UR Crank Pulley Damage- Anybody's CL Break??
#1
Old&CnL
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UR Crank Pulley Damage- Anybody's CL Break??
I've read every post/thread on the UR Crank Pulley, and in spite of a lot of spotty anecdotal reports (such as: my engine had bad bearings!), I have yet to see anyone with a CL or CL-S report a problem using the ULTRA S or other UR pulley. Most reports, if you look closely, involve other brands and not UR. I am always suspicious of a supplier disclaiming that their component does no damage.
I'll be installing a UR underdrive pulley in a few days (with Gates belts per UR specs). A Honda/Acura specialist shop has quoted $100 for the installation, and looking at the steps involved with an AT, that seems pretty reasonable.
My guess is that most of those reported failures came from guys (or girls) that had many other mods as well, and ran their cars HARD on a routine basis, and that the most convenient scapegoat for any problems was the pulley. Also when you look hard, most of those failures were with clones or other brands.
Here's my real question to all you CL types (it' a wonderful addiction): Has anybody had major problems they can directly attribute to the UR Crank Pulley??
PS: between CAI and Crank Pulley, I'm guessing I will gain 12-25 hp, meaning I'll be close to keeping up with a stock CL-S AT until I can trade for a 6MT.
C-n-L
I'll be installing a UR underdrive pulley in a few days (with Gates belts per UR specs). A Honda/Acura specialist shop has quoted $100 for the installation, and looking at the steps involved with an AT, that seems pretty reasonable.
My guess is that most of those reported failures came from guys (or girls) that had many other mods as well, and ran their cars HARD on a routine basis, and that the most convenient scapegoat for any problems was the pulley. Also when you look hard, most of those failures were with clones or other brands.
Here's my real question to all you CL types (it' a wonderful addiction): Has anybody had major problems they can directly attribute to the UR Crank Pulley??
PS: between CAI and Crank Pulley, I'm guessing I will gain 12-25 hp, meaning I'll be close to keeping up with a stock CL-S AT until I can trade for a 6MT.
C-n-L
#2
Dragging knees in
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I'm a TL-S driver, but I'll chime in.
I drive the shit out of my car on a daily basis, and track it at the drag strip and road tracks. Not a single failure yet that can be attributed to the modifications, especially the UR pulley set.
You just have to make sure to check out the car and the modifications once in a while to make sure that everything is alright. All it takes is routine maintenance, and a lot of times, failures happen when you neglect to do that.
By the way, are you getting just the crank pulley? If so, the installation cost seems to be a bit high. All it takes to install the crank pulley is 3 bolts, and slipping on the PS belt aftewards. With an air gun, it can be done in less than 10 minutes. Shop around for a better price. But if it's for the 3-piece pulley set, then 100 bucks sounds like a good price.
Good luck.
I drive the shit out of my car on a daily basis, and track it at the drag strip and road tracks. Not a single failure yet that can be attributed to the modifications, especially the UR pulley set.
You just have to make sure to check out the car and the modifications once in a while to make sure that everything is alright. All it takes is routine maintenance, and a lot of times, failures happen when you neglect to do that.
By the way, are you getting just the crank pulley? If so, the installation cost seems to be a bit high. All it takes to install the crank pulley is 3 bolts, and slipping on the PS belt aftewards. With an air gun, it can be done in less than 10 minutes. Shop around for a better price. But if it's for the 3-piece pulley set, then 100 bucks sounds like a good price.
Good luck.
#3
Old&CnL
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It's just the crank, but the motor mount has to be taken out, and to break the old pulley free is sometimes a killer w/o the right extension bars and chain wrench.
My brother-in-law said brace the wrench then crank the engine once (coils disconnected) to use the starter to remove it. ???
I think the garage will reduce the price when they understand what they need to do. They couldn't find it in the labor book, since it's usually done as part of another operation.
GOOD feedback- you are dead on about oil change, filters, etc. to prevent damage. I hope Mobil 1 also helps protect bearings and key parts as well.
CNL
My brother-in-law said brace the wrench then crank the engine once (coils disconnected) to use the starter to remove it. ???
I think the garage will reduce the price when they understand what they need to do. They couldn't find it in the labor book, since it's usually done as part of another operation.
GOOD feedback- you are dead on about oil change, filters, etc. to prevent damage. I hope Mobil 1 also helps protect bearings and key parts as well.
CNL
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Old&CnL
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Cost for UR Pulley
UR Ultra S Crank Pulley- $191 shipped
New NAPA Gates belts- $ $25
Professional Installation- $107
Total- $323
10 extra HP- Priceless.
New NAPA Gates belts- $ $25
Professional Installation- $107
Total- $323
10 extra HP- Priceless.
