Saving an 03 CL-S 6Spd
#81
#82
Racer
Thread Starter
You brought up in the video how you got to experience the car getting better each time you finished a phase. Obviously the subframe was dire and that must have been one of those night and day feelings but how bad was the rest of the suspension parts your replaced? I’m guessing since your car has fairly low miles you wanted to just freshen the whole thing all at once?
#84
Quarantuning
iTrader: (4)
I see that you've done the front rear subframe, but did you look at the radius rod bushings in the front support area? Also known as the strut rod bushings. They do so much work and really control how the car feels under load.
When I took mine out they were mushroomed out of shape and hard and brittle. A new set of urethane bushings made the biggest difference in wheel hop reduction during launch, gear shifts and overall getting the power down. More so than all the mounts and bushings I did elsewhere. If you didn't replace those I strongly suggest you and anyone else reading this to do so.
When I took mine out they were mushroomed out of shape and hard and brittle. A new set of urethane bushings made the biggest difference in wheel hop reduction during launch, gear shifts and overall getting the power down. More so than all the mounts and bushings I did elsewhere. If you didn't replace those I strongly suggest you and anyone else reading this to do so.
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Grassyfields (08-30-2020)
#85
#86
Burning Brakes
I see that you've done the front rear subframe, but did you look at the radius rod bushings in the front support area? Also known as the strut rod bushings. They do so much work and really control how the car feels under load.
When I took mine out they were mushroomed out of shape and hard and brittle. A new set of urethane bushings made the biggest difference in wheel hop reduction during launch, gear shifts and overall getting the power down. More so than all the mounts and bushings I did elsewhere. If you didn't replace those I strongly suggest you and anyone else reading this to do so.
When I took mine out they were mushroomed out of shape and hard and brittle. A new set of urethane bushings made the biggest difference in wheel hop reduction during launch, gear shifts and overall getting the power down. More so than all the mounts and bushings I did elsewhere. If you didn't replace those I strongly suggest you and anyone else reading this to do so.
also the place where caster is adjusted. ;-)
#87
Racer
Thread Starter
I see that you've done the front rear subframe, but did you look at the radius rod bushings in the front support area? Also known as the strut rod bushings. They do so much work and really control how the car feels under load.
When I took mine out they were mushroomed out of shape and hard and brittle. A new set of urethane bushings made the biggest difference in wheel hop reduction during launch, gear shifts and overall getting the power down. More so than all the mounts and bushings I did elsewhere. If you didn't replace those I strongly suggest you and anyone else reading this to do so.
When I took mine out they were mushroomed out of shape and hard and brittle. A new set of urethane bushings made the biggest difference in wheel hop reduction during launch, gear shifts and overall getting the power down. More so than all the mounts and bushings I did elsewhere. If you didn't replace those I strongly suggest you and anyone else reading this to do so.
#88
Racer
Thread Starter
Today I replaced the gas cap gasket and let me say that I believe this was the most likely culprit for the light. The new gasket was thicker and more pliable vs the old gasket. As you can see in the photo attached the old gasket had a number of missing chunks.
Then I moved on to the vent valve and what a PITA! those little f'n screws are. Unreal! I ended up having to drill them out and knock them loose with a hammer. I tried penetrating oil and my impact screw driver to get them out and they wouldn't budge. When I did get the old valve off I tested it and it functioned.
Then I moved on to the vent valve and what a PITA! those little f'n screws are. Unreal! I ended up having to drill them out and knock them loose with a hammer. I tried penetrating oil and my impact screw driver to get them out and they wouldn't budge. When I did get the old valve off I tested it and it functioned.
#89
EVAP leaks are such a pain! I totally get why so many people just say F it and replace everything at once and call it a day. The dreaded northeast rust on all the little nuts and bolts... I felt your pain as I’m looking at the pics lol. My exhaust is going to have to come apart at the J pipe soon and I’m completely dreading it
#90
Racer
Thread Starter
EVAP leaks are such a pain! I totally get why so many people just say F it and replace everything at once and call it a day. The dreaded northeast rust on all the little nuts and bolts... I felt your pain as I’m looking at the pics lol. My exhaust is going to have to come apart at the J pipe soon and I’m completely dreading it
#92
Oh those pics of the EVAP cannister bring back memories...more like nightmares! It took an afternoon of PB blasting and prying things apart...had to MacGyver it back together after replacing the valve(s?). I forget if it was one or two valves.
#94
Thanks for the comments on this project.
