Whats your opinions??

It kinda makes sense..

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/97-03...spagenameZWDVW

http://www.gofastperformance.com/pro...oducts_id/5104

 

 

So im guessing it dosnt work then... Nevermind...

 

Realistically, I don't see how you could get much power out of that. Especially not 6-8hp... Well, maybe, but only to the crank. That would yield about 1.2-1.6 WHP considering a 20% loss via the drivetrain. Not even worth the time even IF it did work IMHO.

Now... If you were doing the OE TB spacer kit, then it might be something to consider but only if you're doing it at the same time while you aready have everything apart. Thats my

EDIT: This might be a qood question for guys that know the J32A2 motor real well such as... CleanCL, typeR, MrSteve, etc.

 

It does in fact work but 6-8 hp at the wheels is a little much.

 

Oh yeah I knew it wouldn't be that kind of HP added. I was lookin more along the line's of it helping it keep the air cool passing through the TB and maybe a slight differance. Is it possible???

 

Like I said, it might not be a bad idea if you are doing other cooling mods as well such as the OE TB spacer kit and I think there is also a Mugen thermostat and radiator cap as well. Might have to do some searching on the Mugen stuff though for accuracy.

 

So there is a slight improvment then???

 

True.. I did look in to the Mugen cooling but I just dont want to mess anything up. I read the DIY and it said if you don't do the procedure fast then it could be bad... Air getting in the cooling system or something...

 

I've read something like that too. You just need to have someone that knows what they are doing help you. Don't quote me, but I want to say it was more of a air causing rust issue.

On a hot day in CO, I will tell you that the CL would probably benefit from all the cooling mods. It can be a total dog once it gets hot.

 

That is also very true.. Ill try it finding someone that knows about that stuff, and I forget the site that has the TB spacer. Would you happen to know??

 

I don't off hand, Chris I'm sorry. Maybe send Exelerate a PM. He's an official vendor here and he might carry it or know where to get it. He might be able to get you a decent price too.

 

The bypass line comes with the outlaw spacers... www.outlawengineering.com

I have it...it works just fine...with all the other cooling mods...check it out before you decide to buy something else

 

Haha, you da man, GM#2.

 

Thank you.. I will check that out for sure.. Hey Chris, if you want to upgrade your sound system or ever need a 65' tv or what ever... I work at Best Buy now and Ill hook you up.. Just PM or if you have my number still if you ever want something.

And thanks also...

 

This is a mod that may people did on their SHOs (and many other cars). You may notice a very slight improvement in throttle response but that's about it. And even then it just prevents it until the intake heatsoat sets in. The coolant is circulated through the throttle body to prevent it from icing shut in the winter. This means you will have to switch things back to route the coolant through the throttle body again come winter (unless you live in a warm climate area like Texas). There's no reason to pay the money for these parts. You can do it yourself with a little high-temp rubber tubing and maybe a connector. Most like to get some PVC caps to cover the old coolant route. Although it's not the CL (it's an SHO engine) this is how you would go about re-routing the coolant. Very simple to do.

 

Thanks, Chris. Maybe I'll hit you up when I'm ready to upgrade my home theater system. Been thinking about a HK or Onkyo receiver and possibly a DLP. I got a Jeep to build first though.

 

Can't veiw the page w/o a login.

 

Sorry about it. Here it is....

 

I believe I first read about this in the TSX forums.....I seem to remember a few of them doing it and even posting a DIY.....might be worth a search. Clinton

 

dudes, you can do this mod for free. i dont understand why people market this and make money on it.

step 1. remove both coolant hoses to your throttle body
step 2. remove ONE coolant hose from your engine block
step 3. connect the SECOND remaining hose to the empty spout created in step 2 on the engine block

my technical lesson for the week.

 

See it's just that easy to do. Remember to put it back in the winter. Although some people don't have problems, you will find that if your not doing lots of stop and go driving you will have some sticky throttle response (or in some cases it can freeze open and cause your engine to rev like crazy).

 

i've been running it all winter. i havent noticed any major issues.

 

Yeah I know many people run it all winter with no issues but there are those that do have problems and you might as well save yourself the hassle (and save yourself from chancing throttle sticking issues) and reverse it in the winter.

 

At first I didn't use the bypass. I put it on after a few months with just the spacers. I saw no difference at all. But then again I saw zero difference with the spacers as well.
But it's above 75 80% of the year & above 90 the other 20% here.

 

The only difference I've seen with all the cooling mods on is that the temp gauge is extremely low when it's cold outside and well below normal cooling when it is under heavy "lead foot" syndrome

 

quoting myself...oh well...

I have reason to believe with the engine temps being a lot cooler than they used to that heat soaking from the engine is barely noticeable. So the horsepower should be always readily available.

 

Cool idea. I may go do this real quick.