Shawn.m 01 Cl-S updates and go fast
#81
Instructor
Thread Starter
So got the denso O2 sensor today.
Really excited as it looks shorter than the Bosch one that I have on it right now. Will take pictures tonight.
Go my magnifie filters also. Will be interested to see how much that helps.
Might go back to the jdm throttle body as its tps is removable. Still have this stumble in the first 5 minutes. See what happens with new o2 sensor first.
Maybe try swapping fuel pressure regulators
Really excited as it looks shorter than the Bosch one that I have on it right now. Will take pictures tonight.
Go my magnifie filters also. Will be interested to see how much that helps.
Might go back to the jdm throttle body as its tps is removable. Still have this stumble in the first 5 minutes. See what happens with new o2 sensor first.
Maybe try swapping fuel pressure regulators
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01acls (03-25-2016)
#82
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
The link below is an old 2004 thread; however, it may shed some light on your 'Stumble' issue. ![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...tumble-455668/
I can tell you this, though. I bought my car (CL-S6) new back in Aug 2002 and when I would go out in the morning, start the car, and immediately start a normal drive to work, it would 'stumble'. The stumble would present intermittently as I cruised from stop light to stop light and eventually work its self out as it warmed up (which was quick here in FL).
Then one day, I had to leave the car running, from a cold start in the morning, in the driveway to attend to something in the yard. In short, it must have sat there for at least five minutes or more idling. Then when I got in the car to drive to work, I distinctly noticed that there was no 'stumbling' going on and the car ran smooth. Ever since, I have let the car idle, until I notice the 'temp' gauge reach about the 4th or 5th notch and then drive away 'stumble' free.
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
https://acurazine.com/forums/second-...tumble-455668/
I can tell you this, though. I bought my car (CL-S6) new back in Aug 2002 and when I would go out in the morning, start the car, and immediately start a normal drive to work, it would 'stumble'. The stumble would present intermittently as I cruised from stop light to stop light and eventually work its self out as it warmed up (which was quick here in FL).
Then one day, I had to leave the car running, from a cold start in the morning, in the driveway to attend to something in the yard. In short, it must have sat there for at least five minutes or more idling. Then when I got in the car to drive to work, I distinctly noticed that there was no 'stumbling' going on and the car ran smooth. Ever since, I have let the car idle, until I notice the 'temp' gauge reach about the 4th or 5th notch and then drive away 'stumble' free.
![Dunno](https://acurazine.com/forums/images/smilies/dunno.gif)
#84
Instructor
Thread Starter
Well the issue is much worse in the first 5 minutes - however I have also had it happen 10-20 minutes into my drive.
Using the torque app i can see the O2 go into closed loop - the stumble is worse before it warms up. I keep getting P0132 codes. basically bad O2 sensor. So will replace it tonight and see how much that helps.
I already cleaned out the IAC and the throttle blade area.
I do have the heater hose blocked off to the throttle body. so mine will take a few more minutes to warm up.
I am getting a grinding noise in front while turning right. Pulled wheel off last night on drivers side and dont see a rub mark. however, the CV joint that i repaired failed bad. CV grease everywhere. will go pick that up at lunch.
Using the torque app i can see the O2 go into closed loop - the stumble is worse before it warms up. I keep getting P0132 codes. basically bad O2 sensor. So will replace it tonight and see how much that helps.
I already cleaned out the IAC and the throttle blade area.
I do have the heater hose blocked off to the throttle body. so mine will take a few more minutes to warm up.
I am getting a grinding noise in front while turning right. Pulled wheel off last night on drivers side and dont see a rub mark. however, the CV joint that i repaired failed bad. CV grease everywhere. will go pick that up at lunch.
#85
Instructor
Thread Starter
So threw in new cv axle. Tightened up the lower control arm ball joint a lot more this time. It basically sat their at 40 ft lbs for almost 2 full turns,
Threw in the new denso O2 sensor. Will add a picture showing how much shorter it is. That 1/2 in length shorter was huge.
Added the magnifie filter in front of the radiator as that made the most sense.
Dropped the fluid and put in three quarts of redline d4. Fluid was a little dark
Will do three more quarts later this week to clean it up,even more.
Pulled clock fuse to clear computer.
No bog now. Ran even better after 15 minutes. No big after multiple shut down and starts. No bog and it shifts even better.
