Upgrading speakers -- $$$ and advice

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Old 08-13-2001, 02:39 AM
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Upgrading speakers -- $$$ and advice

I have been reading through various threads debating the impedance, etc. of the factory headunit, how much Bose sucks, etc.
I have seen people recommend speakers and talk about their $1k + amps. Also, I saw pics of StreetEffectz amazing audio system.

To help both me and others out there less educated in the finer and no-so-finers points of car stereos, what are some suggestions and how much should we plan on spending for upgrading the speakers?

From what I gather, we'll need to get an amo as well. Is this doable circa $300-400 for the whoel package? btw, I really do get sick of the hyperbole associated with people's speaker biases. Can people just recommend a reasonable upgrade that improves audio quality?
Old 08-13-2001, 04:17 AM
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To help both me and others out there less educated in the finer and no-so-finers points of car stereos, what are some suggestions and how much should we plan on spending for upgrading the speakers?

From what I gather, we'll need to get an amo (sic) as well. Is this doable circa $300-400 for the whoel package? btw, I really do get sick of the hyperbole associated with people's speaker biases. Can people just recommend a reasonable upgrade that improves audio quality?
You're supposed to be an educated person, doc, and you must realize that choosing speakers is extremely subjective. There are a huge number of CL owners that are quite happy with their Acura (Alpine)/Blowz systems. There are others who can hear the nuances offered by upgrading to fine quality audio gear. Then there are lunatics that treat their quest for wattage and sound pressure levels (volume of sound) with the same fervor as those CL owners who seek additional HP. Go figure.

Granted, some of the members go a bit overboard by "conventional" standards in trying to outdo one another. However, I am (or was in my youth) an audiophile, and I even sold home audio systems years ago when I was in college. Now I listen to MUSIC, not electronics, and I assure you that $300-400 will just about cover the cost of your "fronts" (6.5" woofers and tweeters for the doors) and their installation (maybe), never mind the cost of replacing the "rears" (6x9 coaxials for the rear deck) and the necessary 4-channel power amp (at least 50-75 watts RMS per channel). If you really listen to MUSIC, but you're not willing to fork over around a $1,000 for fronts, rears, a new 4-channel amp and installation of same, you might as well leave your system stock until you can. But you ARE a doctor, aren't you? The doctors I go to can easily afford this stuff in a heartbeat.

Now if you just want to have some deep bass (but not necessarily blow your trunk lid out), you need to think some kind of a reasonably-powered subwoofer. (That's going to add $300-$800 on top of the $1,000.) Just remember that a balanced audio system reproduces ALL the audio frequencies: highs, mids, mid-bass, and bass. My system upgrade cost over $2,000; but that wasn't a huge investment considering how much some of these guys have spent. Do yourself a favor and go to a quality car stereo showroom and audition various speakers to see if you can even hear the differences. Who knows? You may be blessed with the inability to differentiate between the modestly-priced and really expensive speaker components.

[ 08-13-2001: Message edited by: technoid ]
Old 08-13-2001, 05:19 AM
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check the sig.

I can get away with tell people i have a sub in the back.
Old 08-13-2001, 10:36 AM
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look @ amir's system and also take into consideration that you dont have to go buck-wild and spend $2K to get a good system. I recommend you get a good head unit and upgrade your speakers. This will make your "system" sound a whole lot better. For instance i recommend poineer head units but thats me, i like they sound awesome for the price. Speakers is a toss up. Theres way to many speakers out there to choose from so it's basiclly up to you on that one. Remember, you honestly do get what you pay for....and this doesn't mean for you to go spend $800 on a pair of speakers either. I recommend you get the head unit, rear speakers and front speakers. Fuck the amp and sub unless you want serious bass.
Old 08-13-2001, 01:45 PM
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You shop for speakers with your EARS not by comparing specs. PERIOD!

If you like how two sets of speakers sound, then compare the stats and pick the one with the better specs, but how a speaker sounds to YOUR ears is the most important.

Having said that, I got the Nakamichi 6.5" components for the front and the 2 way 6x9's for the rear.

I power these speakers with a POS Sony Xplod amp that has built in crossover and 7 band EQ with 60 watts by 4 channels.
I have a 12" Image Dynamics IDQ12 sub in a slightly larger than 1 cubic foot sealed box powered by a Linear Power DPS350 amp which produces 350watts RMS bridged mono. I also have a Memphis Audio active crossover for the sub which has a 24db slope and 12db bass boost at 45hz. The crossover has a wired remote which is mounted to my center console and allows me to just the sub level independent of the rest of my stereo. Very handy for turning up the bass without increasing the volume on the head unit.

