sunnyp43

I took off the "3.2 CL" and "A C U R A" off of my trunk. All of the remaining glue is gone, but now it has an outline of the letters left.

Will this go away after a car wash and wax? Or will I have to do something else to it?

Thanks guys!

gnuts

iTrader: (1)

Don't be afraid to SEARCH. There's lots of Do It Yourself info on the "official 2nd generation information thread."

Try this:
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188261

Corrosion

What color is your car? Mine is Taffeta White and the outlines just evened themselves out after a couple months.

02CLNOS

you may want to wet sand it lightly and than buff it. i have the same thing and now my trunk looks like glass. mmm mmm sexy

DFoster0

what kind of sandpaper did you use

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

i would just use compounds. they are much safer that wetsanding.

DFoster0

Ive trying rubbing compound to no effect Im gonna def need to wet sand.

sunnyp43

my color is black

is it safe for wetsand bc ive never done it before and i dont want to scratch it

distortedolskool

iTrader: (1)

they make compound polishes in many different grits. also the use of a porta cable really helps. worked for me.

i suggest reading up on wet sanding if you do not have any experience. you have to be careful and will still be using compounds to remove the wet sanding scratches. i remember seeing where some idiot polished and burned the paint on his fuel door.

rp_guy

goo gone or equivalent

sunnyp43

i used goo gone to remove the remaining glue.

now there is only the outline of the letters

evan03CL

any kind of car rubbing compound should take those outlines off, worked for me

02CLNOS

I used 2000 grit.

Corrosion

Just give it time in the sun.

sunnyp43

all of the glue is gone, now its just the outline of where the letters were placed

today i got a wash and waxed it but it still remained

i plan on buffing it this weekend

will it fade in, in the sun? i didnt think about that

DFoster0

straight 2000grit or did you work your way up to a higher number, also after words did you just wax over it? thanks

Corrosion

Well that's why your original color is different than the one under the letters. A month or so of sunshine should have it lookin good.

immauser

iTrader: (1)

i have slight outlines of my letters....but it looks like its etched in there a bit? i used wax and the buffing machine..still there....its not glue marks either......is that what everyone else is having? thanks in advanced

DFoster0

im having the same problem, seems like some of my clearcoat came off with the adhesive with the lettering

immauser

iTrader: (1)

well after i took it off , its not the entire stamp of the letter that was faded or etched in..its just slight outlines of a couple letters..... and it seems like its scraped/engraved a bit on to there...not faded (atleast on mine)

badeh2

iTrader: (1)

GOO GONE FTW! After a car wash, get a very clean TERRY TOWEL that will not mess up the paint(very soft) and use some GOO GONE on the towel and start RUBBING on the leftover glue! Thats what I did and now i dont have anything on my trunk.

immauser

iTrader: (1)

i used goo gone and heat gun...worked great, but there are slight left over marks from the outline of the letters that are engraved on the back, ....... it feels rough too...so its not glue or fading.....

02CLNOS

You could just use 1000 grit and then just hit it with a buffer and then use swerl remover to get rid of the buffer marks... finaly use some detailing spray like mothers. It will look sweeeet! But you MUST use a orbital buffer after you wetsand.... doing it my hand looks like shit.

Beavisboots

Wet sanding is something I would recommend for more experienced detailer. If you never done it before I personally wouldn't recommend doing it. However if its done right it will look amazing.

A good compound is your best bet. Lighter the color the easier to cover/blend. Use a heat activated compound by machine for best results. Using a different buffer pad, machine easy with a good polish followed by a hard paste wax by hand. When applying your compounds, waxes and polishes try to keep it a minimum of 1/2 and inch away from all edges and remaining badges. This will help not tear up the pad or burn your edges. I can recommend some good stuff to use if your interested in doing it yourself. A good detail shop should be able to do it either way in less than and hour for a reasonable charge.