Did a video update for May 2020 mapping out what's next
https://youtu.be/grJsH8EHICc
Did a video update for May 2020 mapping out what's next
https://youtu.be/grJsH8EHICc
#95
Racer
Thread Starter
Love the video. Keep em coming! I have the same hangup with body panels not being the originals with vin stickers. Its one of the first things I check on a car im buying. I think in your case it should be ok considering you can prove the hood wasn't replaced due to a wreck and you plan on using an OEM hood.
Right now I have the quote for the body work and replacement hood and it comes to 2,600$. I need to get two stickers for under the hood (I'm not looking at it but I believe one is the EVAP and the other is the SRS, don't quote me) and then a reproduction vin sticker. Stay tuned!
#96
Racer
Thread Starter
Small update on tires for the car. I know Michelin tires were OEM but I felt with the suspension changes and the fact that the OEM tires are old technology, this was a better fit.
Some new Hankook Ventus V12s were in order to improve the road noise and driveability.
Found a factory fresh brochure for cars and coffee meets
Some new Hankook Ventus V12s were in order to improve the road noise and driveability.
Found a factory fresh brochure for cars and coffee meets
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#98
Racer
Thread Starter
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#100
Great choice on the Hankooks. The Michelin’s are nice when they are new but after a few miles they get noisy and just generally don’t perform that well. I had a similar Hankook on my Accord V6 and liked them a lot. I like to try different tires and just took a chance on Sumitomo HTRs because I wanted to keep that cost down and got a great deal and for the price I’m super impressed with them.
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#102
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
HTR's are the shit...I had some 3's and now 5's on my S2000 and I love them.
Best tire I've ever had period hands down have been Michelin PSS though.
The V12 are a great tire...although the one time I had them before they ended
up cupping. Then again, right now I'm running some Achilles sports I bought for
$240 new from Amazon on my TL-S and they are actually impressive too.
Best tire I've ever had period hands down have been Michelin PSS though.
The V12 are a great tire...although the one time I had them before they ended
up cupping. Then again, right now I'm running some Achilles sports I bought for
$240 new from Amazon on my TL-S and they are actually impressive too.
#103
Racer
Thread Starter
I'm currently running what the previous owner put on. Kelly A/S tires which i find to be complete garbage. They are also going on 6 years old and have some pretty bad cracking so that may be why
#104
Changing from the oem tires to the michelin pilot sports a/s was a big improvement when I made the change. I would hydroplane on the oem michelins, but the pilot sports a/s had me looking for puddles to run through! The oem tires limited the handling of the car quite a bit if I remember correctly (but that was a long, long time ago!).
#105
Racer
Thread Starter
Got one part of the restoration checked off today. Big thanks to Nick, Tyson and Jason for the help on the window sticker. It came out amazing! There will be a video showcasing the build and vintage elements pulled together to make this car an original rare automobile. Took care of my Ridgeline too.
#106
CLS 6MT Navi
Congrats on your great CLS! I've had two 2003 CLS 6MTs. First was a certified white/tan no Navi in 2004. I loved the car so much I sold it in 2005 and replaced it with an Anthracite Navi with 7500mi. At 160k mi today it's my daily driver. Still fun to drive.
I love to see people saving these. I sometimes get notes left on my car to buy it. I had 2 Legend Coupes before this.
Acura/Honda's 6cyl/6MT coupe days are long gone. So glad I could drive them all. Good luck on your hard work!
I love to see people saving these. I sometimes get notes left on my car to buy it. I had 2 Legend Coupes before this.
Acura/Honda's 6cyl/6MT coupe days are long gone. So glad I could drive them all. Good luck on your hard work!
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Acura2g558 (05-24-2020)
#107
Got one part of the restoration checked off today. Big thanks to Nick, Tyson and Jason for the help on the window sticker. It came out amazing! There will be a video showcasing the build and vintage elements pulled together to make this car an original rare automobile. Took care of my Ridgeline too.
#108
Racer
Thread Starter
Perhaps it's easier to show the original one that was used as the template.
The example was a NHB with ebony interior, but all of the specs lined up so it was a matter of matching the dealership info and car info. There is an easter egg in it too which ties back to the original service records. You'll notice that the "HN" code is not an "AL" number but instead a "D" number. This is the stock number the dealership used to identify the car and knew it was part of their life time oil change program
The example was a NHB with ebony interior, but all of the specs lined up so it was a matter of matching the dealership info and car info. There is an easter egg in it too which ties back to the original service records. You'll notice that the "HN" code is not an "AL" number but instead a "D" number. This is the stock number the dealership used to identify the car and knew it was part of their life time oil change program
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Acura2g558 (05-24-2020)
#110
Racer
Thread Starter
Today it was a restoration of the tools. According to the service records the original owner blew a tire on average every 2 years with two occurrence with one month. Needless to say, these tools got some use and because of that they were rusted and bashed. I sanded them down and sprayed enamel paint with clear coat they are factory fresh now.