The stupid vsa lght is still on. Tried to pull codes and didn't do it. No codes showed.
Will do it again tomorrow again.
Now the blend door is popping. Need to order one of those next.
It is a relief to drive it and no bog and no funny grinding noises.
Threw in the new denso O2 sensor. Will add a picture showing how much shorter it is. That 1/2 in length shorter was huge.
Added the magnifie filter in front of the radiator as that made the most sense.
Dropped the fluid and put in three quarts of redline d4. Fluid was a little dark
Will do three more quarts later this week to clean it up,even more.
Pulled clock fuse to clear computer.
No bog now. Ran even better after 15 minutes. No big after multiple shut down and starts. No bog and it shifts even better.
The stupid vsa lght is still on. Tried to pull codes and didn't do it. No codes showed.
Will do it again tomorrow again.
Now the blend door is popping. Need to order one of those next.
It is a relief to drive it and no bog and no funny grinding noises.
#86
Instructor
Thread Starter
Tl is basically all together. Only thing left is battery tray, intake, fluids, and verify no leaks.
Went back together pretty good last night. Pretty excited to get this car crossed off he list and then onto my wife's f150.
I did the full code clear again and got the abs codes to clear completly. The vsa light is still on. Service manual says that means possible issue with vsa controller. Vsa controller is like $30 or so on eBay. Tested abs in my gravel driveway and it works very well.
So really the vsa system means nothing at this moment beside irritation at the stupid light. Will see how it does on this mornings 110 more round trip commute.
Went back together pretty good last night. Pretty excited to get this car crossed off he list and then onto my wife's f150.
I did the full code clear again and got the abs codes to clear completly. The vsa light is still on. Service manual says that means possible issue with vsa controller. Vsa controller is like $30 or so on eBay. Tested abs in my gravel driveway and it works very well.
So really the vsa system means nothing at this moment beside irritation at the stupid light. Will see how it does on this mornings 110 more round trip commute.
#87
Instructor
Thread Starter
Finished tl tonight and drive in in the driveway. Power steering pump is making noises.
No leaks and everything else worked.
Will do a longer drive tomorrow and see what it's like to drive with the cls tranny.
Cl is driving just fine on my 110 mile commute. 24mpg hand figured. Ac works ! Like that also. Going to do ne more tranny fluid change tomorrow.
Need to get my torque app configured so I can start doing some 0-60 runs. Maybe run over to sac raceway and do some 1/4 rules
No leaks and everything else worked.
Will do a longer drive tomorrow and see what it's like to drive with the cls tranny.
Cl is driving just fine on my 110 mile commute. 24mpg hand figured. Ac works ! Like that also. Going to do ne more tranny fluid change tomorrow.
Need to get my torque app configured so I can start doing some 0-60 runs. Maybe run over to sac raceway and do some 1/4 rules
#88
Instructor
Thread Starter
Filled the tl power steering up as it was low after yesterday's drive.
Once it was filled up all the way no noises.
It's pretty peppy with the new cl tranny. Driving experience is a different as the suspension is so soft compared to the cl s. Tl is really peppy .. Feels almost as fast as cl. Which is really disheartening considering how much work has gone into the cl
Maybe I will drive it to work Monday before I give it to my son.
I really need to drive a cls from some one else to see how it compares to mine.
Once it was filled up all the way no noises.
It's pretty peppy with the new cl tranny. Driving experience is a different as the suspension is so soft compared to the cl s. Tl is really peppy .. Feels almost as fast as cl. Which is really disheartening considering how much work has gone into the cl
Maybe I will drive it to work Monday before I give it to my son.
I really need to drive a cls from some one else to see how it compares to mine.
#90
Instructor
Thread Starter
Drove up to Reno and back. Got 27mpg.
Still thinking its a little underpowered, almost like a sensor is still off. I have been watching the numbers on the torque app. The interesting thing is how low the vacuum goes - like under 5 psi at less than 50% throttle.
Dropped tranny oil and did a 3 quart refill tonight.
Then spent a frustrating hour and half taking the blend door off, split it in half, clean it out and reseat the gears. Then sit their under the dash putting the door motor back on while holding it in the tracks.
Got it after a bunch of fumbling around. Verified it all works.
Will see how it works tomorrow on my commute.
Bought a holder for the CAI at summit racing, will mount that in a little bit.
