Too many different ways to launch, I need help!
#1
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Too many different ways to launch, I need help!
Okay Ive searched the site, and there are so many ways people say to launch the car at the track to get those precious 2.1-2.2 times.
Im going to the track tonight, but running in 70 degree weather and 90% humidity, friends wanna go.
This is my first time going to the track, with my mods I have (look in the sig) and toyo t1s, how should I launch.... brake torque to 2000rpm, let go of the brake hit the gas 75% for 3/4 then 100% for the last 1/4? Then I know to gateshift at 7200rpm for the rest. Also if Im brake torquing waiting for the red, yellow, green light, wont I fuck up my torque converter. Thanks guys!
Edit: What should I run tonight if im pulling 2.2's in that type of weather, 14.5-14.6?
Im going to the track tonight, but running in 70 degree weather and 90% humidity, friends wanna go.
This is my first time going to the track, with my mods I have (look in the sig) and toyo t1s, how should I launch.... brake torque to 2000rpm, let go of the brake hit the gas 75% for 3/4 then 100% for the last 1/4? Then I know to gateshift at 7200rpm for the rest. Also if Im brake torquing waiting for the red, yellow, green light, wont I fuck up my torque converter. Thanks guys!
Edit: What should I run tonight if im pulling 2.2's in that type of weather, 14.5-14.6?
#2
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just feel the car out, if I were you I'd lower the tire pressure a little bit (too much will hurt your trap speeds), just lower it a bit, then powerbrake, 2K sounds alright, and give it as much throttle as you can without spinning. There's no general rule on tracks because different tracks prep differently, i.e. different amounts of VHT, and also the amount of cars running that night, types of tires (slicks, d/r's, etc.) take different tolls on the tracks... so, just feel the track out man, give her as much gas as u can without spinning, and focus more on not hitting the rev limiter because you will still have a solid trap speed (which to those who know is more important) as it's a true gauge of car's power vs. a car's traction capabilities.
oh yea... and beat my slow, heavy volvo's 13.8 @ 101.5 with a 2.175 60' (run 2 weeks ago)
oh yea... and beat my slow, heavy volvo's 13.8 @ 101.5 with a 2.175 60' (run 2 weeks ago)
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renegade, whats up bro.
Can you shed light on what you mean by gateshifting?
Do you mean you put it in sportshift for the first 3 gears and then put it back in D5?
explain plz
Can you shed light on what you mean by gateshifting?
Do you mean you put it in sportshift for the first 3 gears and then put it back in D5?
explain plz
#6
Suzuka Master
Watch the torque braking duration. Keep to less than 10 seconds.
Originally Posted by Renegade
Also if Im brake torquing waiting for the red, yellow, green light, wont I fuck up my torque converter. Thanks guys!
2001 CL/CLS Service Manual says:
* Do not test stall speed for more than 10 seconds at a time.
#7
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^^ Agree
Don't start your brake torque until the 1st of 3 yellow lights come on. This will limit your brake torque to under 2 seconds.
To be honest I wouldn't even brake torque on your first runs. Lower your front tire pressure to the equivelent of 23psi COLD. Remember when you drive the air within your tires heats up and thus pressure increases. My tire pressure is set at 33 psi COLD for daily driving. By the time I get to the track it is nearly 40 psi, an increase in 7. So to lower my tire pressure to the equivelent of 23psi COLD I drop down to 30 psi since I saw a 7psi increase from the increased temperature. On your first run just go from an idle. Ease into the throttle so you don't break the tires loose. By 40' into the run you should be WOT.
Before my S/C I would always brake torque up to 2250 rpm then quickly get into WOT. Usually my tires would hook me up right away and I'd manage 2.1 60's all night long. Now with the S/C I leave from an idle and ease into the throttle because even then I have trouble getting traction (I need new tires too) but i've managed to still run 2.1 60's without the agressive launch...thanks to the added torque from the boost no doubt.
An added note... Derelict also has a S/C'ed 5AT but he has lightweight SSR Comps and sticky all season tires. At the track recently he brake torqued to just over 1000 rpm and ran back to back 2.0 60' times. I've only ever managed a 2.0 60' once and I've made over 100 passes.
So don't be discouraged if your times suck at first. Launching this heavy FWD car takes practice.
Don't start your brake torque until the 1st of 3 yellow lights come on. This will limit your brake torque to under 2 seconds.
To be honest I wouldn't even brake torque on your first runs. Lower your front tire pressure to the equivelent of 23psi COLD. Remember when you drive the air within your tires heats up and thus pressure increases. My tire pressure is set at 33 psi COLD for daily driving. By the time I get to the track it is nearly 40 psi, an increase in 7. So to lower my tire pressure to the equivelent of 23psi COLD I drop down to 30 psi since I saw a 7psi increase from the increased temperature. On your first run just go from an idle. Ease into the throttle so you don't break the tires loose. By 40' into the run you should be WOT.
Before my S/C I would always brake torque up to 2250 rpm then quickly get into WOT. Usually my tires would hook me up right away and I'd manage 2.1 60's all night long. Now with the S/C I leave from an idle and ease into the throttle because even then I have trouble getting traction (I need new tires too) but i've managed to still run 2.1 60's without the agressive launch...thanks to the added torque from the boost no doubt.
An added note... Derelict also has a S/C'ed 5AT but he has lightweight SSR Comps and sticky all season tires. At the track recently he brake torqued to just over 1000 rpm and ran back to back 2.0 60' times. I've only ever managed a 2.0 60' once and I've made over 100 passes.
So don't be discouraged if your times suck at first. Launching this heavy FWD car takes practice.
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#8
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Originally Posted by JHEIII850Turbo
just feel the car out, if I were you I'd lower the tire pressure a little bit (too much will hurt your trap speeds), just lower it a bit, then powerbrake, 2K sounds alright, and give it as much throttle as you can without spinning. There's no general rule on tracks because different tracks prep differently, i.e. different amounts of VHT, and also the amount of cars running that night, types of tires (slicks, d/r's, etc.) take different tolls on the tracks... so, just feel the track out man, give her as much gas as u can without spinning, and focus more on not hitting the rev limiter because you will still have a solid trap speed (which to those who know is more important) as it's a true gauge of car's power vs. a car's traction capabilities.
oh yea... and beat my slow, heavy volvo's 13.8 @ 101.5 with a 2.175 60' (run 2 weeks ago)
oh yea... and beat my slow, heavy volvo's 13.8 @ 101.5 with a 2.175 60' (run 2 weeks ago)
Oh and my slow, heavy automatic CLS would have smoked your 13.8 @ 101 time
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