loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

Hello all,

I was just at my local Acura dealer, and was told something I find hard to believe and would like to know if anyone else has experience with this. I have a break problem and had my rotors turned at a reputable place, but my problem is still there. When I took it to the dealership, they asked if I had the rotors turned on or off the car? I informed them off the car, and they said that could be the problem. Acura turns their rotors on the car, so that they are turned to match the suspension. That sounded a bit strange to me, seeing the car is up in the air and the suspension extended. I was informed turning the rotors off the car, you could actually put a shake in your car. I would like to know if anyone has experience in this matter to tell me if they are right. I can't see how if you turn a rotor off the car, it could be wrong on the car. thanks again guys.

AMUA6

iTrader: (7)

SPoolinspOON

iTrader: (5)

This is very true. Many dealerships are required to have ProCut for turning rotors. This method is very accurate. When removing the rotor and putting it on the bench to machine, the rotor is machined to the hub of the bench machine. With Procut, the rotor is on the car and is matched with the hub of the car. The machine does a visual of out of spec. Then starts to cut. I've seen it done and its very accurate and produces a nice finish. It also cuts the rotor in non-directional so when moving forward and reverse there is no pad movement. Takes about 10min to machine and you do not have to remove the caliper bracket, just the caliper itself.

What type of problems were you having? brake shimmey?

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

when does the wheel shake... only when braking at high speeds? only after they are heated up? only when u thresh-hold brake, or does it slightly vibrate all the time on the highway and then get worse when u brake and speed makes it worse?

Before you answer: My guess is they start to shake when u brake from 40mph or so or higher. and it gets a little better if you smash on the brakes. But if you apply even pressure at highway speeds. the Wobble gets worse and worse (as the heat builds up)

^
This is because the rotors are actually 100% straight but SINCE they have machined and maybe more than once, the thickness of the rotor is not the same and that is what makes the rotor able to take the heat (the amount of and quality of the metal on the rotor).

FYI i had breaking issues when i purchased my car... went to acura and the machined them perfectly... and as soon as the rotors heated up at all they went to JELLO!!

wheel was all over the place. it was a disgrace.

Both times I got rotors turned (different brand rotors, and went to a different place) the result was the SAME...extremely disappointing and I immediately threw them in the trash.

go get urself some aftermarket brakes and decent pads.. I would recommend slotted only.

I had drilled and slotted DBA rotors and still warped them after 12 months of PUNISHMENT. so I got DBA fronts.. slotted and hawk pads. about 440 in total but god damn... the brakes CANNOT fade or wheel wobble EVER..

unless u track the car.. then ur gonna need a BBK. but hey what do ya expect

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

x2

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Guys, that didn't make sense to me originally, but your answers have helped. My problem is a shake above 55 mph when lightly touching the brakes. It started out of the blue, then I had the rotors turned off the car and it did not make it better or worse. I have actually ordered a set of 2 piston calipers, and new ceramic pads. Looks like I need to order a set of rotors too. From what I read above, if you have to have any rotor turned, you run into a chance that they will not be any good after that. If that is true, why would you ever have rotors turned?

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

WHY turn rotors?? cause people make money off of it and most ppl don't brake hard.. so for all those granny drivers turning the rotors does work in many cases.

but for all us performance oriented people it's simple a waste of time money and effort

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info. Good to know.

SPoolinspOON

iTrader: (5)

lol, i've turned my previous rotors before and I brake late and hard. It really depends on the material and thickness. Thats why you guage the thickness before you machine the rotor. If it close to minimum I don't even bother. Or if its warped to hell.

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

I have a question, if you buy new rotors, they are not turned on the car, so what is the difference if you turn rotors off the car?

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

If they are quality rotors, the equipment they were machined on keeps tight tolerances.

loweredCL

iTrader: (1)

Are you saying if the rotors that were turned were quality rotors, and turned on a good machine, they should be fine? Earlier it was said they have to be turned on the car or they could still be bad when installed after having them turned off the car? I'm confused now.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

I was answering your question about the manufacturing process.

SPoolinspOON

iTrader: (5)

I've seen on new off by four one-thousands. Check it out yourself. The amount is minimal but it's still off. It's hard to get it 100%.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

i read anything over 5 one thousands (0.005 inches) u can feel in the pedal/steering wheel..

scary to think that's ALL it takes to piss me off

silvervtec96

I would just replace rotors on our cars over turning them...

SPoolinspOON

iTrader: (5)

eh, I think it really thickness left and brand...

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Yea and depends on the price. If you're running high quality performance rotors thats alot of money to throw away on a new set if your current rotors can be cut.

CL-S progression 01

iTrader: (2)

lol... seems there really is no right answer. technically w/e is cheapest and works, is the best method right. But everyone's situation is different so.... what can ya do