#111
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I wish I had the original window sticker to my Honda Frame that thing!
Nice work on the tools
Nice work on the tools
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#113
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Love it
#115
Racer
Thread Starter
Well.... Got potentially my first problem with the car (outside the EVAP code and restoration). This morning, I decided to take the car to work and immediately I could tell something was off with the driveline.@ 50-60 mph there is a humming noise occurring and a slight vibration... very slight, but noticeable.
It feels to me like axles or potentially intermediate shaft. I did notice that the axles are all original and the rubber (bushing?) on the driverside was ripped the last time I looked at it. Both axles have considerable corrosion on them, but decided to not replace them since they were fine. The car seems 'fine' at speeds above 60 mph. I'm not thinking tires since they are new to the car and felt fine on a couple of drives so far, but suppose I couldn't rule that out either. Additionally, the car has been a little jerky in 2nd gear below 2,500 RPM.
You guys know the drive-ability better than I do so I'm curious on your thoughts.
It feels to me like axles or potentially intermediate shaft. I did notice that the axles are all original and the rubber (bushing?) on the driverside was ripped the last time I looked at it. Both axles have considerable corrosion on them, but decided to not replace them since they were fine. The car seems 'fine' at speeds above 60 mph. I'm not thinking tires since they are new to the car and felt fine on a couple of drives so far, but suppose I couldn't rule that out either. Additionally, the car has been a little jerky in 2nd gear below 2,500 RPM.
You guys know the drive-ability better than I do so I'm curious on your thoughts.
#117
Suzuka Master
iTrader: (1)
^
It could be something to do with the inner / outer CV joints. Sounds like you gave it a good 'once over'; however, it might be necessary to recap because you sure would not want what you see below to happen and leave you stranded. It's been know to happen with these 'road salt' exposed axles. The original OEM axles on my project CL-S look just like what you see on either side of the rubber 'damper'. No paint and nothing but shaft rust. Heaven knows what it looks like under the damper.
I believe the half shaft assembly has been discontinued, though the bearing and seal are available. If it came to having to replace the whole assembly, you might be able to cross reference to a + or - year specific Accord for a replacement.
It could be something to do with the inner / outer CV joints. Sounds like you gave it a good 'once over'; however, it might be necessary to recap because you sure would not want what you see below to happen and leave you stranded. It's been know to happen with these 'road salt' exposed axles. The original OEM axles on my project CL-S look just like what you see on either side of the rubber 'damper'. No paint and nothing but shaft rust. Heaven knows what it looks like under the damper.
I believe the half shaft assembly has been discontinued, though the bearing and seal are available. If it came to having to replace the whole assembly, you might be able to cross reference to a + or - year specific Accord for a replacement.
#118
Racer
Thread Starter
Wow. Okay, I'm definitely going to re-examine the driveshafts now. That's crazy! I would say the d/s shaft looks more corroded than the one pictured too. However, that one seems to taper a bit where it weakened. I think I would have recalled something like that if I saw it. Nevertheless, that looks awful.
#119
Well.... Got potentially my first problem with the car (outside the EVAP code and restoration). This morning, I decided to take the car to work and immediately I could tell something was off with the driveline.@ 50-60 mph there is a humming noise occurring and a slight vibration... very slight, but noticeable.
It feels to me like axles or potentially intermediate shaft. I did notice that the axles are all original and the rubber (bushing?) on the driverside was ripped the last time I looked at it. Both axles have considerable corrosion on them, but decided to not replace them since they were fine. The car seems 'fine' at speeds above 60 mph. I'm not thinking tires since they are new to the car and felt fine on a couple of drives so far, but suppose I couldn't rule that out either. Additionally, the car has been a little jerky in 2nd gear below 2,500 RPM.
You guys know the drive-ability better than I do so I'm curious on your thoughts.
It feels to me like axles or potentially intermediate shaft. I did notice that the axles are all original and the rubber (bushing?) on the driverside was ripped the last time I looked at it. Both axles have considerable corrosion on them, but decided to not replace them since they were fine. The car seems 'fine' at speeds above 60 mph. I'm not thinking tires since they are new to the car and felt fine on a couple of drives so far, but suppose I couldn't rule that out either. Additionally, the car has been a little jerky in 2nd gear below 2,500 RPM.
You guys know the drive-ability better than I do so I'm curious on your thoughts.
I had an axle snap on an 03 Accord in the exact same spot as the picture noted above due to corrosion but it made no noises and gave no warning at all prior to snapping
#120
Racer
Thread Starter