Anyone know how to bypass VSA using resistors? I have seen the post before, but I can't find it through the search button. VSA is really starting to annoy me, since I modded the egr pcv systems.

 

ill talk with you about it tomorrow...its fairly easy...well easy when you got allmotor and scalbert helping you

 

Thanks

 

speaking of the devils... it's been awhile since i've seen either of them.

 

Please post, gonna be doing that soon as well. Thanks!

 

^bupmp^

 

youll make three wires come to gether in the center like the end of a fork with the center being a plain wire ... one resistor will be 3K ohm the 8K if i remember...ill search my PM's and emails to make sure

 

Originally Posted by allmotor_2000
Hey, so I figured out how to keep the VSA light soff.

You need a 8K resistor and a 2K resistor. The 8K resistor goes between the center pin and gnd. The 2K resistor goes between the center pin and VCC. This is on the sensor.

On the motor-side, just put a 10W 3-ohm resistor between the two pins.

Now... if you do plan on racing... turn the VSA off by pushing the button because I am not sure what happens if the VSA tries to do its thing!

 

...im sure ...if you get wheel spin w/o hitting the disable...the dash borad will light up and the car will all but stall

 

So the car will stall out if vsa is left on with this mod?

Thanks for the info typeR .

 

no...the car will almost stall if you hit it hard and spin on the launch w/o hitting the "disable VSA" button....as long as you dont get major wheel spin ...the worst case scenerio is a VSA and ! light that goes out on the next restart

 

Stalls out as in timing or injector pulse width changes?

Would this be dangerous while under boost to loose fuel?

 

i doubt timing is effected but it does feel like it fuel cuts upon signifigant wheel spin from a standind start ... this is only an issue if you launch hard and dont disable the VSA

 

so everything i need to buy is a 8k, 2k, and 10watt 3ohm resistor right? I still have no clue what i need to do with them though....haha im so noob

 

Wouldn't it be easier to just dissconnect the VSA ECU?

 

anybody?

 

You could use the 9K and 1K. Essentially that puts the sensor voltage to be 4.5V. The sensor expects ~3.7V... the 8K-2K combo achieves 4V. 4.5V is okay.

 

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

 

This fix will prevent the light from coming on when the VSA actuator is removed. However I suggest you disable VSA when trying to race.

 

so i just buy the 3 resistors typer gave links to above?>

 

i mentioned that above and can attest that the car will still try to stop the wheel spin...im not sure if it fuel cuts ...but when i hit it hard from a dead stop as soon as signifigant wheel spin occurs the car all but stalls and the dash lights up....this is temp as soon as you restart the car all lights are gone...another easy way to do this is just leave the VSA body in the engine bay still connected to its harness...

 

[QUOTE=typeR...another easy way to do this is just leave the VSA body in the engine bay still connected to its harness...[/QUOTE]

That's a good idea. Would cut back on some resistance to air flow too.

 

[QUOTE=Chemmech]isnt that the whole point

 

I am sick of these lights. Is this the easiet way to fix the lights. What would happen if I broke the LEDs behind the symbols?

 

the easiest way is to leave the VSA connected to its harness and just in the engine bay somewhere out of the way...but this isnt exactly hard...just read allmotors explaintion above

 

hey typer, can you message me on aim...finally got the resistors. thanks

 

what is the reason for disconnecting the vsa?...isnt it disabled as soon as u turn it off?

 

it's a source of impeded air flow....for those who want to do a P&P throttle body for example.

 

guys, this might sound noob but when taking off the vsa throttle body, what do i do with the two hoses connected to it? I'm pretty sure I can't just leave them hanging there correct? Thanks guys

 

No b/c it's coolant and is connected to the engine block.

 

If we did this, the light would stay on and we wouldn't be able to turn the VSA off/on right?

On a similar note, what if I just removed the VSA unit, I assume the light would stay on but would this cause the same reaction as if the VSA button was not turned off and the unit was removed and resistors were in place? Or would it just act as if the VSA was turned off and cause me to almost die when I burnout? I definitely do not mind the light being on if that was the case and not have to worry about turning it off and on all the time.

 

you will need to use the resistors or else your car will all but stall.

as for the coolant lines. i'm just going to put a hose from the 2 points on the block that they go to. after looking at it more and more, i feel the vsa is a major source of restriction. not only is it blocking flow, but those coolant lines can get pretty hot and heat up the IAT. i have a pre-dyno and will be doing a post dyno as soon as comptech gets me the stuff.

 

I noticed the same exact thing. Hope the dyno shows something!

 

is the point of this mod to have VSA off and also keep the dash light off?

 

the point is the eliminate air intake restriction/temperatures.

 

FYI

I removed the VSA unit tonight and put a 8" x 3" hose in the gap. I did NOT put the resistors on yet and the car runs OK but not perfect. The VSA and ! lights were both on. I caused wheel spin and it worked OK (held the burnout) again, but not it's usual self. The car feels like the PCV hose is pinched. Just a little sluggish all around. Another thing I noticed was that my fuel pressure was a few PSI lower than usual. Normal is like 37-39 PSI or so, but after doing this, it was all the way down to 34-35 at idle.

Does this give anyone enough information now to explain what the ECU does when the VSA is not connected and resistors not soldered in?

 

it sees the VSA throttle body not functioning so the computer is pulling timing?

 

Where exactly are you placing the resistors? a bit confused on how to wire them, also does this need to be done using a soldering iron? the links to radioshack show a different resistor than you mentioned.

 

would anyone be interested in this w/ directions? i could set something up through a vendor here.