I wanted to ask ppl's opinions on a purchase and what would be needed to run it on my cls6. i found a person selling a comptech supercharger for the accord that can also fit our car. He wants $1200 for the supercharger. It looks like I would need to get the elbow, upper radiator hose, battery tray, fuel pump, belts, and nuts and bolts. Also it is made for the accord esm so i assume i would need to tune it on emanage blue to run it? He is about 5 hours from me so i was considering driving there to get it. Just still need to think it over.

 

get chiefys turbo kit. From what I remember its a complete kit

 

I was leaning more towards a s/c because I am looking more instant torque than high hp. 1200 is tempting but I am wondering with the needed accesories what it would really add up to and then you never know if it will need a rebuild or not. I know i will never put down 4 grand for a new one tho.

 

Get your home work done,get your money right,and jump in with both feet.

Have you seen anything he has ? pics or in person.
I too would never dump 4 grand for new.

 

$1200 is not bad at all if everything was together but laying down $1200 on hopefully piecing things together to me is not worth it

 

yea i wish 1200 included everything needed but i doubt that will ever happen. Looks like I would need new belts, elbow, fuel pump and engine management either ct esm or emanage. Tempting but I dunno if its worth the hassle and risk.

I assume my option underdrive pulley wouldnt work with blower right?

 

yes I have seen pics and if i bought it i would pick up in person.

 

Option pulley will not work. Need stock diameter pulley (UR)

 

+1

 

You'll also need a 51R battery. $1200 isn't a bad price if the kit is in good shape. If you're just planning on running the standard boost pully, you can get away with tuning the ESM to the corrrect clamp voltage. With the HBP, it's dependent on what octane you have available if you need a tune or not. You may be able to get away without tuning with an E-Manage.

If you do decide to go with this deal, here are links to the SC Installation manual and a copy of the SC kit list of parts so you can determine what you're missing:

http://photos.imageevent.com/allout/...stallation.pdf

http://photos.imageevent.com/allout/..._Checklist.pdf

 

good info there thnx

 

Definitely not a bad price

 

u can always swap the mp90 (or was it the 92?)

 

^mp90.

 

its actually M90 guys

dont waste your time or money on comptech brian, go with this

http://v6(delete this)performance.net/forums/showthread.php?t=179175

 

I tried reading thru nva-av6's posts but the thread is long.
The build looks nice and all I just dunno about it. First will it even be made for the cl, and anytime soon. Is it worth going to this blower without internal engine work done. I dont want to spend the money for 3.5-6 swap plus this cause that is about what my car is worth. Will it even clear stock hood. I would also assume to make that blower usefull I would need to buy beefed up axles etc. Then what about our ecu and management.

It just seems like for me it would be better to buy a bolt on comptech blower and just slap it on with no worries. I would just run at stock 3 psi to start then maybe bump it up to 6 psi. I'm not really trying to compete with highest hp cars just wanted a bit more pickup. Also I have a gutted trunk and back seat so I would prefer not to add more weight to the front. I bet my car is well over 70% of the weight in front cant be good for handling.

 

on a side note funny it seems all the ppl who have turbos or superchargers for sale on this or other sites for cl/accord have showed interest in this build.

 

im pretty sure he would custom tailor the kit for you. doesnt look like he will be mass producing these. i would shoot him a pm and see what he can do for you

 

or you can PM me where i can buy it for 1200

 

Its not difficult to graft the M90(not the MP90, that has an internal wastegate/bov) onto the CL.

And I rode in that Accord. Its fucking nuts. And thats on a junkyard J30.

The J wants to breath, and the M62 doesnt fit the bill. Nor is it set to the optimal rev range as it has a tendency to overheat. The M90 flows more air and at a lower RPM so that air stays cool(er).

 

I dont have it easy like you, i cant just drive to Paul's shop and there isnt anyone around me i really wanna trust with anything more than bolt on honestly. The few good tuning shops i have heard of around me charge alot also.

Just seems like a huge leap in price and work/headaches to go from ct m62 as a bolt on to the 90 blower with all the added work and tuning needed. Basically i dont think I have the funds for this now and was looking for deals and thinking of selling stuff i have sitting around like 09 tl IM etc.

Maybe i would be better holding off and seeing what is made for all the J swapped cars, if anything ever is since they prob dont have room in engine bay.

 

Ull have room under the hood for the m90. Jproly has it

 

i was referring to cars with j-swaps not having room for a turbo or s/c so companies might not make a new kit in the future for the j, since the j swaps is the only reason for companies to make parts for our cars anymore.

 

lol i drove from florida to va for him to work on my car 2 weeks ago.

 

hmm nice ill have to look at ur thread and see if I missed anything.

 

why is it that the S/C kit is remotely mounted on the cl/tl? shouldve been developed in a way that it replaces the intake manifold completely. Im not a big fan of non-intercooled forced induction either ESP on higher compression engines. This is strictly an opinion. Someone should mount an M90 or M112 onto the J32 in that configuration. I used to own a 94 ford thunderbird supercoupe which had an M90. there were people that adapted the M112 from the 03/04 cobra onto the 3.8 V6 which is what the supercoupe had. I think it would be an interesting route though if someone did put an M112 onto a CL in this way.

