I had posted previously about a vibration on my 6-Speed running the HBP. The vibration started around 4500 RPMs and built until about 5500 RPMs. Comptech sent a new blower assembly and Tischer Acura installed it today. The vibration now appears to be gone. Thanks Comptech! Thanks Tischer!

Now for the questions:

I am hearing some detonation in 3rd gear at around 5500 - 6000 RPMs under WOT. I am running 93 octane. It has been in the 70s and 80s recently with normal east coast humidity for this time of year. Does this sound similar to the detonation problems others have experienced? I know some of you have discussed disconnecting the IMRC. Does this adequately solve the problem? Are there other approaches to solving the problem I should consider?

According to my service advisor, Comptech mentioned that a tweak to the FPR might help the problem. Has anyone tried this? Should I try this?

What about a chip? Is it worth the expense to install a chip and get it tuned, or is it overkill for this problem?

Finally, my service advisor recommended that I get an EGT gauge instead of the Fuel Pressure gauge. He thinks the Fuel Pressure gauge is too invasive and that the Exhaust Gas Temperature is just as good if not a better indication of what is going on. Any thoughts on this?

Thoughts on any of these questions would be appreciated!

 

As explained to me by Scalbert, adjusting the FPR will not solve your problem. I have tried disconnecting the IMRC and that seemed to help. My dyno showed a loss of 10lb/tq though and that is unacceptable to me. So, my solution was to add 2-3 gallons of 101 octane racing fuel to the 92 octane they sell here in Washington. No more detonation noticed so far.

My S/C vibrates exactly like yours did. Did you call Comptech or did you have the dealer do it?

 

I did speak with Comptech, but Tischer Acura did most of the interfacing with Comptech.

BTW, how convenient or inconvenient do you find it mixing the gas? Although I'd hate to give up power, I think it would be too much of a hassle trying to buy, store and mix fuel.

 

It takes two seconds to unplug the IMRC,..just try it!

Since the entire engine management system on this kit is the rising rate fuel pressure regulator, you had better keep an eye on it! Keep the FP gauge for now!

The "chip will do you no good,...get the e-man, lower the FP, add the IC, up the boost, then get an EGT gauge if you want to. Get Scalbert's setup while you can, and really enjoy the ride!

 

[QUOTE=Seattle Cl-S]My dyno showed a loss of 10lb/tq though and that is unacceptable to me. QUOTE]

where in the curve was the loss?

 

Where on the curve did you loose? I actually showed bigger gains than losses.

 

Get the E-manage... detonation on a long-term basis (or severe detonation on a short-term basis) is destructive!!! If you experience detonation with just you in the car... with the stock pulley, something is wrong especially with 93-octane!! Bump up fuel pressure to 44psi (w/ vacuum connected) and see how it runs.

 

That's great to hear about the vibration Brian! I have no pinging/detonation on 93 octane here in MD w/o the HBP... so I would also definitely recommend disconnecting the IMRC and seeing what happens. Hopefully that will take care of it, because I agree - mixing fuel seems like a pain in the neck.

Let us know the outcome!

 

It is actually with the HBP, not the stock pulley. It does happen with just me in the car, but it seems to vary (as expected) with temperature and accessory load.

 

Brian,

Brandon is big on EGT gauges, the problem is where do you install the pyrometer? Scalbert and I had a discussion about it a few weeks ago. Also, what should the ideal temps be? And then another issue is, ambient temperatures will affect the EGT value as well. Lots of variables with the pyrometer gauge.

The general coconscious here is a fuel pressure gauge and/or going with a wideband O2 w/ an A/F gauge... that gets pricey though.

Its great to hear everything is worked out. I'm sure Brandon is happy too. I should be in for my install at the end of the month I'm also going with the HBP.

 

Nice man, glad to hear they corrected that problem.

 

Good move on the octane boost That should help with the power also.

 

If you were to call comptech, they will tell you to up the fuel pressure to no greater than 42psi at idle, i believe my initial conversation with them on this problem you are experiencing was that the FPR comes set at around 37psi. I bumped mine up and it cured the problem.

It's a little work, but put a gauge on the riser and see what the fp is and bump it up a pound or two till the detonation stops.

regardless of varying opinions, it works and does not hurt the engine, sure some performance is lost due to a richer mixture, but who wants to seek out higher octane everytime you filll it up and the performance lost is not noticable.


good luck

 

We've been down this road nearly well over a year ago. Bumping the fuel pressure will have little long term effect. Once it gets cold out you will once again experience some knock.

