Took car in for the recall and the dealer told my I need a new clutch???
#1
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Took car in for the recall and the dealer told me I need a new clutch???
I have been having some problems when I start in 1st gear or sometimes in lows speeds (10-20) in 2nd gear the car sputters as it starts, almost like if you are in 5th gear and should be in 2nd or 3rd. I complained to the dealer and they said that they think I have hot spots and it will cost me $1115 to have this fixed. I feel as though I am being taken.
First, I should note that 7500 miles ago (approx, 21K miles) I had my tranny replaced because it was notchy when shifting into 2nd gear. Tranny swap fixed the problem for the most part but a few months after I started noticing the sputtering a little. Now it is starting to get a little worse and is really more annoying than anything. I usually drive pretty hard but I have never dumped the clutch even once other than below 2K at the start.
I have a few questions. I had the tranny replaced by the dealer in FL that I purchased the car from and now I live in Los Angeles/Beverly Hills area and Santa Monica Acura claims this is wear and tear and not covered under warranty. First question is should call Acura National directly and try and make them fix this?
Second question is if I am stuck with having to fix this problem myself, do I really need a whole clutch assembly kit or just a new flywheel?
Allmotor, maybe you can shed some light here?
First, I should note that 7500 miles ago (approx, 21K miles) I had my tranny replaced because it was notchy when shifting into 2nd gear. Tranny swap fixed the problem for the most part but a few months after I started noticing the sputtering a little. Now it is starting to get a little worse and is really more annoying than anything. I usually drive pretty hard but I have never dumped the clutch even once other than below 2K at the start.
I have a few questions. I had the tranny replaced by the dealer in FL that I purchased the car from and now I live in Los Angeles/Beverly Hills area and Santa Monica Acura claims this is wear and tear and not covered under warranty. First question is should call Acura National directly and try and make them fix this?
Second question is if I am stuck with having to fix this problem myself, do I really need a whole clutch assembly kit or just a new flywheel?
Allmotor, maybe you can shed some light here?
#3
ALi G in the House!
i don't personally like santa monica acura...they always fuck some part of my car up when i take it there. i wouldn't take it there anymore but i got 3 year free oil and lube and there pretty close to me..
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my clutch is slipping or not grabbing so well right now when i start in first gear and i am at 10500 or so miles. and the shudder or weird clutch feeling in between my first to second gear shift which i complained about last month seems to be getting worse but they said it was normal. Now i have this new problem that occured today which i will complain about tomorrow. Lately i've been noticing that my shifting hasn't been that smooth and i thought it was my fault but apparently the clutch is worn or something. this sucks. Acura better not try to pull some stupid ish on me and i hope they fix the problem but we'll see... how long does a synchro/clutch replacement take to get repaired?
#5
GEEZER
Sounds like the 6 speeders are having Tranny Issues too. I would call ACURA DIRECT....you would be suprised with the results you get.
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if they resurface the rotors why won't they cover the clutch. 4 yr 50k warranty should cover everything. esp mechanical. i'm sure u will get someone to fix it. less than 30k miles on the clock
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#8
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Thanks for the replies so far. I am still hoping to get some opinions on wheter the shuddering I am having is just related to the hot spots on the Flywheel and therefore, by changing the flywheel this would fix my problem. Anyone have any ideas?
Allmotor?
Also, does anyone have the number for Acura Direct?
Allmotor?
Also, does anyone have the number for Acura Direct?
#9
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I am assuming you have a manual trannie. Do this:
Let the car warm up to full operating temperature in a parking lot with plenty of room ahead of the car, transmission in neutral.
Apply the parking brake fully.
Depress clutch.
Select the highest gear, 5th? 6th?
Release clutch.
If the car quits, you do NOT need a clutch. If the car continues to run you DO need a clutch, and you need it now!
Let the car warm up to full operating temperature in a parking lot with plenty of room ahead of the car, transmission in neutral.
Apply the parking brake fully.
Depress clutch.
Select the highest gear, 5th? 6th?
Release clutch.
If the car quits, you do NOT need a clutch. If the car continues to run you DO need a clutch, and you need it now!
#11
Suzuka Master
Other dealers to see
Try Acura 101 in the west valley (good reports).
Pasadena also has/had a good reputation.
I’d go to Keyes before I’d go to Santa Monica.
YMMV
Pasadena also has/had a good reputation.
I’d go to Keyes before I’d go to Santa Monica.
YMMV
#12
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Originally posted by dfreder370
I am assuming you have a manual trannie. Do this:
Let the car warm up to full operating temperature in a parking lot with plenty of room ahead of the car, transmission in neutral.
