Do any of these mods add horsepower? I own 2001 Acura CL Type S. As of right now I am stock. Looking online found these mods, just wanting to know which increase horsepower.

- P2R Thermal Throttle Body Gasket
- P2R Thermal Throttle Body Big Bore
- P2R Throttle Body Spacer
- P2R Intake Manifold Thermal Gasket
- (P2R?) 2009 TL SH-AWD Intake Manifold
- Spyder Cold Air Intake
- P2R J Series V6 Intake Manifold Spacer
- underdrive crank pulley

 

^if you are stock, adding those will net a tiny increase in hp.
probably not enough hp to feel during daily driving.

throttle body spacers dont really do anything...


but otherwise, your list looks good.
upgrade to a bigger throttle body.
upgrade to a bigger intake manifold
upgrade to a larger cold air intake
upgrade the heavy stock crank pulley for a light weight one

but again, these mods alone are expensive and probably arent worth buying for the hp output...

 

3 or 4 Inch Cold air intake, Headers, and manifold mods.

If you don't want to shell out $300+ for the SH-AWD manifold, port and polish your manifold and lower runners. MDX velocity stacks only cost $50 brand new from an oem parts dealer.

I'd suggest:
HEADERS Since you're auto DC's wont gove you any problems, however XS-power has sets for $260 shipped. Quality looks ok.
Huge Intake
Ported IM and bored TB
Ported lower runners
MDX Stacks
IM Spacer & Thermal Gaskets
High Flow Cat ( Don't get a direct fit bolt in one for our cars, get a cheaper universal one and have it welded in. Saves you $$$)
Crank Pulley (Ebay ones are cheap, but not guaranteed to be balanced. XLR8 Sells a stock diameter (don't have to change belts) Lightweight Crank Pulley that is actually lighter than the ebay underdrive ones. Its manufactured by Unorthodox Racing and is zero balanced.

 

get DC headers and the pulley to start.

 

Right there you're looking at $500-$700 and adding MAYBE 30whp.

The real gains for our cars come out of professional headwork, as much intake as possible, and tuning.

(was referring to my first post not your post gnuts)

 

Forgot to explain the MDX stacks. They pair well with a ported IM and IM spacer. The stacks add torque where we need it, so does the spacer.

No real point in the P2R TB Spacer or Gaskets, get the Intake Manifold Gaskets and you'll be set.

Also in order to go with a larger TB you either need to bore the crap out of the Intake manifold throat so it doesn't render your larger TB useless, or cut and weld on adapters and such.

I want to weld a 90mm Q45 TB to my Mani

 

I think you're right 01, but he's an auto and how much he wants to drop into the car knowing the tranny issues.

DC headers are 380 from heeltoe. pulley on Ebay is under 50 last I checked. plus he'll want some big Sun glasses to look at his wheels without burning his retina. jk.

 

I just got a pulley on ebay for $27 shipped.

 

Then after I bought it Paul told me to stay away from ebay pulleys lol. Hesitant to put it on now.

That's besides the point, lets not start the option vs. unorthodox war in this thread.

 

I think many people have been fine with the eBay pulley so don't worry about that

 

Headers, pulley & intake = done.

The problems with the other things like the intake manifold & bigger TB is lack of tuning ability.
It will net you a small increase but to take advantage of those mods potential you need to tune it. Sadly that isn't available easily.

On the option pully... 60K trouble free miles on mine & there are others that have more then that.

 

I had a new tranny put in a couple months ago @gnuts.

I was thinking of going to the local tuning shop here where they can give me an estimate on a custom exhaust setup. I want to have a single outlet exhaust system with a titanium stained tip exhaust. I was looking at wanting to try and make about 260whp-300whp, have fun with the car, than sell it within this next year or so.

 

that's good but doesn't mean it won't go again soon. If you're going to sell it within a year or two then don't put a lot of $ into it. There's a guy on here (auto) with about every bolt on who dynoed less than 250whp. It's going to take some good $ to get 300whp on an auto. Without sounding like a parent i would say save your money for something else.

 

I had almost all bolt on's & a 6MT & only made 255. The problem as I said is tuning. The stock ECU's fuel & timing maps can only go so far.

 

If you're selling it that soon, I wouldn't even do all those mods. I've had my car for almost 7 years now and I've only done headers and intake resonator removal for power mods.

Think of how much the car is worth right now, how much the mods are going to cost and how much you can get back on the car plus mods when you sell it. I'd just save up my money for the next car.

 

Or save for 6MT Swap!!!

Don't want to see anymore 2G owners leaving. I just got back guys

 

Partially thread jacking while still staying on topic and providing relevant information:

XLR8 Lightweight Crank Pulley - $220

Ebay Lightweight Underdrive Crank Pulley - $27 Shipped.

Here's a pic of the Ebay pulley I got in the mail today. The two notches that you see in the pulley seem to be intentional, I'm guessing that they did at least some form of balancing.



