scalbert

Well electrical, cooling and some mechanical. But the final part is tonight which should be all mechanical.

I didn't get started until after 8:00 PM last night and wrapped up this part about 10:00 PM and everything went smooth. I did add some sponge foam insulation on the FPR mounting plate which completely took care of any residual sound.

The first part I tackled was the battery relocation. There was nothing special for this area, it was straight forward. One suggestion though, when complete and re-attaching the negative battery cable, remove the bolt and nut and turn them around to face the opposite direction. This would make it easier to tighten it on the post.



Here is the new overflow bottle:



The next part was the new coolant hose. Another suggestion, try to have a couple of disposable 32 ounce cups like you get at a fast food joint. When un-hooking the stock hose have a cup by the front manifold and you can pour the fluid into the cup and re-use it if desired. This allowed for clean removal and re-install (well mostly, I knocked the cup over on the floor. :o )



I then moved into the car to install the ESM. The directions were fine but the wiring was incorrect (but it also states to refer to the shop manual for actual connections.) I have already wired up to the MAP sensor before so I knew which wire. Pin 27 on the first connector is the MAP signal and then you can use 29 for the ESM ground and 31 for the 5VDC supply. The pics are blurry but you get the idea.





With time left I decided to tackle a part of the project which had to be done and I have removed the alternator pulley enough to make this task easy. So the new pulley and bracket went on. Below you can see how Comptech is driving the SC; through a dual pulley on the alternator. The new pulley is turned by the engine through the stock accessory belt. The SC is turned by a second belt which will be attached to the outside track on the new pulley.

New Pulley and Bracket:



Up Close of the New Pulley:



That is it for now, I should be able to complete the install tonight and go for a test drive...

chikai

beautiful...simply beautiful...

all these forced induction installs are getting me excited.

AtlCl

do i smell another atl meet soon after the install

GreenMonster

Thanks for the update Scalbert

Looks like the install is coming along nicely. Even tho' I would probably never attempt to install the SC myself (if I got one), it's nice to see what's involved in the install.

scalbert

Quite honestly there has not been anything too I wouldn't think that a modest wrencher couldn't handle. In some ways the headers are more difficult, this is just more time consuming.

Jens H.

I would have to agree this is a reasonable installation the only real pain is the AC line that you have to wrestle with by the drive pulley .Nice install Scalbert all those pics look sooooo familiar .
Jens

scalbert

I know what you mean; it always seems to be in the wrong place.

I should note that without air tools the install would be more difficult. Having a 12 inch 1/2 inch extension with the impact gun makes the pulley removal/installation much easier. It is all about having the appropriate tools.

Of which I do not have the bar used on the tensioner. I use a closed end 14mm wrench with a long offset wrench on the open end. It works fine but can pop loose which is not fun on the hands...

Jens H.

Believe it or not I do not really use airtools for much Scalbert and i use the same silly sort of pain in the ass method to get the accessory belt on and off on these engines .I know there is a nice tool I can buy for it but with some practice using an ordinary box wrench it's just as quick .
Jens

xenon7

....a good set of open end wrenchs (shorts and longs) go along way.

I modify old sets (with the torch) too aid in those hard to reach places.

GreenMonster

In following your posts on the install, it doesn't look all that difficult. I have been messing around w/ cars for awhile and have helped my brother w/ his SC'ed tbird, but I always get a bit nervous when wrenching on a $30k car

Pappy

Hey Scalbert, I have to hand it to ya, you have some kind of balls, man, to tackle this yourself. I admire you. Good Luck! How much do you think you will save doing this project yourself?

mdbenge

Scalbert - Thanks for the detailed install pics and your helpful advice. I will never do this to my CL but I still appreciate someone who tackles this type of job.

devnull

Scalbert,

You are now my new hero...

Thanks,

-devnull

scalbert

Well the install went well but I hit a problem. When I started it the idle was nearly dropping out and the only way it would run decent is with a little throttle input. So out came the laptop.

The first thing I noticed was the STFT was at -27.5%; meaning it was running way to rich. The next thing I noticed was that the MAP showed 22.5 inHg, way too high for idle. At first I thought I had a major vacuum leak but that was set to rest when I disconnected the MAP and it stayed at 22.5 inHg. So with the sensor disconnected I jumpered the sensor ground to the input signal and reading went to 0 inHg as expected.

So the ECU input was fine. It is either the sensor or the wiring. I just brought the sensor into the office and placed it on the test bench and it seems to be working fine. With ambient pressure it was reading 2.8VDC and I could vary that signal by add pressure or pulling a vacuum on it.

I guess it is in the wiring. Tonight or tomorrow I'll simulate the signal to the ECU at the ECU and at the sensor with a Fluke calibrator and compare. Then it will be on to tracing the short but most likely it is near the MAP sensor.

scalbert

Once I get this problem solved I will make the final report.

types1967

hey scalbert i sent you a pm so pm me when you read it.good luck on tracing down the issue

Red Rider

Nice report Scalbert, keep the info coming and good luck. Can't wait to see what the difference is !!