Apply the parking brake fully.
Depress clutch.
Select the highest gear, 5th? 6th?
Release clutch.
If the car quits, you do NOT need a clutch. If the car continues to run you DO need a clutch, and you need it now!
I am assuming you have a manual trannie. Do this:
Let the car warm up to full operating temperature in a parking lot with plenty of room ahead of the car, transmission in neutral.
Apply the parking brake fully.
Depress clutch.
Select the highest gear, 5th? 6th?
Release clutch.
If the car quits, you do NOT need a clutch. If the car continues to run you DO need a clutch, and you need it now!
#13
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by IwantOne
I am not being a smartass, could you please explain what this procedure means ?? I had a similar problem and I am trying to figure things out. Thanks.
I am not being a smartass, could you please explain what this procedure means ?? I had a similar problem and I am trying to figure things out. Thanks.
#14
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I am still curious what you guys think about the Flywheel? Would the problem possibly be fixed by just replacing the Flywheel or would I have to replace the entire clutch assembly as well? I will check the status of letting out the clutch in 6th gear with the parking break on and see if it dies.
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1)the clutch is not covered under the factory warranty (unless its like less than 5k miles on the car)
2)if its the tranny, then you should be covered b/c of the new tranny warranty
3)not sure why its dying between gears, other than a problem w/in your tranny/clutch assembly
4)the "notchiness" everyone complains about, get used to it, its a close ratio transmission and Honda's are known for that "notchiness" in the NSX and S2000...try some new synthetic tranny fluid and it should take out the grinding....
5)I drive probably just as hard on mine as the other guy, but mine seems to be fine, other than the notchiness of course...huh im crossing my fingers that it stays that way.....
Good luck, and dont always believe the dealer, if you know any performance shops in the area, let them take a look at it too....
2)if its the tranny, then you should be covered b/c of the new tranny warranty
3)not sure why its dying between gears, other than a problem w/in your tranny/clutch assembly
4)the "notchiness" everyone complains about, get used to it, its a close ratio transmission and Honda's are known for that "notchiness" in the NSX and S2000...try some new synthetic tranny fluid and it should take out the grinding....
5)I drive probably just as hard on mine as the other guy, but mine seems to be fine, other than the notchiness of course...huh im crossing my fingers that it stays that way.....
Good luck, and dont always believe the dealer, if you know any performance shops in the area, let them take a look at it too....
#17
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The notchiness is not the problem The new tranny fixed that for the most part. The only problem is the sputtering in first in between shifts to second and sometimes third. Other than that I have no complaints.
Originally posted by Zootking
1)the clutch is not covered under the factory warranty (unless its like less than 5k miles on the car)
2)if its the tranny, then you should be covered b/c of the new tranny warranty
3)not sure why its dying between gears, other than a problem w/in your tranny/clutch assembly
4)the "notchiness" everyone complains about, get used to it, its a close ratio transmission and Honda's are known for that "notchiness" in the NSX and S2000...try some new synthetic tranny fluid and it should take out the grinding....
5)I drive probably just as hard on mine as the other guy, but mine seems to be fine, other than the notchiness of course...huh im crossing my fingers that it stays that way.....
Good luck, and dont always believe the dealer, if you know any performance shops in the area, let them take a look at it too....
1)the clutch is not covered under the factory warranty (unless its like less than 5k miles on the car)
2)if its the tranny, then you should be covered b/c of the new tranny warranty
3)not sure why its dying between gears, other than a problem w/in your tranny/clutch assembly
4)the "notchiness" everyone complains about, get used to it, its a close ratio transmission and Honda's are known for that "notchiness" in the NSX and S2000...try some new synthetic tranny fluid and it should take out the grinding....
5)I drive probably just as hard on mine as the other guy, but mine seems to be fine, other than the notchiness of course...huh im crossing my fingers that it stays that way.....
Good luck, and dont always believe the dealer, if you know any performance shops in the area, let them take a look at it too....
#18
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For your flywheel question, if it was the flywheel causing a problem, you might as well install a whole new clutch while your there. You have to take all that out anyway. When they replaced the tranny, I would have paid for a new clutch & had them install it. Cost wouldn't have been much since they already tore the tranny out, maybe an hour more of labor, plus the price of the clutch. I don't think it is related to all this anyway. If your car is sputtering & heasiating I'd pull a spark plug & see if it is fouled. Check your air filter. By what you describe, it doesn't sound like a clutch/flywheel problem. Does it happen when your fully on it shifting, or granny shifting?
#19
Where is my super sauce?
Good advice here.
I've also not heard good things about SM Acura.
