When gReddy emanage blue is installed with the boomslang harness..

Does the ESM have to come out? or do we just leave it soldered into the ECU connectors?

Also.. The previous owner had it tuned on his CLS6 w/ Supercharger Standard Pulley..

Are the Base Maps still there? and Could I just use these? I know that I should get it retuned, but I'm just dying to see if it would work wit out any negative consequences.

 

Aight, I understand now.. Seems as if almost anything could be the culprit..

I've started with the simplest things first.. yet the idle problem remains sitting for a while.. Don't know where to go from here..

I feel as if I shouldn't get it tuned yet, since I can't even get it to idle right with out a tune..

 

i would wait on the tune also until the idle is fixed but the tuning shop may be able to give you a hand on whats wrong.

 

Where you plan on getting your car tuned at after the install?

 

right now i think its going to be good vibrations in horsham, pa.

 

Mr Steve, I've just installed the Boost Pressure and Fuel Pressure Guages..

At idle, Boost reads about 10 in Hg Vacuum..
At WOT, Boost goes up to about 7 psi max which I think is not accurate since the standard pulley is only supposed to produce 3.5 - 4 psi..

At idle, Fuel reads 20 or 25 psi.
At WOT, Fuel goes up to about 100 psi.. Is this causing a rich condition?

I'll post a vid of the guages in action, tmrw.

As for my idle problem, I've decided to do a coolant exchange with the machine at the shop I work at.. I have a hunch that if I get all of the air out of the system, the idle we return to normal..

 

You should be at -20 inHg at idle.

With vacuum you should be at 30psi at idle.

Where did you attach the vacuum t-fitting?

 

I'm not sure where you tapped power but here's the fuse panel under the driver side dashboard with open spots perfect for tapping. The "12v Engine On" is where most of us got power for our gauges.

 

Also, I believe I tapped into the vacuum line coming off the bypass valve. It's been so long I can't remember though. I sold my blower back in '05 or '06

 

Oh I see, I see.. Any particular reason why you've sold it? Bored?

But yeah, I tapped the "t" into the vacuum line coming off the bypass valve, with the other end attached at the elbow/intake manifold (can't remember which).

 

Yea, thas where I tapped the power into... at the "12V Engine On." Thanks for double checking, gives me peace of mind.

 

Since my vacuum at idle is off (-10 in Hg), how would you remedy this?

And in your response above, second sentence 'vacuum', did you mean fuel?
If so my fuel pressure is low I guess..
How do you adjust this?

 

No I meant in vacuum. When you disconnect the vacuum line from the FPR you can measure static fuel pressure.

So in vacuum, you should be around -20inHg. Maybe your gauge isn't reading correctly? Buy a cheap manual gauge (~$15) to double check.

To adjust the fuel pressure you need to remove the nut on the set screw on the side of the FPR. There is the nut then a washer. Don't lose the washer! Once you have the nut loosened you can use a hex driver to adjust the FPR. I can't remember which way is higher or lower so play around with it. It helps to have a second set of eyes to look a the gauge when you're playing with it. When you're done tighten it back up. Don't over tighten or you'll damage the washer.

 

Thanks, will do that tmrw after work, and let you know how it goes.

 

So, the Boost Guage should read -20 in HG at idle with the vacuum line from the FPR connected..

and the Boost guage should read 30 psi with the vacuum line disconnected? or Fuel pressure guage?

 

Fuel pressure = 30psi at idle in vacuum.

 

My Fuel Pressure is at 20-28 psi.. I want to adjust it to 30 psi, but do not know if my fuel guage is accurate..

What are the effects of raising and lowering fuel pressure on the dynamics of driveability and safety?

Also, I am convinced my Boost guage is inaccurate or improperly calibrated. My friend with a turbo civic says that he has gone thru 3 autometer boost guages (analog) since they were inaccurate..

I am at -10 in HG, and at max boost I see 7 psi.. This leads me to believe that I am off "10 units, or increments". If I subtract 10 units, at idle it would read -20 in Hg, and max boost would read about 4 psi..

A cause of the inaccuracy may be since I've spliced the wires with electrical tape. If I were to solder these connections would it improve the accuracy of the signal?

I've adjusted the Cruise Control Cable. It seemed as if it was causing the butterfly to stick either at high idle or low idle. Ima have to spray some TB cleaner in the TB.. idle problem seemed to have gone away..

Just in case air in the cooling system was the culprit, I am going to add redline water wetter to the coolant, see if it can help keep things cooler.

The coolant level in the overflow dropped a good amount. I pressure tested the system at 15 psi, and there were no leaks. This leads me to believe that the "drop" in coolant, was actually the displacement of air that was "displaced" with coolant.. The system eventually burped itself out perhaps?

 

Any OBDII code reader (any I've seen anyway) has a real time telemetry option to show active temps and pressures from the ECU. Might not hurt to hook one up and check it out....

 

damn just installed my blower and my car idling high now ill try burping the radiator

 

Thats not the problem.

Check your throttle cables. There should be some slack in the lines to the butterfly. Not much but some.

 

your right i zip tied one of them out the way and when i did i didnt leave enough slack so it was being pulled just enough to send the rpm's up some thanks. now its working perfect just got to get a tune.

 

Glad you got it figured out.

 

yea i know lol