I took my cls to the dealer b/c the steering wheel was vibrating when i braked at high speeds.Told mi that they were warped and could not resurfis them b/c they were to worn out so i replaced them with Powerstop cross drilled rotors and replaced the brake pads . the thing is my new rotors only have 5,000 miles on them and there warped again and can't be resurfised what could be causing this to happen cheap rotors or hard brakeing......

 

WHy can't you resurface your new powerstop rotors?

 

the brake bias on most Hondas/Acuras is usually about 80/20. They have always been under-braked and rely heavily on the front rotors to stop. Your probably killing them when you are doing 90 on the hywy and hit your exit, slowing to 40. Too much heat build-up and they can't take the heat. Have you ever smelled your brakes cooking yet?

 

i hope mine dont go out again

 

Have you replaced all four rotors? If not it might just be the rear rotors, assuming you replaced the fronts.

If the rotors are slotted they can't put them on a lathe. The grooves will trap the machine bit (or whatever its called). I had a similar problem with my '01 CL-S. Stopping from high speed, especially going down a hill, and there are plenty of them in the Texas hill country where I live, will warp most rotors pretty easily. The Brembo oe replacement rotors from tirerack.com work well and haven't warped yet. They're only $50 apiece. I matched them up with Axxis Ultimate pads (their formulation is similar to that of EBC greenstuff pads) from brakewarehouse.com. So far so good. You may want to try EBC sport rotors if you feel like spending a lot more $$.

This is really a pretty easy thing to do yourself. The only things you need are a lug wrench, 10mm socket wrench a C-clamp, and preferably a hydraulic floor jack. If you ask around I'm sure someone on the site has pics too.

Theoretically slotted rotors will be better at dissipating heat than the oe rotors & should be less susceptible to warping so you encounter the same problem again. Brembo is a high quality European brand so hopefully this will work.
Here are some links you might want to check out:

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/resul...rack&x=61&y=11

http://www.brakewarehouse.com/ShowResults22pad.asp

 

Mine were turned again last week...time for aftermarket rotors (Crossdrilled and slotted) next time.

 

they can't be resurface b/c the bit might get caught in the crossdrilled holes.

 

Idon't think i have b/c i don't know how it smells.

 

Some ppl say that the x-Drilled/slotted CAN be resurfaced...and some ppl say that they CAN'T be resurfaced?????

I was planing to get aftermarket x-drilled/slotted...now...???

 

Were the lugs torqued too tight on your new rotors? That would cause them to warp.

 

i've heard from many people including mechanics that it's not possible to get xdrilled roters or slotted roters resurfaced. I dont know if they said that because they dont want to damage their machines or because they dont want to be held liable since they may not resurface the same way because of the xdrilling.

i wouldn't recommend resurfacing slotted rotor's anyways cuz when u resurface them the slots aren't as prominent anymore so they won't perform any better than standard rotor's.

 

Slotted and or crossdrilled rotors cannot be remachined on conventional brake lathes .The bits will break very easily as they get caught in the machined surfaces of the rotor .There are industrial machines that can resurface these rotors however I do ot know of any shops that have access to such machines .As neat looking as these crossdrilled slotted grooved rotors are I am not convinced that on a street car they are worth the money .I am a bigger fan of high quality rotors (non machined) .They can be resurfaced and if they are a good brand name are usually not likely to warp out .

Jens

 

Do you think i should get a new pair of powerstop rotors our should i just buy another brand of rotors.

 

Some one please......

 

You need a set of Brembos... Check link for pics. Yes those are the larger 13" with 17"SSRs (they do fit). I've had no problems since.

 

You can get relatively affordable big brake kits from AEM. Not sure if they make one for the CL-S. IMO this might be overkill but a bigger rotor would be able to absorb and dissipate more heat before warping.
AEM does make kits for the V6 Accord coupe which is similar to the CL-S.

Car & Driver tested brake upgrades on a Subie WRX a few years back. They found that a big brake Brembo equipped WRX didn't stop notably better than stock. The best results were obtained with the AEM conversion or with upgraded pads like EBC greenstuff / Axxis Ultimates. The main benefit of big brakes was improved fade resistance, not shorter stopping.

