Warming car in the AM

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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:17 PM
  #41  
Pure Adrenaline's Avatar
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From: Seattle Area
Originally Posted by jtkz13
Now these car starters designed for manuals, I assume there is a neutral safety switch of some sort? Any more info on them?
My buddy had a remote start system on his '97 GS-R 5-speed.

There was no safety feature as far as the car starting while in gear is concerned.

One time he left it in first, remote started it, and the car started rolling forward. I thought it would've stalled, but it actually moved!

He didn't have a really nice one, though. It was one of those more generic ones. So I'm not sure about the better, more expensive systems.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:16 PM
  #42  
Zippee's Avatar
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Originally Posted by NiteQwill
Read my post again... I never said a dry sump system has a vacuum pump... a wet sump system does:
Believe it or not I am familiar with dry sump systems.

OK, where is the vacuum pump in a wet sump? Are you calling the regular oil pump a "vacuum pump" as it "sucks" the oil from the sump? Wouldn't the pressure pump in a dry sump then also be a "vacuum pump" as it sucks the oil from the tank?

Although, with a wet sump system, you can rely on engine pressure even if the vacuum pump fails, which is only safe if you move your car and warm it up quicker than just let it sit there.
This is where you lost me. If the pump in a wet sump fails, where does the "engine pressure" come from? How does moving the car reduce the chance of failure or the result of same? Pump failure, either wet or dry system, usually means engine damage unless you get it shut off before the pressure to the bearings goes away.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:31 PM
  #43  
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From: Orange County, CA
Originally Posted by Zippee
Believe it or not I am familiar with dry sump systems.

OK, where is the vacuum pump in a wet sump? Are you calling the regular oil pump a "vacuum pump" as it "sucks" the oil from the sump? Wouldn't the pressure pump in a dry sump then also be a "vacuum pump" as it sucks the oil from the tank?

This is where you lost me. If the pump in a wet sump fails, where does the "engine pressure" come from? How does moving the car reduce the chance of failure or the result of same? Pump failure, either wet or dry system, usually means engine damage unless you get it shut off before the pressure to the bearings goes away.
Did I ever doubt you? Quote me where I said I didn't know what you're talking about. Hmm. Now you're reaching for words, as I see this going no where. You get the jist right? Well move on.

Mods close the thread as I feel this is turning into an intranet fight.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:48 PM
  #44  
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Not a fight, just trying to understand your claim that moving the car immediately (as opposed to warming it up) reduces engine wear.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 08:49 AM
  #45  
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From: Morristown, NJ
Originally Posted by jtkz13
Now these car starters designed for manuals, I assume there is a neutral safety switch of some sort? Any more info on them?
yeah the clifford remote start was great. process was to leave the car in neutral press two buttons on the remote, turn the ignition switch off so you can get your keys out (but the engine still stays running) and when you shut your door, the car would turn off. This was great, not sure why they stopped making this.

as far as onstar, even though thats a total abuse of the system, could be a good idea....i bet after 3-4 times of calling up with the same issue (locking yourself out in this case) you get put on a known offenders list or something like that.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 11:47 AM
  #46  
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Joined: Feb 2001
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From: Clarks Summit,Pa,USA
Wait!
i like the first idea.
Get out of morristown!
in fact, get out of Jersey!
It has it's advantages to live in the sticks!

PS.
i subscribe to the theroy of just letting it sit at idle for a minute or less, winter, or summer.
Then drive off a reduced speeds and revs until temp guare reads normal.
my two cents.
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