Upgrade to newer TL-S Valve Springs?
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Upgrade to newer TL-S Valve Springs?
Engine is being worked on after timing belt issue and I was reading up about the newer TL-S valve springs in that they are stiffer and will resist valve lash.
1.) Read this article, pretty good rundown of valve springs. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...Time/index.php
2.) What year springs would I get from the TL-S?
3.) If you didn't go with the TL-S springs, my motor has 200k on it, would you at least tell them to replace the original springs with new CL-S springs?
4.) I just worry with my camshaft being so old that with too stiff of valve springs it may cause damage to other engine parts.
1.) Read this article, pretty good rundown of valve springs. http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...Time/index.php
2.) What year springs would I get from the TL-S?
3.) If you didn't go with the TL-S springs, my motor has 200k on it, would you at least tell them to replace the original springs with new CL-S springs?
4.) I just worry with my camshaft being so old that with too stiff of valve springs it may cause damage to other engine parts.
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Yup, i'm an auto.
So it wouldn't benefit me to change the springs at all even to new CL-S ones?
Don't springs lose some of their ability after so many miles and won't create a perfect seal and will slightly stay open.. Or am I wrong about this on the CL-S
So it wouldn't benefit me to change the springs at all even to new CL-S ones?
Don't springs lose some of their ability after so many miles and won't create a perfect seal and will slightly stay open.. Or am I wrong about this on the CL-S
#4
Three Wheelin'
I'd replace them if I were you. At least new CLS springs. I dont know anything about the tls springs, but if they are stiffer they are going to create more seat pressure, so you would want to get a new set of valve locks and retainers to go with the new springs. Even if you go with new CLS springs.
As Phee said it will help prevent valve float. That is where your piston will actually come up in the cylinder faster than the old spring can close the valve. (much like what happened when you belt broke) Not a big problem on autos as you really cant over rev the engine to the point of floating the valves. Although I'm sure there is some way to do it in a CLS Auto.
Either way you have tired springs that I'm sure would serve you for many many more miles, but I would do new springs, locks , and retainers.
I assume they are going to put new valve seals in right, on all valves? And new valve guides too right?
As Phee said it will help prevent valve float. That is where your piston will actually come up in the cylinder faster than the old spring can close the valve. (much like what happened when you belt broke) Not a big problem on autos as you really cant over rev the engine to the point of floating the valves. Although I'm sure there is some way to do it in a CLS Auto.
Either way you have tired springs that I'm sure would serve you for many many more miles, but I would do new springs, locks , and retainers.
I assume they are going to put new valve seals in right, on all valves? And new valve guides too right?
#5
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I told him that once he opens it up, if there is anything that looks worn and since they're already in there that he should call me up and give me a price quote.
I also asked if the impact with the valve and piston if it was possible to damage the piston and he told me, "no, there shouldn't be any piston damage"
Oh man, I feel like I keep bothering this guy, but I just want to make sure I get my moneys worth since so much is being done already.
#7
Three Wheelin'
How about a set for $12,000.00+
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-15219-1000/
Even though 500 is a lot of doe for springs. Don't think I have ever spent more than 250 300 bucks for SBC, and Pontiac 455 springs. And they were the nice ones. Not including the retainers and locks. Of course the J32A2 has twice as many valves!
Last edited by CH46ESeaKnight; 12-09-2009 at 06:56 PM.
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
It's impossible to pick..
Less stiff springs, rpms rise faster and less wear on parts.
Stiffer springs, rpms rise slower, but valves create a more secure seal but more wear on cam and other parts.
Screw this
Less stiff springs, rpms rise faster and less wear on parts.
Stiffer springs, rpms rise slower, but valves create a more secure seal but more wear on cam and other parts.
Screw this
#10
Three Wheelin'
iTrader: (3)
I'm not sure if you've already bought the parts, but I have nearly a complete set of OEM brand new valves, springs, retainers locks that I took off a new set of heads. I made the mistake of buying the heads new with valves etc and then replaced them with aftermarket ones. without looking, I know that most everything is there, maybe a lock or two missing but that is easily available through acura.
#11
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I'd take them in a second but the car is already at the dealership and I'm not even sure how far along they are with the disassemble. They obviously are charging me dealer prices for the parts since they know I'm taking this issue to court with the shop who did the work on my timing belt. So for consistency sake, I'll just let the dealer install all the parts from their inventory.
Thanks for the offer though. And your car looks great, just saw it on your thread.
Thanks for the offer though. And your car looks great, just saw it on your thread.
#12
wham bam thank you ma'am
iTrader: (8)
stiffer valve springs will cause slight more wear, but if u ever over rev (really hard to impossible in an auto) this will save u tons of money, and since it has titanium retainers the whole kit is lighter than oem, so faster revs.
i only wish i had these a few months back when i mis shifted and over reved.
i only wish i had these a few months back when i mis shifted and over reved.
#17
Whats up with RDX owners?
iTrader: (9)
The TL exhaust valve springs are a cheap upgrade. The aftermarket springs would probably be overkill for you.
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