#6
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by Pure Adrenaline
By the way, are you getting just the crank pulley? If so, the installation cost seems to be a bit high. All it takes to install the crank pulley is 3 bolts, and slipping on the PS belt aftewards. With an air gun, it can be done in less than 10 minutes. Shop around for a better price. But if it's for the 3-piece pulley set, then 100 bucks sounds like a good price.
Its not that hard to do if you are mechanically inclined, but its just a bunch of little things that need to be done. The hardest is breaking the bolt free, but once you do that, its fairly easy.
100 is an o.k. price. I would shop around a little though. You can probably find somewhere to do it for $75.
#7
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Originally Posted by mclarenf3387
10 minutes? No way in hell you could do that job in 10 minutes. A shop should be able to do it within an hour though, probably 30-45 minutes if they're good.
Its not that hard to do if you are mechanically inclined, but its just a bunch of little things that need to be done. The hardest is breaking the bolt free, but once you do that, its fairly easy.
100 is an o.k. price. I would shop around a little though. You can probably find somewhere to do it for $75.
Its not that hard to do if you are mechanically inclined, but its just a bunch of little things that need to be done. The hardest is breaking the bolt free, but once you do that, its fairly easy.
100 is an o.k. price. I would shop around a little though. You can probably find somewhere to do it for $75.
ive personally taken it off and it took me about 20 mins to get it off, about 30 mins to get the belt on. this was when i was extremely inexperienced with cars over a year ago/presc. so if i can get it done with proper tools in 1 hour or less, i have a feeling an average mechanic can get it done in about 45 mins.
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#8
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by power3dfx
actually, with the proper tools, ive seen it done in 15-20 mins max! however, the dude has done a million of them, and didnt make any mistakes along the way. it was like an oil change for him. and though he had power tools, he only used the air compressor once when he remounted my wheel!
ive personally taken it off and it took me about 20 mins to get it off, about 30 mins to get the belt on. this was when i was extremely inexperienced with cars over a year ago/presc. so if i can get it done with proper tools in 1 hour or less, i have a feeling an average mechanic can get it done in about 45 mins.
ive personally taken it off and it took me about 20 mins to get it off, about 30 mins to get the belt on. this was when i was extremely inexperienced with cars over a year ago/presc. so if i can get it done with proper tools in 1 hour or less, i have a feeling an average mechanic can get it done in about 45 mins.
30-45 mins is a more realistic estimate for a mechanic with the tools.
And using an air gun to mount the wheels
#11
Dragging knees in
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Originally Posted by mclarenf3387
10 minutes? No way in hell you could do that job in 10 minutes. A shop should be able to do it within an hour though, probably 30-45 minutes if they're good.
Its not that hard to do if you are mechanically inclined, but its just a bunch of little things that need to be done. The hardest is breaking the bolt free, but once you do that, its fairly easy.
100 is an o.k. price. I would shop around a little though. You can probably find somewhere to do it for $75.
Its not that hard to do if you are mechanically inclined, but its just a bunch of little things that need to be done. The hardest is breaking the bolt free, but once you do that, its fairly easy.
100 is an o.k. price. I would shop around a little though. You can probably find somewhere to do it for $75.
You don't even have to jack up the car for this. All you have to do is turn the wheel all the way to the right.
Give me an air gun strong enough to loosen the crank bolt (183 ft-lbs, if I remember right) and watch me do it in 10 minutes. Of course, when I did it, I had to make a couple of trips to the shop, and I was also doing the other two pulleys, which required taking out the alternator, so it took like 2-3 hours overall.
#17
Suzuka Master
Originally Posted by dshearon
has any one actually used the method of wedging the breaker bar and cranking the car a couple of times... the cheapest i could find for an install by me was $160 to $200 for all three pulleys...
It works.
#18
Racer
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Originally Posted by mclarenf3387
It works.
sorry for the hijack by the way...
#20
Racer
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by mrsteve
Well you won't be able to get it off with either the air gun or the torque wrench.
I don't think you have the correct tools to complete the job.
I don't think you have the correct tools to complete the job.
i was planning on using the method above to get it off (breaker bar and cranking) and i have heard from people that the tourque does not need to be exact since the bolt will tighten itself. So waht i was wondering was if you guys thought it would be ok if i only tourqed the bolt down to say 150 ft lbs when putting it back on...
#21
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no prob.
i have the complete set on my h22 and had no prob. yet do to the crank pulley. sure help on the low end. revs good. but jury is still out on them i bent the eth. valves so waiting for the docter to get finish. good luck have fun.
#22
Recently turned 18
I wasn't being sarcastic. I was just thinking, if it's something that can be done with common mechanic's tools, it can be done on a base that has a decent auto hobby shop. I imagine, if it's as straightforward as getting the bolt off and then tightening down to a certain spec, then I'm confident that this is can be done there. I know at Andrews, they have several lifts plus all the tools you can think of. Just trying to read here and get a feel to make sure that the only "Hard" part is getting the bolt off.
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