 

when i put my powerstop rotors on i did't get the axis metal pads recomended i just put on oem pads.
And would an AEM big brake kit for a V6 accord coupe fit on a CLs 2001.

 

Sorry it wasn't AEM it was StopTech brakes. Here's the link:
http://caranddriver.com/article.asp?...&page_number=2

"Our objective here was primarily to test brake fade, not stopping distances. Assuming a brake system is properly balanced, strong enough to lock a wheel, and not yet hot enough to fade, the stopping distance is largely a function of tire traction, not brakes. Think of it this way: All brake systems, stock and aftermarket, are able to activate the ABS, so how could a stronger brake shorten a stop? Eric Dahl, a brake engineer from Brembo, put it this way: "Don't expect the brake kits to stop you sooner, but expect the 20th lap to feel like the first."
Even though Dahl cautions not to expect better braking distances, we found that all the aftermarket systems and the Hawk brake pads outperformed the stock brakes in nearly every test. The brake kits seemed so well-tuned to the stock braking systems that they felt factory-installed. All stopped within a few feet of the stock system in the 40-to-0-mph test. In addition, all but the Prodrive kit used components that were lighter than the stock units. Here's a rundown of each kit, starting with a test of the stock brakes, with and without the Hawk pads, and then with the kits, in alphabetical order.

The table of brake data that was in the 10/99 issue of C&D magazine isn't on the web site but as I recall a stock Subie w/Hawk brake pads stopped from 90 to 0 in 314 feet

Stock Subie w/Hawk pads:
90 to 0 mph: 314 feet
70 to 0 mph: 178 feet

Subie equipped /wBrembo f50
70 to 0 was 185 feet (close to stock worse than stock w/Hawk pads)
Subie equipped w/Brembo Lotus
70mph to 0 was "another 15 feet" = 200 feet [worse than a stock WRX]

Stoptech was shortest:
90mph to 0: 297 feet
70 mph to 0: 187 feet

 

Cross Drilled is good for track but not street. They are suseptable to fractures. Street rotors are heat cycled more and if you look closely, fractures between the holes develope. High end rotors that are "Cross Drilled" are actually cast that way to avoid the fracture problems.

If you want some bullet proof rotors, go with a good slotted rotor and have them Cryogenically treated. Cryogenic rotors are tough enough to endure service on Taxi's and Police vehicles. Something about the Cryogenic process aligns the molecules and makes them much tougher to warp.

Check out this site that describes the process and results:
Cryogenic

Has anyone on A-CL had any experience with Cryogenics?

 

My wilwood rotors are cross-drilled/slotted, Cad plated, & cryogenically treated. Haven't had any problems with them and they feel great.

 

The problem with the CL brakes is that the car is too heavy for the size brakes Acura put on the car. The answer is bigger brakes. Brembos are the best imho, many high end manufactures feel the same way if you look at what cars come equipped with them from the factory. They will give you consistent braking from high speeds all day. If you just drive on the street they may be overkill, but will last a long time. I did the same thing originally and bought crossed drilled rotors of the same size as stock and warped them in a short period of time (waste of money).

 

Here's the link....

http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/tel1sps/l...Wheels&.view=t

 

have you heard of anyone converting the rear brakes to a brembo kit as well with calipers?

 

I believe the SEMA CL a few years back had a full brake kit custom made by Brembo.

 

slyraskal,

u could swap the rear with brembo kit, but i don't konw if only would want to spend that much money. front does 80% and rear does 20% of breaking.

 

yea they are pricey, i'm just wondering if it's possible to put the front kit in the rear to have a 4 wheel brembo kit, if i had the money i may be crazy enough to do it

anyone else crazy enough to do a 4 wheel brembo upgrade?

 

Too much F&F. Don't forget good pads.

 

Jens, what do you recommend for CLSs? OEM? thanks.

 

You can't slap on a front kit on the rear...you have to get a front brembo and rear brembo set. If your front and rear brakes are the same size and excert the same force...you have the potential that your rear wheels will lock up before your front wheels, and you will lose control.

 

understandable, but since brembo doesn't produce a rear big brake kit, what would someone do to acheive that upgrade if they wanted to?

 

try a different brand...or get alot of interest so a company will make a rear kit. IF not try to see if a different kit with a smaller rotor size will fit the rear.