TypeS intake manifod swapped into CLP?
TypeS intake manifod swapped into CLP?
One thing i was wondering is, do yall guys think a TypeS dual butterfly manifod will be able to bolt on to the CLP/TLP and work just fine???? Wat other stuff do i need if i wanted to do that intake swap only.... wat yall think???
Well, I do know that you would need an IMRC control and cable. Then there is the issue of the CPU (PGM-F1) -- the redline would be set by that (I think, not know for sure)
Perhaps SSMAN or syncivic can give you a list of parts...
[ 08-30-2001: Message edited by: EricL ]
Perhaps SSMAN or syncivic can give you a list of parts...
[ 08-30-2001: Message edited by: EricL ]
gosh yall people.... come on! I got my car for $24500, with that price, it's $5-6000 cheaper than TypeS, so TypeS wasnt a option for me! Yea, yall are rich ass, and have money to burn! But if you have a offer for 2001 brand new CL for $24500, maybe you would do the same too..... Ok? Yall RICH PEOPLE!
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Originally posted by moomaster_99:
<STRONG>Should have bought a Type-S...
</STRONG>
<STRONG>Should have bought a Type-S...
</STRONG>
CL-S = 28,999
+ Reupholster the leather seats (To get rid of the seats with little hairy holes) = $1,200 - $1,500
+ Replace pesudeo-wood trim (To remove the fake recycled bowling ball wood trim) = $400
+ Repair scratched rims (Those scratch prone CL-S wheels) = $200 - $300
So a CL-S would have cost me $31,000 vs. $25,999 for my CL-P.
Looks like I have $5,000 extra laying around, although the stock CL-S is slightly faster. Hmmm, to do with $5,000……
Originally posted by SilverSoCal_CL-P:
<STRONG>
CL-P = $25,999
CL-S = 28,999
+ Reupholster the leather seats (To get rid of the seats with little hairy holes) = $1,200 - $1,500
+ Replace pesudeo-wood trim (To remove the fake recycled bowling ball wood trim) = $400
+ Repair scratched rims (Those scratch prone CL-S wheels) = $200 - $300
So a CL-S would have cost me $31,000 vs. $25,999 for my CL-P.
Looks like I have $5,000 extra laying around, although the stock CL-S is slightly faster. Hmmm, to do with $5,000……</STRONG>
<STRONG>
CL-P = $25,999
CL-S = 28,999
+ Reupholster the leather seats (To get rid of the seats with little hairy holes) = $1,200 - $1,500
+ Replace pesudeo-wood trim (To remove the fake recycled bowling ball wood trim) = $400
+ Repair scratched rims (Those scratch prone CL-S wheels) = $200 - $300
So a CL-S would have cost me $31,000 vs. $25,999 for my CL-P.
Looks like I have $5,000 extra laying around, although the stock CL-S is slightly faster. Hmmm, to do with $5,000……</STRONG>

Just fucking with ya....don't get mad!!!
Let's not get into a pissing match here. You would probably also have to switch out the ECU (even though you wouldn't have VSA). You might have to switch out the throttle body and intake unless you have a CAI. The stock air boxes are different between the two. The manifold is taller on the Type S so clearance may be an issue. I know it was on someone wanting to do it in a 1st gen CL. IMHO it would cost too much for the result.
I dunno, if you could pick up all you need from a boneyard for a stitch, it might be worth a shot. You'd need the manifold, TB, and IMRC. You could get away without the S ECU by using an MSD rpm activated switch for IMRC activation. I still think you'll give big bucks for the whole deal, as the boneyards today know what they've got. Still would be interesting to see what she'd do.
Jim
Jim
Originally posted by davo-cls:
<STRONG>IMHO it would cost too much for the result.</STRONG>
<STRONG>IMHO it would cost too much for the result.</STRONG>
Remember that us CL-P owners have an extra $5,000 saved since we didn't go for the CL-S.
Anyways, how much are we talking in parts? $400 - $500?
I ask this because I remeber all the CL-S owners complaining that their CL-S became a CL-P because the actuator wasn't working right. When it was fixed everyone claimed to notice a big performance difference.
Originally posted by SilverSoCal_CL-P:
<STRONG>
Remember that us CL-P owners have an extra $5,000 saved since we didn't go for the CL-S.
Anyways, how much are we talking in parts? $400 - $500?
I ask this because I remeber all the CL-S owners complaining that their CL-S became a CL-P because the actuator wasn't working right. When it was fixed everyone claimed to notice a big performance difference.</STRONG>
<STRONG>
Remember that us CL-P owners have an extra $5,000 saved since we didn't go for the CL-S.
Anyways, how much are we talking in parts? $400 - $500?
