What breaks past 105K?
#1
What breaks past 105K?
Looking for items that have needed to be fixed past 105K miles on a 6MT.
I already need axles. I'm deciding if I'm going to keep the car.
I already have dumped $1900 into it with a new steering rack, fixing the exhaust, & timing belt.
I know a clutch will be in the future & that's not cheap. I run my AC almost all year long in hot FL. So I know that will be going......
I already need axles. I'm deciding if I'm going to keep the car.
I already have dumped $1900 into it with a new steering rack, fixing the exhaust, & timing belt.
I know a clutch will be in the future & that's not cheap. I run my AC almost all year long in hot FL. So I know that will be going......
#2
I shave my change purse
I'm about to hit 170,000mi on my 2001 CL-P and from what I can think of here is what has broken past 100k
- A/C Compressor @ ~140k
- Radiator Fan @ ~160k
- Stabalizer Bar Links @~ 155k
- All 4 Shocks/struts @ ~ 120k
My Axels are just starting to creak on turns now so thats next.
Thats about it.
- A/C Compressor @ ~140k
- Radiator Fan @ ~160k
- Stabalizer Bar Links @~ 155k
- All 4 Shocks/struts @ ~ 120k
My Axels are just starting to creak on turns now so thats next.
Thats about it.
#7
Back to a MT!
At 160k. Did axles at 150k. Did clutch/fly wheel/rear main seal, diff seals at 151k. At that time I replaced a leaking power steering gear box/rack, adjusted valves, did spark plugs, engine mounts. I bent a fork trying to force it back into gear to get home so had to replace the 4th gear fork (def learned to call a tow truck on that one) Car runs like new again, although shifting isn't what it was new, but can't complain for 160k... I always wonder about the AC cause it's used a lot.
For those that did the ball joints, were you able to get new aftermarket ones pressed in or did you have to replace the whole knuckle? Mine are still good, figure they may need to be changed one of these days.
Overall for having 160k on the car, I haven't done very much to it... tired, oil, brakes and batteries for the most part....
For those that did the ball joints, were you able to get new aftermarket ones pressed in or did you have to replace the whole knuckle? Mine are still good, figure they may need to be changed one of these days.
Overall for having 160k on the car, I haven't done very much to it... tired, oil, brakes and batteries for the most part....
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#9
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
If you have over 100K on the OEM radius rod bushings, spend the cash and replace them with either Moogs or energy suspensions and you will notice a difference.
Last edited by zeta; 09-09-2011 at 12:25 PM.
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g1underground (09-09-2011)
#10
I'm at 127k on a 2001 CL-S and haven't really done anything except for recent brake pads, and the usual water pump at 105k.
Haven't noticed anything with struts/suspension.
I don't expect too many parts to replace before 150k on this thing.
Haven't noticed anything with struts/suspension.
I don't expect too many parts to replace before 150k on this thing.
#12
Ultra Negro
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Seriously AC is breaking?, I service mine myself and I have 169k miles and it sill blows cold and strong with no noise, but I do notice my power steering pump is making a real slight whine so I figure that will be going out on me., still rocking the original rotors with NSX calipers up front so no warped rotors yet, gonna need a clutch soon though, mine still grabs but it has 169k on it...lol
#13
AM To WDP In My Garage
iTrader: (40)
Im at 191k on my 01 cl-s and the ac still blow really cold, the only thing that i will need to replace soon is probably my powersteering pump since its starting to make a funny noise, the driver's side axel, and also one of my motor mounts needs replacing (the one in the rear, what a bitch). Im thinking of waiting to replace that mount when i do the oddy engine swap.
#14
The motor mounts on my car have been replaced twice. The transmission was replaced at 58k miles and now it's slipping again and am told it will need to be replaced. (see oh-oh thread)
Also, wasn't there an issue with the timing belts on the the CL's? I thought mine had been replaced by previous owner but now I'm not sure.
I thought Hondas were low maintenance and would last forever but I'm seriously considering selling and never buying Honda again.
Also, wasn't there an issue with the timing belts on the the CL's? I thought mine had been replaced by previous owner but now I'm not sure.
I thought Hondas were low maintenance and would last forever but I'm seriously considering selling and never buying Honda again.
#15
I never turn it off where I live. Well maybe 2 weeks out of the year. My climate is hard on AC systems. The compressor always running so much does increase bearing wear. I have AC tools too. Just did the AC on my Explorer. but parts are parts they cost $.
I'm seriously considering jumping ship.
I'm seriously considering jumping ship.
#16
I Wanna Beer
The 1 and only time I've forgotten to take the brake off it was when I was up north. Had 3 other people on the car and thought it seemed sluggish on the pull up to about 120mph. Got to the spot we were going (about 4 miles away) and realized the brake was on. Parked it on a flat space and left it sitting with the brake off. Had my shop check it out afterwards and they said they look just fine. No damage done.
#18
I'm an owner of a CLS-6Speed.
Bought the car right at 105k and now it just turned over 140k
I haven't really done anything to the car besides routine maintenance (fluids, etc) until 138-139k just now, when I did (over a couple of weeks):
When I think about it, I have a very comfortable, reasonably fast car that consistently gets 26mpg city ~32-35mpg HWY that I dont have payments on.
In the past three years, I've spent maybe $3k in maintenance on the car (thats a high estimate) or so. That comes out to just over $80/month over that time. I think thats a lot more reasonable than a car payment to me.
KEEP IT!
Bought the car right at 105k and now it just turned over 140k
I haven't really done anything to the car besides routine maintenance (fluids, etc) until 138-139k just now, when I did (over a couple of weeks):
- New rotors/brake pads on all four wheels
- New Trans fluid, Brake Fluid, Coolant
- adjusted valvetrain (they were INCREDIBLY loose)
- Cleaned the HELL out of the intake mani
- New K&N Filter (for comptech box)
- New Spark Plugs
- Replaced Turn Signal switch (I broke the indicator switch)
- New Splash Shield (old one got ripped off)
- Rebuilt the power steering pump
- Replaced power steering rack.
When I think about it, I have a very comfortable, reasonably fast car that consistently gets 26mpg city ~32-35mpg HWY that I dont have payments on.
In the past three years, I've spent maybe $3k in maintenance on the car (thats a high estimate) or so. That comes out to just over $80/month over that time. I think thats a lot more reasonable than a car payment to me.
KEEP IT!
#20
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
Hes already purchased a new car.
#21
I Wanna Beer
That's around what I get. Average about 28mpg with more city than highway in the summer. Can get up to 37mpg on the highway. Average around 24-26 in the winter with winter tires and all the snow we get here hanging on the underbody.
#22
How come a lot of people are replacing their power steering rack The PS pump, I understand, but out of all the cars I've owned, none of the Japanese cars required rack replacement.
#26
I am getting 32mpg hwy and 27mpg city with my CL (256k miles). It all depends on your driving. If you rev the engine above 2000 rpm, it will burn more gas. With a CL, you can drive 90mph at 2000 rpm (or 2100 rpm or so). When driving in the city, don't make the engine scream - it takes only a tap on the accelerator to make it go.
#27
Three Wheelin'
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