As you've had issues with this car's transmission before, I'd have your local dealer contact the Florida dealer, or better yet, personally contact your Acura regional service representative and see if s/he can help mediate the situation.
Let us know what happens.
I've also not heard good things about SM Acura.
As you've had issues with this car's transmission before, I'd have your local dealer contact the Florida dealer, or better yet, personally contact your Acura regional service representative and see if s/he can help mediate the situation.
Let us know what happens.
#20
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Iwantone: Clutches work like brakes, but reversed. When you step on the brake pedal, the pads are squeezed against the rotors and stops the car. The clutch is engaged all the time EXCEPT when you step on the clutch pedal.
The clutch has four main parts. Throwout bearing, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. The clutch disc has the same friction material on both sides of it as the brake pads do.
If the clutch is worn out (no friction material left on it) when 6th gear is selected and the clutch is let out, the engine will continue to run.
If the clutch plate is fine, with the parking brake applied, and the extreme mechanical advantage of 6th gear is selected the pressure plate will grab the disc and kill the engine BECAUSE the clutch plate is still good.
Actually, you can do this in any gear and the results will be the same. Using 6th gear just makes it all the more obvious.
And no, not a smartass question. No such thing as a dumb question. I hope this answers your question.
The clutch has four main parts. Throwout bearing, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. The clutch disc has the same friction material on both sides of it as the brake pads do.
If the clutch is worn out (no friction material left on it) when 6th gear is selected and the clutch is let out, the engine will continue to run.
If the clutch plate is fine, with the parking brake applied, and the extreme mechanical advantage of 6th gear is selected the pressure plate will grab the disc and kill the engine BECAUSE the clutch plate is still good.
Actually, you can do this in any gear and the results will be the same. Using 6th gear just makes it all the more obvious.
And no, not a smartass question. No such thing as a dumb question. I hope this answers your question.
#21
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The problem only occurs when I start at a light in 1st gear and when changing to 2nd gear. Only when the clutch is pressed in partially. Once I am up to speed there is never a problem. Also, the engine cut right off when I was in 6th gear and let the clutch out.
Does anyone have the contact number for Acura Regional? I am going back to Tampa this weekend for the Holidays and will be talking to service manager that was responsible for replacing the tranny to see what they can do for me. I will keep you all posted.
Does anyone have the contact number for Acura Regional? I am going back to Tampa this weekend for the Holidays and will be talking to service manager that was responsible for replacing the tranny to see what they can do for me. I will keep you all posted.
Originally posted by fuzzy02CLS
For your flywheel question, if it was the flywheel causing a problem, you might as well install a whole new clutch while your there. You have to take all that out anyway. When they replaced the tranny, I would have paid for a new clutch & had them install it. Cost wouldn't have been much since they already tore the tranny out, maybe an hour more of labor, plus the price of the clutch. I don't think it is related to all this anyway. If your car is sputtering & heasiating I'd pull a spark plug & see if it is fouled. Check your air filter. By what you describe, it doesn't sound like a clutch/flywheel problem. Does it happen when your fully on it shifting, or granny shifting?
For your flywheel question, if it was the flywheel causing a problem, you might as well install a whole new clutch while your there. You have to take all that out anyway. When they replaced the tranny, I would have paid for a new clutch & had them install it. Cost wouldn't have been much since they already tore the tranny out, maybe an hour more of labor, plus the price of the clutch. I don't think it is related to all this anyway. If your car is sputtering & heasiating I'd pull a spark plug & see if it is fouled. Check your air filter. By what you describe, it doesn't sound like a clutch/flywheel problem. Does it happen when your fully on it shifting, or granny shifting?
#22
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Originally posted by dfreder370
Iwantone: Clutches work like brakes, but reversed. When you step on the brake pedal, the pads are squeezed against the rotors and stops the car. The clutch is engaged all the time EXCEPT when you step on the clutch pedal.
The clutch has four main parts. Throwout bearing, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. The clutch disc has the same friction material on both sides of it as the brake pads do.
If the clutch is worn out (no friction material left on it) when 6th gear is selected and the clutch is let out, the engine will continue to run.
If the clutch plate is fine, with the parking brake applied, and the extreme mechanical advantage of 6th gear is selected the pressure plate will grab the disc and kill the engine BECAUSE the clutch plate is still good.
Actually, you can do this in any gear and the results will be the same. Using 6th gear just makes it all the more obvious.
And no, not a smartass question. No such thing as a dumb question. I hope this answers your question.
Iwantone: Clutches work like brakes, but reversed. When you step on the brake pedal, the pads are squeezed against the rotors and stops the car. The clutch is engaged all the time EXCEPT when you step on the clutch pedal.
