The Top 10 "MUST HAVE" CL Modifications

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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 10:02 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by richardparker
If brakes are next.
Go with a cross drilled rotor set up and ceramic pads.
Rotor will run cooler and stop beter.
ceramic pads will have very low brake dust and their quiet.
Also you can get a whole cheap brand set up for $160.
where? lol
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 10:06 AM
  #42  
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Brands? If I can figure out a setup im going to order today
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 10:14 AM
  #43  
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3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
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I'm ordering myself some of theseI'm just waiting to see if they will do the gold zinc plating on these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 11:50 AM
  #44  
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Just ordered Rotora drilled and slotted rotors front and rear. Now I need pads, any suggestions on brand?
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Old Apr 24, 2010 | 12:27 PM
  #45  
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3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL
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ebc, they have 3 differnt pads grades I guess a bunch of people here use them.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:08 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by manny3010
How do you do #10 and is it possible in a automatic base model?


On your gear shift there is one spot marked "R". If you put the selector in this position, your Acura will be RWD.

On a manual transmission model, you have to come to a complete stop, push in the clutch and push the stick shift to the far right, then pull back to put the car into RWD mode.
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:40 PM
  #47  
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Old Apr 28, 2010 | 07:41 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by black label
On your gear shift there is one spot marked "R". If you put the selector in this position, your Acura will be RWD.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 11:49 PM
  #49  
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is that rwd thing real?
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 11:51 PM
  #50  
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If your going in reverse it is
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 02:15 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by antpr14
is that rwd thing real?
Yes, but the autos are prone to having their transmissions catch on fire if done too much. It should only be done at the track or else you'll like a retard.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 02:36 AM
  #52  
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which CAI is the best? or what do you guys prefer on the Cls
injen, Aem, or K&N??
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:47 AM
  #53  
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intake, headers, exhaust, 3.7 manifold, torque damper, springs/coilovers, mine is 02' so 03' taillights, 6MT swap, bbk, CUSTOM TURBO KIT
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:52 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Rejckt
Because when you step on the clutch, the bov go pssssst. And the auto tranny can't handle a turbo imo. As if our tranny doesn't suck enough, I believe gear ratio would be a factor in denying a turbo it's full potential. 3rd gear auto = 4th gear manual. In otherwords, auto = turbolag.

.
actually, turbo cars tend to do better in auto situations. they allow you to hold boost during shifts and basically eliminate lag between shifts. not to mention turbos loooove longer gears because the extra load allows you to build boost quicker.

this is why all drag turbo cars are auto.

but i prefer a turbo/nitrous over a SC they are more efficient and the turbo provides less strain than a sc
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:12 AM
  #55  
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ok so what is recommended for sway bars and strut tower bars? got basically everthing else hahah
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #56  
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^^^^
I'm really happy with my Eibach front and rear swaybars. Others here might recommend the progress bar, they are good too. The Eibach's come in a kit with bushings, but you'll need new links. Pick up some Moog brand from Rock-auto for a nice upgrade over the weak stock links.

For the strut tower I've got a Cusco bar. Looks nice with a polished finish and works with the stock bar too. Other options for the strut tower are to find a used Comptech or Neuspeed bar.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 12:46 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by cb717cls
ok so what is recommended for sway bars and strut tower bars? got basically everthing else hahah
I would get the progress rear sway bar over the others, it has 2 attachment points and I put it on the stiffer setting. Moog end links are a good idea also. THe front sway bar isnt as necessary as rear. You can just leave front stock and add new moog endlinks, otherwise get the eibach front bar.

For the strut tower it is just preference. The comptech(discontinued) replaces the stock bar and would be the lightest setup. The neuspeed and cusco are the other 2 options and they both go on along with the stock bar so you have 2 bars.

Last edited by brian6speed; Nov 24, 2010 at 12:50 PM.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 01:03 PM
  #58  
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From everyone I have asked on this site about strut bars, all of them have said that they didn't feel a difference in handling.
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 01:28 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by antpr14
which CAI is the best? or what do you guys prefer on the Cls
injen, Aem, or K&N??
They are pretty much all the same, a pipe with a filter on the end
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:35 PM
  #60  
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i got some aem stickers and it gave me 35hp! i reccomend highly
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 08:56 PM
  #61  
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JDM wiper blades
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 11:30 PM
  #62  
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bullet proofing the tranny with a level 10 rebuild kit is the first thing I would recommend, I promise you that 50% of the time it will work 100% of the time
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Old Nov 24, 2010 | 11:42 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Nersh7
I promise you that 50% of the time it will work 100% of the time
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Old Jun 11, 2023 | 02:44 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by CL-S progression 01
lol i happen to think the sound system is damn good... for a stock 2001 ride... the system was definitely ahead of its time
I mean back then yeah I can see it being ahead of its time, but now 20+ years... kinda but it's just not the best with what's out there now
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