CL-Future

Having a weird starting problem. Car turns over just fine and starts but then immediately dies. I don't think it's power/battery related because all lights light up fine. It doesn't struggle to start either. It starts and then just dies. I've been able to rev it to give it some gas and it idles for about 30 seconds and then eventually dies again. Any thoughts on what it could be? Just started doing this all of a sudden after driving it fine for the entire day.

JBlueCLS6

iTrader: (2)

Check both your crank sensors.

amerikonass

check main relay and ignition switch. mine used to not turn on during the hot weather (or sometimes even cold) also, it used to just die while driving. I changed both, paid 50$ for the main relay, $50 for switch and I changed it myself. Thanks to acurazine, I got all info how to do it here.

CL-Future

Here's a vid of what it's doing. I haven't been able to really check out too much. I just got back in from out of town yesterday

Starting Woes

I probably wont have time to thoroughly test some things until this weekend.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Any CELs? Are you sure your fuel pump is operating properly?

CL-Future

Not sure about the fuel pump. Now that you mention it, I haven't heard it prime before starting the car. I dont know if I just haven't paid attention or what but usually I do notice it.

I do have CEL's (last I checked it was just misfires) but haven't hooked up the laptop to run them recently. I'll have to do that.

black_type-s

check your idle air control valve

crank sensors will throw a CEL

fuel pump should hesitate before going out

for your misfires, just disconnect your coils one at a time and reconnect, they should all make your engine shake harder when each one is disconnected, when you disconnect one of them and it doesnt shake harder, that coil pack is bad and replace that one only

unnecessary to buy 6 coils for $300

CL-Future

Thanks for the suggestions guys. Cars suck. I make it home from work and gave it a shot and it started right up. My guess is the main relay (as mentioned above by someone) since the weather has cooled off a bit from raining earlier in the day. It was a little cooler today when it started up. The other days it was HOT. I pulled the main relay and it looks fine though, no cracks or anything in the soldering spots, looks brand freaking new. Should I still replace it? WTF

Also, I did run the codes and of course had misfire codes but also had P1457 (Leak in EVAP) and P0420 (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold). I'm not too worried about the 0420 code. Also had a P1399 code which could be a bad coil pack or EGR issues. Either way I can troubleshoot the codes later. I think the root cause of the starting problems were the main relay.

civicdrivr

iTrader: (9)

Thats odd. I thought if the main relay was acting up it wouldnt start at all.

I know there was a TSB for the Accords regarding the fuel rails and how the car is difficult to start in hot weather. It didnt cover the CL, but I dont believe there is a difference in the fuel rail design. I wonder if that might have something to do with it.

CL-Future

I would think the same thing about the main relay. It's all very weird. But it can't just be coincidence that it started once it cooled off a bit. I've driven it before when it's hot. I dont know.

I did plan on revamping the fuel system (rails, injectors) because I haven't been the best when it's come to maintenance on my car lately but now that I have some free time I can get to it. Hopefully it holds up until then.

black_type-s

like i mentioned before

Start and Stall
Most IAC failures manifest themselves as a start-and-stall condition. Generally speaking, the engine will catch and run for a second or two, stutter and die. IAC-related start-and-stop conditions can be easily differentiated from fuel-related issues; during IAC-related stalling, applying throttle in light pulses may prolong engine failure, but will not prevent it. Applying throttle while facing fuel-related failure will result in immediate stalling.



Read more: Signs and Symptoms of a Bad Idle Air Control Sensor | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/list_6046295_sig...#ixzz1OQM5RSMw

CL-Future

Finally had some time to swap out the new IACV today. The car started working again a week ago with the old one on there but the problem occured again today where it just stalled on me while driving and I couldn't start it back up for about 15 minutes. After swapping out the part today I did see a lot of grime and carbon buildup in the old part. I have pics but I'm not sure if you'll be able to see in detail what I'm talking about. Car started up and started surging between idle and about 1500rpms but after resetting the ECU it went back to normal. I'll update in about a week to verify that fixed it.

black_type-s

im glad everything worked out, everything still good?