The clutch has four main parts. Throwout bearing, flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. The clutch disc has the same friction material on both sides of it as the brake pads do.
If the clutch is worn out (no friction material left on it) when 6th gear is selected and the clutch is let out, the engine will continue to run.
If the clutch plate is fine, with the parking brake applied, and the extreme mechanical advantage of 6th gear is selected the pressure plate will grab the disc and kill the engine BECAUSE the clutch plate is still good.
Actually, you can do this in any gear and the results will be the same. Using 6th gear just makes it all the more obvious.
And no, not a smartass question. No such thing as a dumb question. I hope this answers your question.
Thanks alot.
I bought a 2K2 Maxima 6 speed used with 30K on her. I brought it to the dealer complaining about the clutch and notchy inconsistant shifting. I thought I just sucked at shifting. Anywho the service department said I needed all the parts you described. They took out all the old parts and showed them to me. They clutch disc and pressure plate had many burn marks and the flywheel was warped. They told me this was from abuse and charged me 1000.00. The car runs like a top and shifts like butter in all gears now. I have a claim with North American Nissan for assistance in payment. Thanks for the valuable info.
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Originally posted by fuzzy02CLS
I don't think it is related to all this anyway. If your car is sputtering & heasiating I'd pull a spark plug & see if it is fouled. Check your air filter. By what you describe, it doesn't sound like a clutch/flywheel problem. Does it happen when your fully on it shifting, or granny shifting?
I don't think it is related to all this anyway. If your car is sputtering & heasiating I'd pull a spark plug & see if it is fouled. Check your air filter. By what you describe, it doesn't sound like a clutch/flywheel problem. Does it happen when your fully on it shifting, or granny shifting?
#25
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If you know how to drive a stick, shift correctly and have a good clutch technique, you should be able to get at least 200,000 miles out of a clutch. And that doesn't mean you have to drive like a pussy either.
And NEVER keep the clutch pedal depressed waiting for a stop light. You are putting unnecessary wear and tear on the throw out bearing.
And NEVER keep the clutch pedal depressed waiting for a stop light. You are putting unnecessary wear and tear on the throw out bearing.
#26
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Originally posted by dfreder370
And NEVER keep the clutch pedal depressed waiting for a stop light. You are putting unnecessary wear and tear on the throw out bearing.
And NEVER keep the clutch pedal depressed waiting for a stop light. You are putting unnecessary wear and tear on the throw out bearing.
#27
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Originally posted by ChadT
I hate it when people do that! Even worse is when somebody holds the car on a hill by burning the clutch.
I hate it when people do that! Even worse is when somebody holds the car on a hill by burning the clutch.
#28
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Ok, I obviously need a lesson or 5.
So the quicker I shift the better ?
Shifting at low rpms is better ?
What happens if I chirp tires in 2nd and 3rd ?
Thanks in advance.
So the quicker I shift the better ?
Shifting at low rpms is better ?
What happens if I chirp tires in 2nd and 3rd ?
Thanks in advance.
#29
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Pasedna Acura has treated me very well if you need service ( call a week in advance to get an acura loaner) otherwise youll get a rental.
IwantOne: shifting quick and at low rpms all depends on driving conditions, but shifting at low rpms is usually a no no.
if you are chirping your tires in 2nd and 3rd you either need new tires or your dumping the clutch to quickly when you shift.
Driving a stick isnt about clutch dumping, that shit will kill your car. Its about smoothness.
IwantOne: shifting quick and at low rpms all depends on driving conditions, but shifting at low rpms is usually a no no.
if you are chirping your tires in 2nd and 3rd you either need new tires or your dumping the clutch to quickly when you shift.
Driving a stick isnt about clutch dumping, that shit will kill your car. Its about smoothness.
#30
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Originally posted by sarlacc23
Pasedna Acura has treated me very well if you need service ( call a week in advance to get an acura loaner) otherwise youll get a rental.
IwantOne: shifting quick and at low rpms all depends on driving conditions, but shifting at low rpms is usually a no no.
if you are chirping your tires in 2nd and 3rd you either need new tires or your dumping the clutch to quickly when you shift.
Driving a stick isnt about clutch dumping, that shit will kill your car. Its about smoothness.
Pasedna Acura has treated me very well if you need service ( call a week in advance to get an acura loaner) otherwise youll get a rental.
IwantOne: shifting quick and at low rpms all depends on driving conditions, but shifting at low rpms is usually a no no.
if you are chirping your tires in 2nd and 3rd you either need new tires or your dumping the clutch to quickly when you shift.
Driving a stick isnt about clutch dumping, that shit will kill your car. Its about smoothness.