[ 08-13-2001: Message edited by: BNut ]
Old 08-13-2001, 02:08 PM
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I am thinking of just going with replacement rear speakers and an amp for them, just to add a bit more bass.

Is Amir's setup good, or is there better in the mid-priced quality level?

I would also do the install myself, so
- rear speaker replacment no big deal
- run a power line to the fuse panel for the amp
- tap into the rear speaker wires, should I grab the ones before or after the stock amp?

thanks
Old 08-13-2001, 05:47 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. I do realize that one shops for speakers with their ears. However, I was hesistant to walk into a car audio showroom will total ignorance. Also, after reading other posts, I was under the impression that we needed an amp if we changed speakers. I rather like the utility of the head unit. I just find that the volume level not quite loud enough and reproduction seems heavy in the mid-range, +++ in the highs, and definitely lacking in the lows. Can we hear a improvement, esp RE: bass if I were to change out only the 6x9 on the rear deck?
(Basically, I don't want to walk into the showroom knowing nothing and get taken.)
Thanks
Old 08-13-2001, 06:09 PM
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I have diamond Audio's (the silk ones). I love them. if you're just looking for some brands as a place to start i think you should check them out. JMO
Old 08-13-2001, 09:48 PM
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Originally posted by eyeguy:

Can we hear a improvement, esp RE: bass if I were to change out only the 6x9 on the rear deck?
Duh?

Did you read ANY of my posts?

Didn't you learn ANYTHING from the other posters who said if you swap out a Blowz 2-ohm speaker for any of the decent aftermarket 4-ohm speakers (while keeping your Blowz power amp) that you're nutz?? That includes the 6X9 rears. Go ahead and try it and then write us and tell us what a colossal waste of money it was. You're not gonna get sh*t for BASS out of the OEM Blowz power amp--no-how, no way--period.
Old 08-13-2001, 10:19 PM
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If your system is upgraded properly by a SEASONED PROFESSIONAL, it is possible to gain dramatic improvements using the factory head unit and speakers. Please check some of my recent posts and e mail me if any questions. I started upgrading my system on saturday and 15 hours later it is almost complete. An amp and sub, line level preamp and serious equalization was done using a spectrum analyzer.
You can spend 1000.00 on a replacement head unit and speakers and sound no better than you do now. although the No Highs NO Loze system is weak by most peoples standards, it IS engineered for good performance.
Old 08-14-2001, 08:05 PM
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I meant to say that I install an amp with the 6x9's on the rear deck. (Was thinking faster than typing.)
Anyway, one of my coworkers suggested the idea. Can an amp be wired in like that?

And I had been reading the lengthy discourse on Bose's low impedance speakers versus industry norm. That's what led to the question.

Also, I remember people talking about an adapter to use Bose headunit w/ aftermarket speakers. How is that supposed to work?
Old 08-14-2001, 08:31 PM
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I think they tap into the speaker line and then use a line level converter to change the ohms or something then run that to the amp then to your new speakers---if you keep your head unit and factory amp
Old 01-13-2009, 08:57 PM
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Ok I have installed a few systems in my time but the CL confuses me. If I want to keep the stock head unit but change out all the speakers does that mean I will need an amp to power them since we have some kind of cheap sub that only runs at 1 ohm? Sorry for the HiJack EyeGuy.
Old 01-13-2009, 09:29 PM
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Nice OLD thread.

I changed out the speakers and head unit. I never looked back.
Old 01-13-2009, 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BigJack75
Ok I have installed a few systems in my time but the CL confuses me. If I want to keep the stock head unit but change out all the speakers does that mean I will need an amp to power them since we have some kind of cheap sub that only runs at 1 ohm? Sorry for the HiJack EyeGuy.
Run stock HU through LOC (line out convertors) to aftermarket 4 channel amp w/ x-overs. Use 2 channels to run new front speakers and bridge other two channels to run a sub. Forget the rear speakers. Have the install done expertly by someone who knows their stuff, 'cause install is 75% of the outcome. This is a simple, basic pattern that works if done right.
CL does not have a stock sub.
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