Unplugging the IMRC did work fine. Both Brad and myself had little changes in power, just shifted in various parts of the curve. My torque did drop some but also gained in other spots. Overall the total power (area under...) was about the same.

 

About the gauge, an EGT gauge would be great. But you should also know the fuel pressure as it is critical to this implementation.

 

I unplugged the IMRC before leaving the house today. On the way to work I was able to get into it a couple of times and did not notice any detonation. I'll test it for a while this way before I commit to more drastic steps.

BTW scalbert, do you still have the IMRC disconnected while running the IC?

 

There is no provisions for the IMRC with the IC. Remember, it replaces the whole upper intake manifold.

 

Ah yes! Thanks!

 

I got lucky and found a 76 station about 1/2 mile from work that sells 101 octane racing fuel. I put in 3 gallons of 101 and then finish it off with 92. Costs me about $9 extra per tank so I don't really know how much longer I'll do this. I'll probably just end up unpluggin the IMRC. I can live w/ a little mid-rpm torque loss, especially if other guys are just getting a shift of torque to other rpm ranges. My dyno plots sucked and the dyno computer kept throwing away my A/F data for some reason. I basically spent 2 1/2 hours at the shop and got 2 power pulls out of it. Really pissed me off.

 

you really make me want to spend money everytime you throw that picture up.

so is mine ready yet?... can I have after Christmas?

 

While your at it lets throw up the numbers for the Fuel pressure.
NO ACCESSORIES RUNNING...i.e A/C, radio... any crap.

Stock: 30 lbs
vacuum pulled 60 psi

Higher Boost Pulley:
35 psi
vacuum pulled 65 psi

If you crank your FUEL pressure up too much... means you run RICHER = LOSS OF POWER.


I HIGHLY RECOMMEND TO ALL S/C GUYS THAT YOUR ESM IS SOLDERED NOT TAPPED IN WITH THOSE POOP CONNECTORS... 3-4 OF US HAD TROUBLE WITH HICK-UPS WHEN THE WEATHER COOLED DOWN.

and yes my IRMC is disconnected and it fixed my detonation.

 

To elaborate on what Smitty said:

You can only crank it up to a point to where the pump just can't do anymore regardless of what the FPR is demanding. And, as mentioned but expanded upon, the bottom end just richens up and the top end stays the same if not going leaner.

Yes, I said leaner with higher base fuel pressures. Why, because the fuel trim goes more negative from where it was which will decrease the WOT pulse width. .

BTW, my fuel pressure is about 25 w/ 20 inHg and 55 w/o vacuum. While only getting up to about 90 PSI max at WOT.

 

You may have just missed the clearance sale.

 

May have<--- is the key words there.....

I have to be honest and tell you the only thing that has kept me from jumping all over the IC is that seasonal changes up here... I see snow and below zero temps... so I am my car will not hit standard operating temps = bad news.

Tell me I should not be worried and might send you some cash after the holidays.

 

the moderator thinks MrSteve should shut his piehole for awhile.

 

:smitty:

 

The car will heat up just fine, not unlike when the blower was not on there. You would just need to run a higher concentration level of anti-freeze in the IC coolant system.

 

You should not be worried,.....yes you see snow and below zero temps,..... but you don't even drive your car in the winter!

Get off the fence and get er done!

 

LOL.. Brad..

I would send the money but I do not think it will be accepted on my terms.... the customer is always right ya know..

if one is built and ready to ship, I will send US Postal money order...

I just can not wait like I did with the Supercharger..

 

IMO the terms are reasonable in this situation,... and some things are worth waiting for. I don't think you really want it bad enough, which is OK too. Your car is a beast just the way it is.

 

Oh I understand the $$ needs to be paid up front for the parts to get ordered... I am willing to throw half down now and half down when the IC is ready, but I never heard back from Steve, so I just figured that was not good enough.

 

Wow, keeping the man down. I miss seeing what the know it all's have to say.

 

The know it all? It was a joke, I know Carl and speak with him outside of A-CL regularly.

Maybe you should think about what you say before you open your mouth... know it all.

 

hehe, hook line and sinker

 

Congrats!

 

Actually, what I have been doing is accepting $1500 initially and the remainder, $1055 + Shipping, when it is ready to go.

 

No excuses now smitty!

 

Oh just do it already, you'll be pissed when Steve stops making them and you can no longer buy it. Remember how I snoozed on the RonJon deal? You'll feel the same way about the IC once you see the post that the IC is no longer available.

 

I'll just say that parts are cut for two more but not assembled. After that, we'll have to see what the demand is which isn't that big.

 

Are they spoken for?