The Top 10 "MUST HAVE" CL Modifications

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04-24-2010, 10:02 AM

#41

Bonez21

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Quote:

Originally Posted by richardparker

If brakes are next.
Go with a cross drilled rotor set up and ceramic pads.
Rotor will run cooler and stop beter.
ceramic pads will have very low brake dust and their quiet.
Also you can get a whole cheap brand set up for $160.

where? lol

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04-24-2010, 10:06 AM

#42

df44

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Brands? If I can figure out a setup im going to order today

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04-24-2010, 10:14 AM

#43

richardparker

3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL

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I'm ordering myself some of theseI'm just waiting to see if they will do the gold zinc plating on these.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWAX%3AIT

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04-24-2010, 11:50 AM

#44

df44

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Just ordered Rotora drilled and slotted rotors front and rear. Now I need pads, any suggestions on brand?

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04-24-2010, 12:27 PM

#45

richardparker

3.7L Nitrous Breathing CL

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ebc, they have 3 differnt pads grades I guess a bunch of people here use them.

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04-28-2010, 07:08 PM

#46

black label

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Quote:

Originally Posted by manny3010

How do you do #10 and is it possible in a automatic base model?

On your gear shift there is one spot marked "R". If you put the selector in this position, your Acura will be RWD.

On a manual transmission model, you have to come to a complete stop, push in the clutch and push the stick shift to the far right, then pull back to put the car into RWD mode.

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04-28-2010, 07:40 PM

#47

civicdrivr

Whats up with RDX owners?

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04-28-2010, 07:41 PM

#48

jaMezBOI

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Quote:

Originally Posted by black label

On your gear shift there is one spot marked "R". If you put the selector in this position, your Acura will be RWD.

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11-23-2010, 11:49 PM

#49

antpr14

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is that rwd thing real?

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11-23-2010, 11:51 PM

#50

Nersh7

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If your going in reverse it is

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11-24-2010, 02:15 AM

#51

Jacobpockros

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Quote:

Originally Posted by antpr14

is that rwd thing real?

Yes, but the autos are prone to having their transmissions catch on fire if done too much. It should only be done at the track or else you'll like a retard.

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11-24-2010, 02:36 AM

#52

antpr14

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which CAI is the best? or what do you guys prefer on the Cls
injen, Aem, or K&N??

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11-24-2010, 08:47 AM

#53

MIKE8898

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intake, headers, exhaust, 3.7 manifold, torque damper, springs/coilovers, mine is 02' so 03' taillights, 6MT swap, bbk, CUSTOM TURBO KIT

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11-24-2010, 08:52 AM

#54

phee

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Rejckt

Because when you step on the clutch, the bov go pssssst. And the auto tranny can't handle a turbo imo. As if our tranny doesn't suck enough, I believe gear ratio would be a factor in denying a turbo it's full potential. 3rd gear auto = 4th gear manual. In otherwords, auto = turbolag.

.

actually, turbo cars tend to do better in auto situations. they allow you to hold boost during shifts and basically eliminate lag between shifts. not to mention turbos loooove longer gears because the extra load allows you to build boost quicker.

this is why all drag turbo cars are auto.

but i prefer a turbo/nitrous over a SC they are more efficient and the turbo provides less strain than a sc

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11-24-2010, 10:12 AM

#55

cb717cls

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ok so what is recommended for sway bars and strut tower bars? got basically everthing else hahah

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11-24-2010, 10:43 AM

#56

SlickShiftNall6

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^^^^
I'm really happy with my Eibach front and rear swaybars. Others here might recommend the progress bar, they are good too. The Eibach's come in a kit with bushings, but you'll need new links. Pick up some Moog brand from Rock-auto for a nice upgrade over the weak stock links.

For the strut tower I've got a Cusco bar. Looks nice with a polished finish and works with the stock bar too. Other options for the strut tower are to find a used Comptech or Neuspeed bar.

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11-24-2010, 12:46 PM

#57

brian6speed

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cb717cls

ok so what is recommended for sway bars and strut tower bars? got basically everthing else hahah

I would get the progress rear sway bar over the others, it has 2 attachment points and I put it on the stiffer setting. Moog end links are a good idea also. THe front sway bar isnt as necessary as rear. You can just leave front stock and add new moog endlinks, otherwise get the eibach front bar.

For the strut tower it is just preference. The comptech(discontinued) replaces the stock bar and would be the lightest setup. The neuspeed and cusco are the other 2 options and they both go on along with the stock bar so you have 2 bars.

Last edited by brian6speed; 11-24-2010 at 12:50 PM.

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11-24-2010, 01:03 PM

#58

Jacobpockros

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From everyone I have asked on this site about strut bars, all of them have said that they didn't feel a difference in handling.

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11-24-2010, 01:28 PM

#59

Nersh7

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Quote:

Originally Posted by antpr14

which CAI is the best? or what do you guys prefer on the Cls
injen, Aem, or K&N??

They are pretty much all the same, a pipe with a filter on the end

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11-24-2010, 08:35 PM

#60

xtremecro

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i got some aem stickers and it gave me 35hp! i reccomend highly

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11-24-2010, 08:56 PM

#61

Rapture

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JDM wiper blades

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11-24-2010, 11:30 PM

#62

Nersh7

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bullet proofing the tranny with a level 10 rebuild kit is the first thing I would recommend, I promise you that 50% of the time it will work 100% of the time