This might be a stupid question but I need to know before I fuck things up....which I have a great tendency to do so.

Is there any hints to remove the old plugs/coil? I think the black thing bolted down on top of spark plug is "coil"??? and all you have to do is un-bolt it and pull it out to get to the plugs? Any special care should I be attentive to?

Sorry I ask but I have never worked on a car with individual coil before..thanks.

 

The factory platinum plugs are good for 100K miles. Any after market plugs are not going to increase the performance

 

IMO, for the hardcore drivers (racers :P) You will notice a difference changing them every 3yr/36k. This is mostly due to fuel deposits, additives in the oil and or dirty air (smog, dust, etc).

Note, that in most cases you can clean any deposit build up you may have and reuse them. This used to be a common practice.

Also, there is some, albight minimal benefit to 4-way, splitfire type designs that help increase spark and or provide a consistent spark under a broad range of conditions.

Ruf

 

Dude, that's great and all....but anyone care to get back to my questions?

 

Nothing difficult or out of the ordinary. Just an allen wrench for the coils and a 6 inch entension for the plug socket is all that is needed.

 

Could worn plugs cause a slight hesation at lower RPM's? My car sometime has this in the lower gears 1-2-3. The car kinda bucks a little also. It happens with all types of gas, so I don't think it's that. It just started maybe a month ago too. Maybe I'll pull a plug this weekend & check it.

 

IMO -
Doesn't sound like plugs to me. Plugs would tend to missfire and cause rough idle, and under acceleration it would feel more . . . jerky, or sort of like an ongoing hesitation feeling. But not the initial hesitation when you give it gas. That's typically fuel or airflow, or spark timing related.

How many miles do you have and do you buy gas at older or run down gas stations? I'd suggest you try a quality injector cleaner first, and depending on how bad they are it may take 2 treatments. If it's really bad you may need to have them cleaned at a shop.

And check your airfilter, if it's really dirty or wet it can cause a hesitation. Basically because the engine is getting fuel, but not the required air and a 'bog' or hesitation can occur.

Ruf

 

I don't think it's any of that stuff. As said I get gas from many places, I just cleaned the Ice Box filter(it wasn't dirty), & only have 12K miles.

 

ok, you may want to check out this thread then . . .

http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showt...hreadid=117530

hope that's not the case for you . . .

Ruf

 

No I had that problem already. see the post

 

Sorry, guy. I'm out of any other thoughts.

I wonder since I understood you already had that problem, could something else have been screwed up?

Was yours fixed before a slippage occured?

Ruf

 

Changed mine a month ago. Very easy except the one closest to the enginebay fuse box and firewall (on the left facing the car). I didn't bother to remove the strut bar. Disconnected the battery..because.

As usual: do one at a time, hand torque till snug, then tighten with turn-clicky-thing.

 

hey did you get you Denso Iridium spark plugs from a regular part store?

 

dont you have to wait for the spark plugs to get cold before you remove them

 

and you got to pull the BLOWER... right Steve?...

HOLY CRAP ... this thread is old.

 

wow, wtf is with all these people resurecting year old threads....

 

Metric size for allen wrench on 2001 CLs is ____?
Foot lb torque is ____?

scalbert I've looked for a good repair book. Forget it. Do you know of one thats written in English and has basic stuff in it?

RaleighNC wrote:
<Changed mine a month ago. Very easy except the one closest to the enginebay fuse box and firewall (on the left facing the car). I didn't bother to remove the strut bar. Disconnected the battery..because.

As usual: do one at a time, hand torque till snug, then tighten with turn-clicky-thing.>