Went to the track today. Best run was 15.1 @ 92 mph with a 2.2 60'. I have an Icebox as my only mod. I gate shifted each run. I was hoping for 14.8's

There was an EVO at the track still with Temp tags. The guy couldn't drive though. He pulled a 15.7.

An E55 was there and did a 12.3!!!! I was shocked as was everyone else who screamed "OHHHHHHHHHHHHH"

The biggest surprise was a PT Crusier who almost beat me. SHE ran a 15.3 and had me up until the 1000' mark where I pulled ahead

What did I do wrong!?!!? Shouldn't I be running high 14's?? I had 1/3 tank of gas.

 

maybe it's the new tranny
heh
Sux though, maybe some grippier tires. oops didn;t see the tires nevermind
I was going to go out to the track near me yesteday, but the damn humidity was so high, I was like no way.

 

Humidity was 75% temp was around 60. That probably hurt me alot right?? track is 300ft above sea level

 

how many runs did you get? were you taking the car all the way to the rev limiter?

 

I got about 6 runs. Every shift was at the redline. 6900 or 7000.

Oh and my reaction time for my best run was .596

 

you need headers bro.

 

The humidity definetly hurt you. so did the temp. but every single run I have ever gate shifted has been slower than when I just left it in D5 and let the computer do the work. I got a 14.8 on my 03 with just AEM. I ran 15.1 stock. and did you pull out the jack\spare\tools?

 

I left the spare, jack, etc in the car. Every run I gate shifted. I never tried D5 or SS.

 

jack/spare/tools...DON'T DO DICK!!!!Leave em alone
Ga2000 ran a 14.6 w/ just an AEM in an auto cl-s while gate shifting!!
Humidity def. hurt you alot
You had 93 octane right???
What was ur tire pressure???
Also do you get on the car alot while not at the track...if you baby it and never floor it...when you do...the ecu will think ur trying to pass a truck or something and won't work to it's fullest capacity. Your ecu will adapt and learn ur driving style and make provisions to give u what u want when u want it.

 

I drive pretty hard on a daily basis.
My tire pressure was 22 or 23 psi.
93 octane of course

Hopefully next weekend's humidity will be lower.

 

maybe its elevation thats killing you?

 

The track is only 300 feet above sea level.


With a reaction time of .596 and a 2.25 60' time. What should I have been running at the end of the 1/4 mile?

 

you say you gate shift..? do you take it as deep as possible...sometimes do you bump the rev limiter...to achieve max results you must go right up to fuel cut ,but if you hit it , your times will suffer worse than if you shifted early

 

I never hit the limiter. But each shift happened with the tach in the redline...somewhere around 6900-7100 rpm.

 

elavation at 300ft. will only help you ,

 

not compared to sea level

 

Mr. Steve I live in Crofton and decided not to go to Capital today as it was too warm and humid. I hope to see you there on a cooler drier day and we'll be in the 14's. Go with an 1/8th of a tank of gas and EVERYTHING out of the car. Drop that front tire pressure to 25 and you'll do it. Sounds to me like your driving is OK. Remember, R/T does not effect ET. If two equal cars race the winner is determined by R/T time, which is recorded to let you know how close to green you left. When you drag race, it's kinda like you race two races!. Hope to see you up there...I'm waiting for 40 degrees! Headers would be your biggest ET gainer.

 

I plan on being their next weekend too. I got 4 runs in between 12 and 1230. Then I had to wait for 2 hours to get in 3 more runs. It got pretty crowded and there was a wreck and a break down so that tied things up a little. I don't want to totally strip the car down (ie spare, rear seat, etc) I just want to see what i'll do the same as I would everyday on the street.

 

mrsteve,

Here is you answer:

First, Did you check your IMRC actuator? if it was busted, then your CLS==CLP!.

Second, if you post your timeslips we can help you more.

Third, from your run: 15.1 @ 92 mph with a 2.25 60', R/T .596s.

A) Your 60' time is EXCELLENT. It means you have almost no loss of traction. Have you tried brake torque up to 2000 rpms?
B) From your low R/T .596s and you low trap speed, It seems that you were DEEP staging, which means that you rollout will very close to minimun of 7". With deep stage you lose top end trap speed, and you will have high ET, you gain very low R/T. on the other hand, if you shallow stage with rollout as much as a maximun of 12", you can gain as much as 5-7 MPH and shave as much as 0.45-0.5sec in the 1/4 mile.

So, in your case, your run could be as fast as 14.65 @ 97 mph with a 2.25 60'.

It is really a simple drag racing 101.

some rollout info is found here: http://www.mrdyno.com/MRDyno_FAQ_01.htm#Q05

 

Eh... Nash - you will NOT gain 5-7 MPH... are you kidding me? A 0.5 to 1.5mph gain is possible for cars with similar power to ours - that's it!

 

allmotor_2000,

I am not guessing, I did couple 0-60 runs with my Gtech Competition to have an idea about the effect of rollout with our CLS.

I have test run file with 2.91 06' time. The rollout was set at 12", the elapse time before the rollout is over (leaving the staging beam) was 0.461s and the rolling speed of 3.25 MPH.

With a more agressive launch, 60' time of 2.1-2.2s you would expect higher rolling speed after leaving the staging beams.

Nashua.