I ask this because I remeber all the CL-S owners complaining that their CL-S became a CL-P because the actuator wasn't working right. When it was fixed everyone claimed to notice a big performance difference.</STRONG>
Originally posted by HellaWhat:
<STRONG>$5000??? Are you talking about a Bare Bones CLP Vs. a Navi CLS??? the CLP Rims stick out more than ours.</STRONG>
<STRONG>$5000??? Are you talking about a Bare Bones CLP Vs. a Navi CLS??? the CLP Rims stick out more than ours.</STRONG>
Plus about $2,000 to improve the CL-S to an acceptable level.
Also the CL-P rims do not stick out more than the CL-S. Atleast the ones I saw at the dealer.
Originally posted by SilverSoCal_CL-P:
<STRONG>
Remember that us CL-P owners have an extra $5,000 saved since we didn't go for the CL-S.
</STRONG>
<STRONG>
Remember that us CL-P owners have an extra $5,000 saved since we didn't go for the CL-S.
</STRONG>
MSRP of the CL-P is $27980, MSRP of the CL-S is $30330. If my math is correct, the difference is $2350. Just becuase you got a deal on a CL-P doesn't mean you saved $5k. I know people that got a Type S for less than $28k.
Originally posted by SilverSoCal_CL-P:
<STRONG>
There was a $3,000 difference between the CL-P and CL-S.
Plus about $2,000 to improve the CL-S to an acceptable level.
Also the CL-P rims do not stick out more than the CL-S. Atleast the ones I saw at the dealer.</STRONG>
<STRONG>
There was a $3,000 difference between the CL-P and CL-S.
Plus about $2,000 to improve the CL-S to an acceptable level.
Also the CL-P rims do not stick out more than the CL-S. Atleast the ones I saw at the dealer.</STRONG>

I should know..used to have one... :p
Noo, $24500 is not out the door... $24500+tax, but still, it's still a good deal compare to a CLS.... plus parents thing is an issue.... you know how parents are, they were like "whao this is way cheaper, get this, or get accord" then i just went shut up! Cuz the total drive out price was $26320. That still cheaper than a CLP sticker... The reason was becuase they had no TypeS, but they had too much CLP that they need to push out.. thats why.... This was way back in January, 2 black TypeS, but 6 Silver, 5 white, 7 black, 4 green, 4 blue CLP.....
So seems like the conclusion now is, Yes, it probally will fit a CLP, but not worth the money to do it?
Also, does anyone know if theres a different between a P and S exhasut? cuz i talked to tge guys in parts, they said they parts number are different, but according to wat they know, Acura will not make two mufflers for one car.... The reason i ask is because I am thinking to get header, but I do not want to change out the muffler to have noise... thats why IF the TypeS mufflers are btter flow, I can just grab a typeS exhasut and put it on.... If not, i just leave it.... Wat yall think again?
So seems like the conclusion now is, Yes, it probally will fit a CLP, but not worth the money to do it?
Also, does anyone know if theres a different between a P and S exhasut? cuz i talked to tge guys in parts, they said they parts number are different, but according to wat they know, Acura will not make two mufflers for one car.... The reason i ask is because I am thinking to get header, but I do not want to change out the muffler to have noise... thats why IF the TypeS mufflers are btter flow, I can just grab a typeS exhasut and put it on.... If not, i just leave it.... Wat yall think again?
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Originally posted by laser1180:
<STRONG>Noo, $24500 is not out the door... $24500+tax, but still, it's still a good deal compare to a CLS.... plus parents thing is an issue.... you know how parents are, they were like "whao this is way cheaper, get this, or get accord" then i just went shut up! Cuz the total drive out price was $26320. That still cheaper than a CLP sticker... The reason was becuase they had no TypeS, but they had too much CLP that they need to push out.. thats why.... This was way back in January, 2 black TypeS, but 6 Silver, 5 white, 7 black, 4 green, 4 blue CLP.....
So seems like the conclusion now is, Yes, it probally will fit a CLP, but not worth the money to do it?
Also, does anyone know if theres a different between a P and S exhasut? cuz i talked to tge guys in parts, they said they parts number are different, but according to wat they know, Acura will not make two mufflers for one car.... The reason i ask is because I am thinking to get header, but I do not want to change out the muffler to have noise... thats why IF the TypeS mufflers are btter flow, I can just grab a typeS exhasut and put it on.... If not, i just leave it.... Wat yall think again?</STRONG>
<STRONG>Noo, $24500 is not out the door... $24500+tax, but still, it's still a good deal compare to a CLS.... plus parents thing is an issue.... you know how parents are, they were like "whao this is way cheaper, get this, or get accord" then i just went shut up! Cuz the total drive out price was $26320. That still cheaper than a CLP sticker... The reason was becuase they had no TypeS, but they had too much CLP that they need to push out.. thats why.... This was way back in January, 2 black TypeS, but 6 Silver, 5 white, 7 black, 4 green, 4 blue CLP.....
