Thunk/Thud noise
#1
Thunk/Thud noise
My car is an o3 cl-s 6speed. I just bought XLR8 ISC coils. Everything on the front suspension has been replaced with the exception of rear control arms, sway bar links and sway bar.
When I go over a bump I hear a thud thunk. I just noticed I get the same thud when I turn my car off, I'm thinking I need new motor motors,
Any other thoughts?
When I go over a bump I hear a thud thunk. I just noticed I get the same thud when I turn my car off, I'm thinking I need new motor motors,
Any other thoughts?
#2
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
i would think so bud.. i never heard of a noise when going over bump can be replicated by turning car off. only thin moving when parked IS the motor.. therefore it's a no brainer IMHO. inspect the side mount visually.. if it's ok then u may be looking at the main rear mount, or main front. both are a bitch to do tho. my mechanic just replaced mine when doing the trans cause it's that much of a pita to do.. so he claims.. i'm sure u can geter done tho in a few hrs..
the front and i believe the rear mount ARE connected to a vaccume line which basically works off the motor's vacume to balance out the forces created by the motor. not sure exactly how it's regulated but basically there is bladder inside the mounts and through the use of the air it reduces engine movement a lot.. make SURE you do not have a crack in the lines first before you go buy another mount.
if u check it out and everything looks good I personally would just change both mounts. that way u get it for sure and that way you dont put one good mount in that just finishes off the other old one..
ow i thought there are like 4-5 mounts and have only mentioned the main 3 everyone replaces... as for the other one(s) maybe someone else could chime in
the front and i believe the rear mount ARE connected to a vaccume line which basically works off the motor's vacume to balance out the forces created by the motor. not sure exactly how it's regulated but basically there is bladder inside the mounts and through the use of the air it reduces engine movement a lot.. make SURE you do not have a crack in the lines first before you go buy another mount.
if u check it out and everything looks good I personally would just change both mounts. that way u get it for sure and that way you dont put one good mount in that just finishes off the other old one..
ow i thought there are like 4-5 mounts and have only mentioned the main 3 everyone replaces... as for the other one(s) maybe someone else could chime in
#3
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
I know u said u replaced everything. To me it sounds like a binding cv joint. Do u put ur car in gear to park? I recently did a complete susp rebuild after new struts/shocks revealed the poor condition of the old susp. And i had bad thunk/thud/popping from what i guess was the half shafts. But now all is well. Mounts on these cars are also a constant issue and new mounts are always recommended. Autozone Duralast Golds $120 for pair on 01cls mt. They aren't refurbs from my understanding.
#5
In search of excitement
Could be a problem with your endlinks, when I dropped my car for the first time I had an awful thunk and it was because my endlinks in the rear were hitting something and the front ones broke off due to something. Just a thought.
#6
Instructor
iTrader: (1)
Oh yea, speaking of sway bar. I had a Progress RSB in the rear. and it snapped my bracket that holds it to the chassis. Everytime I went over speed bumps it caused the loose bar to thud back/forth, up/down against my chassis.
There was also some cracking on the chassis where is mounts so for now I just stiffened the dampening and removed the RSB. I had a shop weld the crack but I'm not confident it'll hold the stiffness of the RSB again.
There was also some cracking on the chassis where is mounts so for now I just stiffened the dampening and removed the RSB. I had a shop weld the crack but I'm not confident it'll hold the stiffness of the RSB again.
#7
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
those brackets wil break if u are on the stiff setting.. i went to the no stiff setting and then changed my end links from moog to nascar cause they are cheaper and flex just enough so the bracket doesn't rip..
i ripped 4 out. 2 on either side!!!
now it's fine AMEN i fucking hate the friking problem
i ripped 4 out. 2 on either side!!!
now it's fine AMEN i fucking hate the friking problem
Trending Topics
#9
lowrd on tein CS biatch
iTrader: (2)
no NEVER leave it on bro. put it on the soft setting and just get normal end links..
I live in canada i got the nascar ones from partsource. just don't get beefy ones like moog lol.. they are like 2 xs stronger at least.. if anything just get oem ones. i live in canada tho.. but i'm sure u can get the same thing. u guys are the ones with all options in the us
but i live and die by that rsb.. that changed the car forevr
I live in canada i got the nascar ones from partsource. just don't get beefy ones like moog lol.. they are like 2 xs stronger at least.. if anything just get oem ones. i live in canada tho.. but i'm sure u can get the same thing. u guys are the ones with all options in the us
but i live and die by that rsb.. that changed the car forevr
Last edited by CL-S progression 01; 10-04-2012 at 10:12 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MrHeeltoe
1G TSX Tires, Wheels, & Suspension
20
02-23-2023 01:54 PM
MrHeeltoe
2G TSX Tires, Wheels & Suspension
3
09-29-2015 10:43 PM
MrHeeltoe
3G TL Tires, Wheels & Suspension
0
09-28-2015 05:43 PM