frenzie

Yo,

Here is a problem maybe someone has had and has an answer to. I bought my 2001 3.2cl non type s three months ago. When I bought it, the dealership said there was a rev limiter on it. Wrong. I took it to the honda dealership and they said its the VTec thats not working. Dammit, the thing will never let me rev over 3500 rpm. I guess that means the VTec never kicks in. I was told that the VTec spooling valve may be the problem, though its a $160 part thats not returnable if thats not the problem. I can never rev the engine over 3500 rpm, even when its in neutral.

Has anyone had this problem or can think of any answers?


thanks

Tunaboy

Ughhh. I know exactly what you're talking about and it's pricey. It is definitly your ecu. Take it to a dealership and have them run a diagnosis on it first. Most likely it's your Vtec solenoid which usually leads to the shortage of the ecu which means big money. Dealers price for ecu = $750 bucks. You can get the wires resoddered, but your vtec still won't engage. Before any money is dished out get them to do the diagnosis. Good Luck

rbf351

first off VTEC switch over isn't untill 4800 RPMS, you have more problems than just the solenoid, you can even test the solenoid yourself with a simple test light

phipark

My brother had this problem until we found out that it didn't have any oil in his Accord. The dealer drained it but didn't fill it.

zamo

:wtf:

rbf351

if there is no oil how did the dealer drain it?

Red-CL

Red-CL

He has to mean the dealer drained what was in there (perhaps during an oil change) and never put new oil in.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Since your car is only revving to 3500 RPM it may be more than a VTEC problem. VTEC runs off of volumetric pressure of oil. So if you are low on oil then VTEC will not engage. The car will get to like 4 grand and start bogging out or sputtering. It is a precautionary measure so no internal damage is done since you are making the most hp in the higher RPM's, which is where your VTEC kicks in.

rbf351

actually thats not true, if you don't have enough oil pressure VTEC will not engage, but your car still can rev to redline, just won't have any power

the DOHC's work a little differently than the SOHC VTEC engines
DOHC's won't let VTEC engage unless there is proper oil pressure and the engine is a certain temp
SOHC only look for the oil pressure.

either way there is something else wrong with his engine since he can't reve past 3500

allmotor_2000

VTEC spooling valve?!? WTF is that!!

If the rev limiter is at 3500RPM, there is definateley a DTC and the CEL will be on. There are several reasons the ECU clamps the limiter at 3500RPM. Cam position sensor, crank position sensor (although those are generally at 2000-2500RPM). VTEC is entireley mechanical, so other than the VTEC solenoid sending oil pressure to lock-in the center VTEC cam profile, there isn't much electronics to it. Now, if the solenoid isn't working for some reason, it is possible the ECU put the clamps on at 3500RPM. What is the code on the car? Ask the dealer.


The post above is correct, if you don't have oil pressure, VTEC won't work even if the electronics are fine - but that won't cause the rev limit to be set at 3500RPM.

rbf351

i don't know if it;s the same on a CL as it is on a Civic Si, but if you disconnect the solenoid the ECU has no clue since all it does to activate is send 12V to it and doesn't know anything else, so as long as there isn't some type of short the ECU woul;dn't know anything

Bluto

Neutral, Park, or while driving??? There is a rev-limit in Park. I think it is 4500 on the CLS??? Not sure.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Are you retarded rbf351 or are you illiterate? You wrote the same thing as me yet called me wrong.

I wrote:

And you wrote:

scalbert

If the oil pressure isn't there, either by way of there not being enough oil pressure in the system or the pressure switch is bad, the ECU clamps down at about 5200 RPM.

If it won't rev past 3500, there are other problems. Could be transmission related.

I'll dig through the manual tonight to see what holds up the engine at 3500 RPM. But regardless, there should be a code set as allmotor pointed out.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

I have one question for you: when you test drove the car, did the car only rev up to 3500RPM's? And if so, did you assume that this was normal or part of some rev limiter?

If this has been happening since you got the car then you should either call the dealer and demand the problem be fixed or be compensated.

allmotor_2000

Sorry to hijack... but Scalbert, did you get my package?

typeR

when my dash lit up back when i had the bad knock sensor it wouldnt go past 3500 ish...called limp mode...also if the oil isnt there i can tell you from experience the rev limiter will engageat about vtec

allmotor_2000

That's a good point... check if rats have eaten the knock sensor wire... they like to sit there in the middle of the block - nice warm home

rbf351

you actually wrote The car will get to like 4 grand and start bogging out or sputtering.

and no the car will not sutter or bog, it will just not have full power. those are 2 different things

typeR

the car will fuel cut if not enough oil pressure is made when the vtec engagment point is reached...period...

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Read Type R's response and you'll realize I'm right. And if you look up in the dictionary of what "bog" means you'll notice it means, "To be hindered and slowed" from www.dictionary.com. So

frenzie

Well, thanks for all the answers here, though it seems like from what everyone has said there are multiple possibilitys. The oil gasket was chewed up and leaking a bit, so I changed that (that might have explained the oil pressure preventing it though now its apparently fine...).

As per other questions, it seems the engine just cuts out at 3500 rpm, it chugs and wont let me go past 3500 at all, no matter whether im in park, neutral or driving. The dealership was going out of business and sold it off cheap. I got a little warrenty but nothing that I think will cover this one.

Anyway, maybe I should check that knock sensor... sounds like the easyest suggestion. Any other suggestions though would really be helpful!!

frenzie

Oh, and were can I find that knock sensor? I mean, where abouts is it located (whats it near?)

scalbert

It is below the intake manifold. It is hard to see without pulling the manifold.

phipark

typeR

first try disconneting the battery neg terminal for 10 minutes...possiblly a stored hard code

frenzie

cool, ill do that now. since some engine maintenece was done, I think maybe the problem is fixed and the computer still thinks its not....