I called Ptuning in Manassas, VA asking if they could check the balance of a crank pulley for me. They referred me to C&C Performance in Manassas, VA right across the street from them.

C&C Performance said that they absolutely have all the required experience and equipment to test a crank pulley, and balance it if required. He said balancing an aluminum pulley would be no more than $50.

The point? $27 + $50 = $77 for a zero balanced pulley, versus XLR8's $220 Unorthodox Pulley.

I know alot of people here have never had a problem with ebay pulley's. I had one on my first car (01 CL Type-S) and about a year after putting the pulley on the engine blew up for unknown reasons. I did some research after what Paul told me over the phone about ebay pulleys. If a pulley is out of balance AT ALL, it will transmit vibrations to the crankshaft. These vibrations over time cause wear on the Main Bearing and Rod Bearings. This means that IF your ebay pulley is ever so slightly out of balance, your crank and rods could go at any time.

I always attributed the unexpected death of my first CL to an oil pump failure. Now, with the new knowledge I've just acquired you can add an unbalanced ebay pulley to the list of possible causes of my engine blowing up. I am not saying at all this is the definitive answer to why my engine blew up. (sent a rod through the block, my mom was driving it)

Sorry for the long winded rant. I'll be visiting C&C performance in Manassas, VA tomorrow and will report back with my testing of the Ebay pulley. For peace of mind, I don't think I'd have a problem paying $50 to have it professionally zero balanced. $77 for whats pretty much as reliable as an Unorthodox Pulley, Tested and Balanced before my very eyes seems like a good deal to me.

/endrant

Sorry, hope everyone finds this info useful.

 

I don't really see the point in modding it if you will only keep it 1 year. You will only recoup half of what you spend if even that.

You also have the crappy auto so 6 speed swap would be my first mod, but again pointless if you will only have it a year.

I disagree with what fuzzy said. You can make almost 300whp with a stock internal 3.2 and bolt ons without a tune. Tune will help but is not necessary for just bolt ons and porting/polishing.

Bigger intake, bored tb or aftermarket b series tb. Stock IM neck can only be ported to 71 or 72mm. You can open the flange part up to 74mm. You can go with a 72 or 74mm b series tb. Anything bigger will require 09 tl IM. Port/polish IM and runners. P2r plenums or plenum spacers with mdx horns. Lightweight pulley. Aftermarket or custom headers. Custom exhaust. You can make car faster by removing some weight also. Lighter wheels, removing unwanted vibration dampers, etc.

 

01CLinprocess do you have the link for the crank pulley? I just want to make sure I order the correct one. Also does that one have the same diameter as stock? or would I have to order a smaller belt to?

 

The ebay pulley is underdrive meaning you'll need a smaller belt. Only xlr8 sells a stock sized pulley.

 

Gnuts is correct. I'll post the link and belt sizes when I get home.

 

Ebay Links:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Accord-3-0L-V6-98-02-Pulley-Pulleys-/230946510022?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35c57c14c6
Same seller also sells an "acura" one for $2 more..... its the same thing as the honda v6 one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acura-CL-TL-Inc-Type-S-97-02-Under-Drive-Underdrive-Pulley-Pulleys-Polished-UD-/231064827120?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cc8974f0
Buy the first one.

Belt sizes:

Metric: 6PK1120 and 4PK1079 (or 4PK1080)

Goodyear Part #'s: 4060440 and 4040425

Or Dayco's from your local Advance Auto: 5060440 and 5040425

 

why not replace all three pulleys?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230978592228...84.m1439.l2649

i bought this a few weeks ago, just haven't had a chance to put them on.

after reading what 01CLinprocess said, im going to find a machine shop to make sure all three are balanced properly.

next on my list is headers and the xlr8 test pipe.

 

If I had $200 to spend on pulleys I'd just get the XLR8 UD one. The point of the ebay one is its $27, and if you go and get it zero balanced, under $80.

 

Why not get all three? I read all over everyone only replaces the crank pulley, why not all three?

 

The other two are really only for cosmetics. The performance comes from the crank pulley only.

 

I have a three year warranty on the transmission, lol. Anyways, I wanted to mod the car because I feel it has potential, however we are limited to what mods we can do. This car doesn't have a bunch of mods like other cars. A guy I know has a 3.5TL Type S Manual. Makes my car look like crap, I would get one, however, they run about $18-20k, which for that amount of money I can buy a subaru or something that has a set list of mods I can do. lol.

 

Yeah that's the problem I saw too. I was looking for a newer 3.5 or 3.7 TLS manual. The price of those cars are way high, & aftermarket sucks.

BTW I remember we had the discussion several years ago on the pulley & it was brought up the 3.2 engine is internally balanced. So having the crank pulley zero balanced has little to no effect on that. Hence why it doesn't have a traditional dampener attached to it. I think that was the discussion anyway. Been a while.

 

Your mom blew up your engine?! What was her story?

 

But a Subaru will break all day every week unlike the Acura which will accept you beating the absolute shit out of it every single day .