So seems like the conclusion now is, Yes, it probally will fit a CLP, but not worth the money to do it?
Also, does anyone know if theres a different between a P and S exhasut? cuz i talked to tge guys in parts, they said they parts number are different, but according to wat they know, Acura will not make two mufflers for one car.... The reason i ask is because I am thinking to get header, but I do not want to change out the muffler to have noise... thats why IF the TypeS mufflers are btter flow, I can just grab a typeS exhasut and put it on.... If not, i just leave it.... Wat yall think again?</STRONG>
Doesnt the CLS have a hi-flo cat?
Originally posted by RedLineTypeS:
<STRONG>
Doesnt the CLS have a hi-flo cat?</STRONG>
<STRONG>
Doesnt the CLS have a hi-flo cat?</STRONG>
Just to add, from the Dealership, the total parts for the upper manifold (plenum), with gaskets and bolts will run you around $1500, and that doesn't include the actuator motor, the lower intake manifold runners (they are different in size than the TL-P/CL-P, these route from the upper intake plenum to each SOHC head), and the IMRC control module, which should run you another $400-500 dollars from the dealership, though as someone said, you could easily just use an MSD rpm switch to send the 12v's to the actuator. CL-S throttle body is about $190 from the dealership as well.
Also remember that you probaly wouldn't extract the same hp results for the CL-S, due to the heads being different (A1 to the A2), which involves higher compression (10.5:1, though that could be also due to the pistons/rods) as well as larger intake valve ports and smoothed out intake valve inlets. Also a higher redline to allow the engine to rev to those higher speeds and it's still huffin and puffin creating higher peak power. So even if you had higher airflow, if your engine can't reach those rpms where it's really needed, it's not going to be doing as much as good in the lower rpms as you might want.
Also remember that you probaly wouldn't extract the same hp results for the CL-S, due to the heads being different (A1 to the A2), which involves higher compression (10.5:1, though that could be also due to the pistons/rods) as well as larger intake valve ports and smoothed out intake valve inlets. Also a higher redline to allow the engine to rev to those higher speeds and it's still huffin and puffin creating higher peak power. So even if you had higher airflow, if your engine can't reach those rpms where it's really needed, it's not going to be doing as much as good in the lower rpms as you might want.
Originally posted by -=SoCalV6=-:
<STRONG>Just to add, from the Dealership, the total parts for the upper manifold (plenum), with gaskets and bolts will run you around $1500, and that doesn't include the actuator motor, the lower intake manifold runners (they are different in size than the TL-P/CL-P, these route from the upper intake plenum to each SOHC head), and the IMRC control module, which should run you another $400-500 dollars from the dealership, though as someone said, you could easily just use an MSD rpm switch to send the 12v's to the actuator. CL-S throttle body is about $190 from the dealership as well.
Also remember that you probaly wouldn't extract the same hp results for the CL-S, due to the heads being different (A1 to the A2), which involves higher compression (10.5:1, though that could be also due to the pistons/rods) as well as larger intake valve ports and smoothed out intake valve inlets. Also a higher redline to allow the engine to rev to those higher speeds and it's still huffin and puffin creating higher peak power. So even if you had higher airflow, if your engine can't reach those rpms where it's really needed, it's not going to be doing as much as good in the lower rpms as you might want.</STRONG>
<STRONG>Just to add, from the Dealership, the total parts for the upper manifold (plenum), with gaskets and bolts will run you around $1500, and that doesn't include the actuator motor, the lower intake manifold runners (they are different in size than the TL-P/CL-P, these route from the upper intake plenum to each SOHC head), and the IMRC control module, which should run you another $400-500 dollars from the dealership, though as someone said, you could easily just use an MSD rpm switch to send the 12v's to the actuator. CL-S throttle body is about $190 from the dealership as well.
Also remember that you probaly wouldn't extract the same hp results for the CL-S, due to the heads being different (A1 to the A2), which involves higher compression (10.5:1, though that could be also due to the pistons/rods) as well as larger intake valve ports and smoothed out intake valve inlets. Also a higher redline to allow the engine to rev to those higher speeds and it's still huffin and puffin creating higher peak power. So even if you had higher airflow, if your engine can't reach those rpms where it's really needed, it's not going to be doing as much as good in the lower rpms as you might want.</STRONG>
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handsom-hustla
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Nov 13, 2015 05:04 PM


, then can someone answer the original question.