Still thinking its a little underpowered, almost like a sensor is still off. I have been watching the numbers on the torque app. The interesting thing is how low the vacuum goes - like under 5 psi at less than 50% throttle.
Dropped tranny oil and did a 3 quart refill tonight.
Then spent a frustrating hour and half taking the blend door off, split it in half, clean it out and reseat the gears. Then sit their under the dash putting the door motor back on while holding it in the tracks.
Got it after a bunch of fumbling around. Verified it all works.
Will see how it works tomorrow on my commute.
Bought a holder for the CAI at summit racing, will mount that in a little bit.
#91
Instructor
Thread Starter
Hot cold air works better - another small thing to check off the list.
ordered a used ABS computer off Ebay. Should be here next week. see if that fixes the blasted VSA light.
then might research removing VSA completly
tranny is shifting better with fluid change - it was not pure red yet. so maybe one more fluid change in a week to finish that up.
Thinking on how to fix the seat belts so that the metal male portion on the belt does not slide all the way down. Their was a button their at one point. Acura would probably have you buy the whole seat belt. have to research if any other suggestions. I have some plastic rivets from my golf cart that should work in the existing hole in the belt. Or just order new ones.
ordered a used ABS computer off Ebay. Should be here next week. see if that fixes the blasted VSA light.
then might research removing VSA completly
tranny is shifting better with fluid change - it was not pure red yet. so maybe one more fluid change in a week to finish that up.
Thinking on how to fix the seat belts so that the metal male portion on the belt does not slide all the way down. Their was a button their at one point. Acura would probably have you buy the whole seat belt. have to research if any other suggestions. I have some plastic rivets from my golf cart that should work in the existing hole in the belt. Or just order new ones.
#92
Drifting
Seat belts have a life time warranty. You might want to ask the dealership about that.
VSA, you need to clear the DTC first before the light will stay off if indeed you fixed the problem. Dealership might have a better scanning tool for clearing vsa codes.
VSA, you need to clear the DTC first before the light will stay off if indeed you fixed the problem. Dealership might have a better scanning tool for clearing vsa codes.
#93
Instructor
Thread Starter
got bored at lunch and ran over to picknpul - they just got a 03 cl in
so pulled both rear taillights, fuel pressure regulator, another rear view mirror, intake duct for the TL, set of brand new front brake shows, bunch of fuses, 1 large relay
need to decide if i want to switch to the newer style rear tail lights. will have to test fit them and see what i think
might go back and get the brown wood trim to replace the black wood trim in my car.
so pulled both rear taillights, fuel pressure regulator, another rear view mirror, intake duct for the TL, set of brand new front brake shows, bunch of fuses, 1 large relay
need to decide if i want to switch to the newer style rear tail lights. will have to test fit them and see what i think
might go back and get the brown wood trim to replace the black wood trim in my car.
#94
Instructor
Thread Starter
Abs computer cleared the triangle. Much better. Vsa works now.
Really weird in to feel it check on a corner as I go hard.
Need to do another fluid change on tranny this weekend.
CD player took a crap so Might order a new double do stearo and new rear speakers. I thought their was a wiring harness so I don't have to cut the stock harness.
Hit a really god bump in my road. Feels like front right strut blew. So pricing replacements
Really weird in to feel it check on a corner as I go hard.
Need to do another fluid change on tranny this weekend.
CD player took a crap so Might order a new double do stearo and new rear speakers. I thought their was a wiring harness so I don't have to cut the stock harness.
Hit a really god bump in my road. Feels like front right strut blew. So pricing replacements
#96
Instructor
Thread Starter
smogged it
well I removed the intake put stock one one, removed header and put stock header and JPipe back on. Then removed lowered suspension and put stock springs and struts on.
Cleaned the snot out of it inside and out. Looks pretty !
The funny thing is that when I removed the OBX header I had some blow by on the head pipes to Jpipe. Didn't think much of it.
However, the car is running even better ! low throttle cruising is much better. Feels like the same amount of power. I didn't reset the clock fuse either. So my thought is that I was getting some air bleed by on the O2 sensor.
Cleaned the snot out of it inside and out. Looks pretty !
The funny thing is that when I removed the OBX header I had some blow by on the head pipes to Jpipe. Didn't think much of it.
However, the car is running even better ! low throttle cruising is much better. Feels like the same amount of power. I didn't reset the clock fuse either. So my thought is that I was getting some air bleed by on the O2 sensor.
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