scalbert,... good call on "http://www.obd-2.com", it's almost half the cost and will show as much as Autotap because it also only shows OBDII mandated values.

 

ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature), no exhaust temp stock...

 

Wrong Thread??

 

I would say that it shows about half of what Autotap would show. The things I miss are KR and injector pulse width.

 

for the life of me i cant remember the E but i think it's - coolant temperature

 

engine coolant temp ECT ?

 

Thanks.

 

"and why isn't he working here?"

 

Autotap only shows OBDII mandated values on the import version also, that's why I think it will be the same as the other, but not the same as the GM version. Still almost half the cost.

 

Ah, I see. Then yes, the obd-2.com version is a good deal.

 

if i missed or repeated anything tell me cuz i didn't read everything...but like you guys said comptech never advertised their boost amount. They said their S/C was probably gonna run about 5.5 lbs of boost and give about 310 to the wheels. If scalberts calc. are correct and he's running 4.41(or the accord) then comptech was pretty much in the ballpark. Besides given the higher compression ratio on the Type S (10.5:1) wouldn't you want the boost to stay low. I mean im' sure you can put 6lbs and not worry about frying a ring or detonating or somethin, and i dont know if i missed this but scalbert what is your air fuel ratio around? i thought maybe for a supercharged engine like allmotor was saying you figure you'd want around 14 so this way you reduce the risk of detonation(even though this could happen at any point without forced induction if i'm not mistaken, that just ups the risk). well i'm done blabbing, just curious though

 

You can't really use that unit in our motors as our ECU controlls timing directly (coil per cylinder). Our knock sensor is a little better than those on the B-series motors, although its not really going to pull timing that much.

 

You don't want 14 A/F ratio on an FI motor. A spike to 14.0 is okay when it limited to a 400rpm range. You want the A/F to be in the low 13.xx range.

 

i'll take your word on that you're more educated than i am

 

Why wouldn't you want the ECU to see the boost???

 

Well, I just spoke to Shad at Comptech and discussed this matter. The official boost pressure is 3.0 - 3.5 PSI on the CL-S6. So I am right in the specified range. The original kit was pushing mid 4s but they found that by backing off they made the same or more power.

They suspect that in other regions such as mine, higher boost could be run for more power. So the higher boost pulley will be on the agenda for me.

As it turns out, I am running right where I should be.

I still want to try out a suggestion which Jens had about the IAB valve since I am running a lower temp stat, but that is later.

 

Because it is designed as normally aspirated so anything above ambient would be abnormal.

 

Well now you got my curiosity up again....

1. "They suspect that in other regions such as mine, higher boost could be run for more power."
?? Better fuel quality, elevation,....??

1. IAB valve.......?????

 

Better fuel quality compared to California.

The IAB is the intake air bypass, it is used during cold starts to supply additional air at the injectors. This is supposed to help cold atomization. However, I am running a cold T-Stat and Fan Switch so the IAB might not be closing all of the way. If not it would be dumping some boost back into the intake.

 

Thanks

 

Steve. I saw similiar results where the performance gain from an incremental raise in boost pressure... say 3.5psi to 4.5psi is hardly noticeable. However.. 3.5psi vs. 6.5psi, is a noticeable gain. In terms of power output... pressure-aside, the volume of air forced into the motor plays a role as well. The Comptech blower is a pretty big unit and pushes a pretty large amount of air for a given pressure. One of the things I regret about my turbo kit was that I couldn't use the GT35 turbo... it would have probably made more power at the 5.5psi than the T3/T4... ah well!

 

That is interesting about the small increases. I will be running the smaller pulley soon but I want a few miles registered before then. In the end it makes me feel better as now I do not need to hunt for an problem...

Actually the blower used by Comptech is almost too small for our application. I would have prefered the M90 instead. But the M62 works fine for this application at lower boost levels. It would also keep the costs lower since the same blower is shared with other products.

 

Hey Jens, I isolated the IAB but did not bring home the calibration gauge. I'll try to re-test in the next few days.

Got any good recomendations for one way valves?? I'd like to isolate the EVAP system also as you mentioned. Thanks...

 

Wow, three pages of discussion which was cut short by the answer...

 

could comptech just be making this up?? IMO 4.5 PSI would make a lot more power then 3.5 PSI, no?

sidemarker

 

I was going to put a one-way valve in-line with the EVAP. I was tee'ing my boost-guage from that line, so every now and then during idle it would 'blip'! A one-way should prevent that!

Have you installed your springs yet?

 

Only a dyno will tell!

 

The e-mail he gets back from CompTect: I don't know what the fawk your taking about."

 

good luck scalbert with everything and keep me posted. jens and scalbert

 

Scalbert I will in the course of today into tomorrow make up a list of the various oneway valves I used to accomplish what I did in the Miata.Allow some time I have to install a VORTECH supercharger into an S2000 today and that is eating all my time .Thanks ,Jens

 

I imediately asked, without any other statements, what the boost was supposed to run and the reply was 3.0 - 3.5 PSI. This was a solid response and one I would expect to be correct.

Higher boost would make more power provided there is no knock. But with a little pinging the ECU will back off timing to a point to where power could below the lower boost output.

 

Nope, they are in the box next to the car. That will be soon though. But I need to get some home projects done first or my wife will kill me.

It is ironic how I planned on doing the springs first and ended up slapping on the blower.

 

Thanks for the tip and any information. I planned on measuring the ID of all relevant lines and going to the parts store to find something which would fit all.

Hope you had fun with the S2000 blower install...

 

hey scalbert why am i getting steady 5psi on boost with my auto meter guage hooked up directly to the blower vaccum line and the throttle body i teed it in.and jens used a vaccum guage at work and got same results.what do you think why im getting more boost and could that be why what were talking about the past few days is happening?

 

I'm gonna try hooking up at the same point you are. I teed into the FPR vacuum line which is from the intake manifold. Potentially this could see lower boost levels in the expanded volume.

I'll try this out this weekend and let you know what the results are.

 

I am jealous. that is all.

:fag:

 

Nah, that's not all - you forgot "welcome to page 6!"

 

Jens and Steve talking shop...everyone else step away from the table....

I think you need to tighten the what'iz with the turney clicky thing some more...

 

i doubt you will be for long.

 

Astro's Lucid Dreaming Schedule for this evening:

TLS + 6-speed conversion + S/C + 3.6L (stroked AND BORED)

:P

P.S. -- Astro, will all of the confusion going on with the UN weapons inspections, you might be able to get an al-Samoud rocket motor (modified SA-2 motor) at a steep discount.