Ok, it is all about smoothness. I was under the impression that the shorter amount of time I was on the clutch, the better. Thats why I was shifting quickly. Thanks
#31
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Originally posted by IwantOne
In the belly of sarlacc I will suffer 1000 years
Ok, it is all about smoothness. I was under the impression that the shorter amount of time I was on the clutch, the better. Thats why I was shifting quickly. Thanks
In the belly of sarlacc I will suffer 1000 years
Ok, it is all about smoothness. I was under the impression that the shorter amount of time I was on the clutch, the better. Thats why I was shifting quickly. Thanks
What's the belly of sarlacc? Sure sounds funny!
#32
Suzuka Master
Not even for that 1-second stop light...
Originally posted by dfreder370
And NEVER keep the clutch pedal depressed waiting for a stop light. You are putting unnecessary wear and tear on the throw out bearing.
And NEVER keep the clutch pedal depressed waiting for a stop light. You are putting unnecessary wear and tear on the throw out bearing.
Boy, you are sooooo strict!
#33
Suzuka Master
Originally posted by IwantOne
In the belly of sarlacc I will suffer 1000 years
In the belly of sarlacc I will suffer 1000 years
Ok, it is all about smoothness.
That is the 6-speeded matra of Sarlacc. Repeat often to avoid the certain punishment that awaits the nonbelievers!
#34
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Originally posted by IwantOne
In the belly of sarlacc I will suffer 1000 years
Ok, it is all about smoothness. I was under the impression that the shorter amount of time I was on the clutch, the better. Thats why I was shifting quickly. Thanks
In the belly of sarlacc I will suffer 1000 years
Ok, it is all about smoothness. I was under the impression that the shorter amount of time I was on the clutch, the better. Thats why I was shifting quickly. Thanks
Sarlacc was in the middle of the desert on Tantooine. Jabba the Hut sentenced Luke and Han to be thrown into the Belly of Sarlacc and suffer torturous digestion for 1000 years. After a heated battle, Boba Fett was knocked in a subsequented killed. This was in Return of the Jedi. Sarlacc's Avatar is a insignia for Boba Fett, I believe it is called Mandalorian (sp)?
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Yeah we're all nerds here its also my tattoo. And fett wasnt killed....
#36
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Originally posted by IwantOne
Sarlacc was in the middle of the desert on Tantooine. Jabba the Hut sentenced Luke and Han to be thrown into the Belly of Sarlacc and suffer torturous digestion for 1000 years. After a heated battle, Boba Fett was knocked in a subsequented killed. This was in Return of the Jedi. Sarlacc's Avatar is a insignia for Boba Fett, I believe it is called Mandalorian (sp)?
Sarlacc was in the middle of the desert on Tantooine. Jabba the Hut sentenced Luke and Han to be thrown into the Belly of Sarlacc and suffer torturous digestion for 1000 years. After a heated battle, Boba Fett was knocked in a subsequented killed. This was in Return of the Jedi. Sarlacc's Avatar is a insignia for Boba Fett, I believe it is called Mandalorian (sp)?
#37
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EricL: Na, short periods of time are ok. It would just be a crying shame to have to pay $750 in labor to replace a $30 part!
We have three major roads that intersect close together, and if you get a fresh red, 5 minutes is not out of the question.
I have just simply developed the habit of selecting neutral at ANY stoplight and stepping on the brake.
What would you rather have, a very good habit, or "just a little bit" of a bad one?
And on a similiar note, I am constantly breaking student pilots of taxing and controlling speed by being constantly on both brake pedals. Just set the power for 5 mph or so, and steer with your feet, not brake with your feet. I usually break the students of this habit by stopping the lesson and having them take me for a ride in their car. I haven't found one yet who steps both on the gas and the brake at the same time. So, "Why do you do it in the airplane?" Works everytime.
And if you think maintenence is expensive at your Acura dealer, it's twice that at any airport.
We have three major roads that intersect close together, and if you get a fresh red, 5 minutes is not out of the question.
I have just simply developed the habit of selecting neutral at ANY stoplight and stepping on the brake.
What would you rather have, a very good habit, or "just a little bit" of a bad one?
And on a similiar note, I am constantly breaking student pilots of taxing and controlling speed by being constantly on both brake pedals. Just set the power for 5 mph or so, and steer with your feet, not brake with your feet. I usually break the students of this habit by stopping the lesson and having them take me for a ride in their car. I haven't found one yet who steps both on the gas and the brake at the same time. So, "Why do you do it in the airplane?" Works everytime.
And if you think maintenence is expensive at your Acura dealer, it's twice that at any airport.
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