipe off excess oil.


put whatever your using to hold oil under the oil filter (behind passenger side wheel) loosen filter with wrench by like half turn... then unscrew by hand... trying not to spill....

once you get it off just place it in with the old oil or toss it in the trash after you drain the oil out of it.


open a quart of the new oil, dip a finger in, rub it round the gasket on the new filter... and around the threads where the filter goes on the car... put new filter on (hand tighten) then tighten with wrench, doesnt need to be super tight... you need to be able to take it off next time


put 4.6 quarts into the engine, replace cap, turn car on, check for leaks while it runs for a few min. voila your done.

 

I do.

 

Better way to change your oil...

www.fumotovalve.com

Code "YM3" gets you 10% off.

CL/TL needs F-106 and an adapter for it to work. It will be around $35 after shipping.

 

it is almost same as fram sure drain.whihc cost about $14...but i am not sure if it is avaliabe for cls..but it is avaliable for my jeep and using the same kind of technique..do not need to unscrew the drain plug.. save a lot of time lol

 

 

Here in MA, any place that sells oil *must* accept used oil free of charge. I have one of those oil pans that captures about 15 qts at a time. When it's full, I just walk in and dump it right in the recycling container. They don't even ask to help me--I just walk right around behind the counter.

Changing your oil can get a little messy but it's cheap, easy, and you'll know it gets done right every time. Plus, while I'm underneath I like to visually inspect everything else. Like making sure CV boots aren't cracked or ripped, no leaks coming from anywhere, check out the roadkill stuck to the bottom......

 

Except for when its FREEZING Cold out.

Changing the Oil in the CL-S is Very Easy. The Filter is very close to the right front wheel. Takes NO time to get to, very accessible.

 

Put me down for changing my own oil and filter too. Actually, since I first learned to drive I've changed my own oil and filter. And that was 24 years and about 10 cars ago. Opps I just showed my age!

 

Also the price of $18 I saw was on tri synthetic which is a mix of petro oil and synthetic. Make sure you buy the Mobil1 "New?" synthetic which test specs say a pour rate at -54 which is not as good as the old Mobil1 synthetic of -65 (before the tri synthetic BS). Or just use the new Amsoil Series 2000 which has a pour rate at -78. I know nobody sees -54 or -78 but it means the chemical compostion is different and if mobil says it's good to be at -54 then -78 must be better. Note all temps are in C.

 

Yup... I change my own oil too!!

Redline 5w20 with a Mobil1 filter. It's easy to do and I don't trust the dealer and I definitely don't any of those quicky places. Hell... I change my fiance's oil and her car is a '94 Camry.

It only takes a little bit of time, and most of that time is waiting while it drains.

 

in NH, it's not only for FREE, but the mech guys are so nice, they take the oil container, dump the oil and wash the container for you for FREE. Can't beat that!

 

Would you call it changing it yourself if your friend does it for you at his job for free? My friend works for a Honda dealer and normally he will do it, or I will do it in his shop bay. He also does all the work on my car.

 

actually... im pretty sure the Tru-Syntehtic is full syntehtic...

this was the best available from Mobil 1 before SuperSyn came out... and SuperSyn replaced the Tri-Synthetic.


they still have the oil they call a "synthetic blend" which contains some petrol...

 

There is no regulations for the term "synthetic" it's like the words "All natural" on food. Mobil did change their formula and added petro oil (Lower cost) and called it tri-synthetic. They went to court and won on the word "synthetic" technicallity. Canada didn't fall for this BS and wouldn't let them sell "TRI" there with the full synthetic labal they put on it. Anyway they got caught and went back to a "Full Synthetic formula".

Here's some fun reading

http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/newsletter_1000.htm

 

hmm, so the shit i been puttin in my car this whole time wasnt full syntehtic?!?

fuckers. that shit aint cheap for it to be a blend.


whats the fucking point of having two products that are a blend?!?!

 

Other than the reason to stop being so dependent on foreign oil I don't see the point for synthetic at all. Unless an engine is going through some extreme conditions consumer reports says there is no advantage synthetic oil vs. dino oil. If I were in the middle of Texas with ambient air temp 125 degress and my radiator springs a leak with 100 miles to the next town I'd want synthetic in my crank case. However, for every day normal conditions I'll take the cheaper dino oil!