 

someone has the m90 from the thunderbird on the cl, it was linked in the thread above for the 7th gen accord.

 

its still remote mounted though. and that was the early style blower which was unbelievably inefficient; the better model was from the 94/95 supercoupe (rectangular opening and teflon coated rotors). the way im saying to mount it is to mount it in a way that it replaces the intake manifold; so it forces the air straight down into the lower intake. think 03/04 cobra or 99-04 lightning. they used water to air intercoolers underneath the blowers themselves with the coolant lines running to a heat exchanger mounted under the radiator. I just never saw why nobody developed an intercooled kit. I would understand if they used a twin screw or centrifugal, but a roots? i dont know how they get away with it on these high compression cars w/o detonation. the boost may be low, but i never got a warm and fuzzy from non intercooled roots blowers.

 

If you replace the intake manifold with the blower, you lose the opportunity to run an inter/aftercooler. The CL engine bay doesnt have alot of space, so it will be hitting the hood before you even have a chance to latch it. Even on the 7th gen Accord, which has more hood clearance then us, he is running spacers so the aftercooler doesn't hit. Hes planning a redesign however. Also, if you mount the blower in the conventional manner (in the valley of the two banks) you have to relocate the power steering pump.

Keep in mind this is the prototype.


Running a water-air aftercooler dropped temps about 60*. And the boost is low on the CT kit. Pauls kit is currently running 9psi and he has plans to turn up the boost (currently the FIC is controlling boost pressure).

 

Understandable. This would be a one off thing no doubt about it, but custom making a lower intake manifold to some kind of water/air intercooler would be possible I would think. There are solutions ESP if you're putting that amount of time and effort into a kit design like what I'm suggesting. Even if you weren't running an intercooled s/c, at the very least I would think a twin screw would be the better non intercooled alternative. They don't heat soak nearly as bad as the roots blowers do because of how efficiently they run. More efficiency, lower intake temps = more power with less boost and better reliability. I'm sure there would be some kind of way to adapt S2k or the newer civic electric power steering to the mix. This heavy a car probably wouldn't be too comfortable w/o power steering aroud town. This is only if someone was willing to put that kind of money into their CL. I wish CT made their S/C kit with a twin screw. I only say all this because of the two times I blew my head gaskets on my supercoupe which had the M90......

 

It would be a cool setup, but installing an aftercooler under the blower in the valley would take alot of engineering work. The biggest concern would be the injectors and fuel rails. You cant just toss them anywhere because that would effect fuel atomization.

Certainly an interesting idea, but I have faith that Pauls setup is just as reliable for less money.

 

i dont doubt that it isnt going to be reliable. anytime you bring inlet air temps down on a forced induction car, esp ones with high compression, you increase power and logevity. i know you know that already though. he's probably been there before but if not ask him if he's gone to the magnumpowers website. they're big with the lightning and supercoupes. they have different case options that flow a lot better than that early style M90. he could upgrade to a rotor pack from the grand prix GTP's as well. they had the teflon coated rotors like the 94/95 supercoupes did but the GTP's are easier to come by.

sorry for getting off topic here....

 

Hate being indecisive about whether to stay N/A or not. I am thinking I will do 1 of 2 options. Wait till next spring/summer and drive to Pauls shop to have him do the 3.6l build and maybe the m90 next summer after that. Other option will be to install my 09 tl im, get my tb and lower runners ported/polished. Will this show worthwhile benefits without porting the head or is head work only really needed on FI applications? Then I could add the ct s/c or another option if anything bolt on comes out. Also is it a waste to get even the ct s/c without head work? This might be a stupid question but do you have to pull the engine to remove the lower runners, i assume you need to for the heads but maybe you dont for either?

Tough choices. Ideal setup would be to go to Paul for 3.6l and m90 later on, but I dont have unlimited cash.

Noone near me I would really trust with the 3.6 build that I know.

 

I ported all my stuff and it definitly added power.
I would make the next move to more displacement for sure.
You might as well do the lower end.

Since I have almost all the power adding bolt on's I'm thinking of stroking something.

I would definitly do some rebuilding before charging.
How many miles are on your motor now ?

 

just throw the charger on there and enjoy the car. then build it next year

 

I will break 100k in the next month. Still need to do timing belt and valve adjustment at some point also.

I might just do the ported tb, runners and 09 tl im for now and hold off on other stuff till next year and do some internal work and get valves adjusted.

For the price of the 09 tl im and other goodies plus port and polishing, maybe i should just sell the tl IM and buy a used ct blower for around 2k. Can always build the motor later. I am so indecisive damnit.

 

x2

 

thats my plan.

 

Charging then building is kinda backwards since I assume you will be on it every chance you could,like me. A rebuilt motor will last you longer.
thoughts of rebuilding after charging could end up rebuilding sooner than than you think.
You might as well rebuild first.
Their's another 100k.

 

with the proper tune and low boost, its all about maintenance.