What to do with a fresh Build
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From: San Francisco
Company called me today that I ordered the motor from and said, "got good news and bad news"
Bad news - your motor isn't here yet because I cancelled the order
Good news - I cancelled the order because I just found you a 14,000 mile motor out of an 03, and I got it instead.
Hopefully it still has that new motor smell. That's barely a 3rd oil change.
Bad news - your motor isn't here yet because I cancelled the order
Good news - I cancelled the order because I just found you a 14,000 mile motor out of an 03, and I got it instead.
Hopefully it still has that new motor smell. That's barely a 3rd oil change.

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Three Wheelin'
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From: Burlington, KY
Reading more on the Power Plenums from P2R and the ported / polished intake runners. Both sound like a no-brainer, but there doesn't seem to be any real proof that they're worth the combined $900 they fetch....maybe a 10hp gain on a good day in the right conditions....any thoughts?
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Three Wheelin'
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Bought them for $400 NIB shipped from a speed shop in sacramento - but according to him - $75 of it is S&H because they're heavy.....which seemed excessive, but whatever. Most places seem to ask $600 range.
He's checking on CT Headers for me as well - I told him $500 would be nice.
He's checking on CT Headers for me as well - I told him $500 would be nice.
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^ $400 NIB would be a great deal.
$75 doesn't sound excessive because of their size and weight.
Cost me almost $45 to ship a sway bar that was only 10 pounds.
Unless you have a business shipping rate...it's expensive IMO.
$75 doesn't sound excessive because of their size and weight.
Cost me almost $45 to ship a sway bar that was only 10 pounds.
Unless you have a business shipping rate...it's expensive IMO.
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Three Wheelin'
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From: Burlington, KY
Slamming the S kind of kills the handling characteristics of the car. You alter the angle of the driveshaft much, and it's such a short span that it creates the need for driveline modification to prevent damage.
If you've ever driven one, it really doesn't need any suspension love - the factory dampeners have f luid reservoirs, and it's extremely rigid. You can get the front wheel 2 inches off the ground on the jack point and the rear wheel is lifting into the air.
I've thought about dropping it a few times in the years I've had it, and every time I read up on what to get, it comes to the same conclusion - leave the perfect balance for the car alone.
I love the look of the lowered S2000 - but it apparently ruins the handling characteristics of a car that's already very difficult to drive comparatively speaking.
If you've ever driven one, it really doesn't need any suspension love - the factory dampeners have f luid reservoirs, and it's extremely rigid. You can get the front wheel 2 inches off the ground on the jack point and the rear wheel is lifting into the air.
I've thought about dropping it a few times in the years I've had it, and every time I read up on what to get, it comes to the same conclusion - leave the perfect balance for the car alone.

I love the look of the lowered S2000 - but it apparently ruins the handling characteristics of a car that's already very difficult to drive comparatively speaking.
The S2000s handling is amazing in stock form. I see no reason to change. The same goes for the NSX and the Lotus Elise/Exige. Alot of thought went into designing those suspensions, theres no need or real benefit to changing them.
I shouldve bought that S I was looking at
I shouldve bought that S I was looking at
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Three Wheelin'
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From: Burlington, KY
Friend that is assisting me with the engine install just ran the vin on the motor at the dealership. Last service at 12,500 for oil change, and carfax shows car totaled at 13,984 in 2005. Granted, it's been sitting for some time, but it's a 14,000 mile j32a2.
B A N N E D
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From: The grande.. Riverdale NJ.. Hopefully moving to skyline village in Lincoln park NJ..yes dirty jersey
Bought them for $400 NIB shipped from a speed shop in sacramento - but according to him - $75 of it is S&H because they're heavy.....which seemed excessive, but whatever. Most places seem to ask $600 range.
He's checking on CT Headers for me as well - I told him $500 would be nice.
He's checking on CT Headers for me as well - I told him $500 would be nice.

I saw them on E-bay for like $3?? but then u need a y pipe and hi flow cat w/that!
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Three Wheelin'
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From: Burlington, KY
Alot more TL mufflers out there than CL - and they are different. The only ones on ebay I saw NIB were TL.
High flow cat? Blah...got a test pipe on there instead.
Working on a local shop to run me 2.5 stainless from test pipe to magnaflow resonator to mufflers and keep everything modular.
High flow cat? Blah...got a test pipe on there instead.

Working on a local shop to run me 2.5 stainless from test pipe to magnaflow resonator to mufflers and keep everything modular.
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Three Wheelin'
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From: Burlington, KY
50 miles on the new motor and no CELs or odd behavior. The Clutchmasters clutch pedal is odd - you've got minimal travel, and it's completely at the floor. This is going to take some getting used to. The snick, snick of the trans is gone with the buttery clutch and dual-mass flywheel, you've got to nail every shift now.
The motor has lost a-lot between idle and 4000rpm. This is mainly the test pipe and lightened drive train. From 45000 rpm to redline it's a damn rocket. I need to get a tuner and push the vtec cam lobe engage point down to 3800 or so - I think the flow is there to accomodate it.
Once I learn the clutch / shift / rythym motion for this new setup - this car feels very alive now. It's snappy through the revs.
I'm holding 2100 RPM at 60mph in 6th gear and about 2800rpm at 80mph. Mileage should be improved.
ECU make take a few days to learn idle and pulleys, no cat, etc. The spacer I built for the cat O2 sensor seems to be working fine. Early in driving, I could hear fuel unloading in the cat and exploding. I hope the ECU leans it out some.
Theres a programmer / AFC on the black market - I think this may be a necessity now.
Comptech axlebacks will be here Thursday...woohoo - even MORE HP!
The motor has lost a-lot between idle and 4000rpm. This is mainly the test pipe and lightened drive train. From 45000 rpm to redline it's a damn rocket. I need to get a tuner and push the vtec cam lobe engage point down to 3800 or so - I think the flow is there to accomodate it.
Once I learn the clutch / shift / rythym motion for this new setup - this car feels very alive now. It's snappy through the revs.
I'm holding 2100 RPM at 60mph in 6th gear and about 2800rpm at 80mph. Mileage should be improved.
ECU make take a few days to learn idle and pulleys, no cat, etc. The spacer I built for the cat O2 sensor seems to be working fine. Early in driving, I could hear fuel unloading in the cat and exploding. I hope the ECU leans it out some.
Theres a programmer / AFC on the black market - I think this may be a necessity now.
Comptech axlebacks will be here Thursday...woohoo - even MORE HP!
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Three Wheelin'
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From: Burlington, KY
I'll check on bleeding the clutch tomorrow when I have some time to look at it more. Gonna get 100 miles or so on the eway today and listen to the engine.
Just removing the cat (I also have headers) gave the stock exhaust a nice gurgle - kind of a hint of mean-ness. Also gone is the trademark Honda starting sound (from the flywheel change I assume) - I'll get a recording of it posted up.
Just removing the cat (I also have headers) gave the stock exhaust a nice gurgle - kind of a hint of mean-ness. Also gone is the trademark Honda starting sound (from the flywheel change I assume) - I'll get a recording of it posted up.
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locally that is