 

i been changing my own oil for 6 years now, along with everything else, the only thing i did not do was my clutch in my last car, my brother did that. he was a mechanic for ford so i learned alot from him.

 

I have 2 cars with 120k+ miles that I've used dino on. My first car had 250k miles on dino! The CL runs synth.

 

Tri-syn is a blend, so is the new one. Per oil tests we recently sent in the oil to have tested, its worse than Vavoline or Penzoils. Now Castrol Syntec is worse than its Castrol GTX! Go figure. The only real synthetic oils is Amsoil and Redline.

 

PLEASE READ THAT LINK CAREFULLY. BTW, AS I'VE SAID BEFORE, I CALLED MOBIL-1 and THEY SAID THE TRI-SYNTHETIC HAS NO DINO-LUBE. Hey, I like Amsol products too, but misinformation is not HELPFUL!

(So, what are they talking about when they say “BLEND”????)

(Amsol is talking about the Mobil 1 Blend that they sell -- and NOT the tri-synthetic). If you look, at the link you provided, you will see that they are referring to a blend. YOU KEEP saying "Mobil did change their formula and added petro oil (Lower cost) and called it tri-synthetic..."

THIS IS FALSE!


I'll let the readers have a look at the link that is on the very page that you provided that clearly states BY AMSOL (a Mobil competitor), that the Tri-synthetic is "synthetic" and that they [Amsol] came up with the technology first).

http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/letters2.htm

"Mobil Corporation is touting its new Mobil 1 Tri-Synthetic motor oil as the latest in synthetic engine oil technology."

AMSOIL's response? "Been there. Done that."

(So, I guess I can logically assume that Amsol also makes products that are dino-mixed, or if you read a bit farther it clearly shows that they say they did it first. Hey, here's their chance to say, "Hey, Mobil-1 Tri-Synthetic is fake oil and we have the goods and that's NOT what they are saying in the link above...)

Then, you've posted this same "falsehood" here about 3 or more times and I was initially so concerned that I called Mobil-1 and have called more than once to talk to the "engineers" there to ask if they were using a "blend". I also posted the link to the Tri-synthetic page (when it was still around) and it clearly stated that it was "pure"/"unblended" synthetic.

MOBIL BLENDED OIL IS NOT THE SAME AS TRI-SYNTHETIC

Here are two links to the news release from Mobil-oil on the release of their "Clean-drive Blend" on Februrary 20th:

http://www2.exxonmobil.com/Corporate..._nr_020200.asp

http://www.prnewswire.com/cgi-bin/mi...TE=Feb+2,+2000

You will notice that this is NOT TRI-SYNTHETIC -- and has NOTHING TO DO WITH IT. It also coincides with the February reference that Amsol put on its page.



Here are excerpts from you article (and this refers to Mobil putting out a “blend”, it doesn’t say “Tri-Synthetic”):

"Even ExxonMobil could not resist the appeal of competitive pricing. It released a new synthetic blend that combines PAO technology with a “high-quality conventional oil” in February."


"Mobil 1, whose PAO technology was one of the many trade secrets that changed hands during the merger between Exxon and Mobil, remains loyal to PAOs. However, even ExxonMobil could not resist the appeal of competitive pricing. It released a new synthetic blend that combines the PAO technology with a “high-quality conventional oil” in February of this year..."

THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT THE “various” flavors of dino-synthetic mix that Mobil sells and it is says “blend” right on the label! IT is NOT TRI-SYNTHETIC.

Here are the links and pictures of the “clean blend” vs. the synthetic:

Clean blend:
http://www.mobildriveclean.com/blend/index.jsp




Synthetic (just as “synthetic” as the last. It has better properties and so people assume that something is “funny”. By that same logic, if Acura beef’s up it J32 engines, I guess the previous engines were no good.)

 

Prove it -- if you can do so, I'll send the info along to the FTC and perhaps they will find the next Enron…


So, I hope this isn't a pour point logic argument, where various Amsol shills, have said, well if the pour point is lower, it must be a "blend". Oil properties have nothing to due with "labels" -- and it would be possible to make a "pure" synthetic that trashed an engine (it would be a BAD synthetic as opposed to a "blend").

The problem is saying, "the Tri-syn is a blend" -- you need to prove this.