Note, if you are interested, I can email the Gtech test run files and you can download the FREE Gtech Software here: http://www.gtechpro.com/SWdownloads.html

 

Nash... not disagreeing with your concept - you are correct there. It's just that you can't compare GTECH #'s to real drag-strip #'s

 

IMRC actuator?? what do I do there?

Time slips for my best 2 runs:

R/T... .596
60'... 2.249
330... 6.405
1/8... 9.773
MPH... 73.60
1000... 12.690
1/4... 15.173
MPH... 91.32

R/T... .957
60'... 2.251
330... 6.401
1/8... 9.761
MPH... 73.65
1000... 12.660
1/4... 15.131
MPH... 92.05

Pretty consistant huh?

 

I JUST got my IceBox installed Saturday afternoon and only drove from the dealership to home, and then home to the track since then. (Maybe 40 miles) Could that be the reason?? My car hasn't had time to adjust? The dealer def. disconnected the battery and I had to enter my radio code when I picked up my car.

 

IMRC: http://www.geocities.com/~gamesmgr/chod/acura/#Driving6

and here: http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...highlight=IMRC

It seems that you are losing power at the top end.

 

Explain this "deep staging" thing to me. If I am "deep" does that mean I line up closer to the finish? And if I am "shallow" I'm closer to the start? I'm assuming the farther I pull into the staging the "deeper" I am? Which way is better, deeper or shallower??

 

I checked the IMRC today. It doesn't open!!! I guess that would explain ALOT.

Now is this a common thing to go wrong? I recently had the tranny replaced and an IceBox installed. Could this have caused the IMRC to fail?

 

No, those would not cause the actuator to fail. It isn't unheard of to fail.

Back three years ago when I uncovered this potential issue it was unheard of and difficult to get the dealer to look at it. But thankfully they listened to my story and fixed the actuator. From then on we knew what to look for and many others then determined theirs too was faulty.

Here is what the dyno looks like with a faulty actuator. The torque should dip down at about 3800 revs by about 5 lb/ft and then within a few hundred revs, climb back up to where it was before dropping. Instead, it dropped out and stayed down all the way till the end. I had a loss of about 20 lb/ft between 4k and 6k revs and about 10lb/ft after that. This can certainly make a huge difference in trap speed and 1320' ET.

BTW, this dyno helped me uncover the issue along with reading through the Helms manual.

 

That dyno looks like a before and after from an air intake install. Is that the one you meant to post?


I have an appointment with Tischer Acura tomorrow. One tech there is somewhat familiar with the problem and will look at it when I drop it off.

 

That is a before and after for an intake installation. But they were done within fifteen minutes of one another and both are with a faulty IMRC actuator. The absolute values for this dyno run were what lead me to investigate this unusual torque curve and subsequently uncover the failed actuator.

 

With a properly opperating actuator, what should the HP and TQ #'s be?

 

This is not going to be "dead on" (quite an understatement) since the link is to a manual with no headers (but with intake and light wheels). It should give you a good idea of the "general" look of the torque curve. The dyno is for a manual, so the auto's graph would basically just be "pushed downward" due to the larger losses that come from the automatic tranny (slushbox) inefficiencies.

You were probably losing about 20HP at the top end. More important is the loss of torque through the important part of the powerband. Once you move off the line (and are out of first gear), you would generally be using the powerband between 4 and 7.2K RPMS -- and this is exactly where you where losing the approx. 20 lb-ft of torque EVERYWHERE!

The HP is probably less important compared to the loss of torque through the very RPM range you needed at the track!

Broken IMRC turns a CLS into a CL...

LINK: http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=95812

6-speed manual with intake, exhaust and light wheels (no headers).

 

Thanks for you help guys. Tischer Acura is overnighting the part today and I will have my car tomorrow. I've got a TSX for the night.

 

whats a perfect shifting point w/o fuking the engine i keep trying to get a perfect shift, is 7100 good for the engine??? i just got my liscense last saturday im learning..

 

Gate shifting or SS?

For SS obviously the 1-2 shift is done for us, then I shift right at 7000 or 7100 from 2-3.

Gate shifting for the 1-2 shift is a little tricky because the tach needle is moving so fast I do not believe it is an acurate reading (I think the needle has alot of momentum behind it) So I shift it when the needle is at like 6600 and it actually shifts very close to the rev limiter. For the 2-3 shift I do the same as I did with SS mode.

 

With the last part being the case I suggest 4000 RPM.

 

Just got your liscense Saturday... yet you have 1400 posts?? Jesus H.

 

First, you discovered something was wrong in your CLS.
Congrats!

Second, since there is 0.8s delay between the time you command the trany to shift and when it does compete the shift, Gate Shift at 6800-6900 and by then, it would a hair below 7100 where the fuel cut off is.

However, there is actually no need to shift so high if you do NOT have headers. Without headers the HP will max at 6200 rpms. With headers, the TQ curve will stay flat for an extra 1000 rpms (from 5500-6500 rpms) push the max HP higher and at higher rpms, 6500.


Check this Dyno: http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...threadid=82439

 

Does the actuator effect 6 speeds?

 

Is there really almost a 40 whp gain with headers and intake???


Also... if I shifted at 6200 rpm... wouldn't my rpms in 2nd gear start much lower... say around 3700 rpm? That can't be good. I've never heard of people NOT shifting at the redline while racing.