m733l

iTrader: (1)

just got my kit from excelerate yesturday. the spacers did not come with them but i couldn't wait and went ahead and intalled them. changed the lines, rotors(slotted and drilled), pads, and sprayed the caliper red in the rear. put the rotoras bbk in the front and slapped on some old 18's i had to clear the caliper. looks silly with 18's and stock height, but the spacers are on the way and as soon as they come i'm going back to stock tires.

breaking them in for now and so far i i'm very happy with these. can't believe i waited this long to upgrade. this should be the first mod for everyone imo. means nothing to have a fast car and not being able to stop. just wanted to give an update. next stop is ct ice box. thanks for the kit excelerate

Bobbydoedoe

I concur, the rotora bbk is the best mod. 4piston for the bbk vs 1piston stock. Acura has balls to put such weak brakes on a 3500lb car

Allout

Congrats

BBK definitely give the car more confidence.

6peedSleepR

I love my bbK

implicit

What was the total cost?

And congrats on the upgrade

pits200

Its about 1400 for everything, once you get the spacers and rotors and calipers...

m733l

iTrader: (1)

my setup came out to just over 1600. i got front bbk and in the rear i got matching lines, pads, and rotors. i am seriously considering the bbk for the rear because it looks ridiculous with the rotoras in the front and a weak @ss stock rotor in the back.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see you're happy. The spacers should be there today.

Implicit, the front BBK, at least the 1 piece 13" rotor w/ 4-piston caliper, costs $1250 shipped to the continental US

JBlueCLS6

iTrader: (2)

I might have to make another purchase from you Excelerate. My stock rotors are warped like crazy. Anytime I press on the brakes my steering wheel shakes like mad. Thats a symptom of warped rotors right?

evilstorm

Yes, i will be changing mine soon as well..

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is a sign of warped rotors. When you are ready just PM me with your year and model and what you want and we can talk prices.

And I have to do it:

MSW 6SP

oh man i bought new rotors last september when i bought my car and now i notice at high speeds it shakes a bit too when i brake. i wasnt thinking it was warped rotors already but im fairly new to this car. i never slam hard on my brakes but we all know how our acura brakes systems blow.....you'll be hearing from me late this summer Excelerate for bbk front and back

g1underground

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely the best mod IMO. You really notice a difference in the braking of the car, just feels so much stronger.

Oh, my the way- Thanks " Allout " again for your advice

Allout

^^^ Glad I could help.

Not in all cases.

I read somewhere that it's possible for performance brakes to un-bed themselves if not driven aggressively enough. The brakes on our TL seemed like they were warping with the pulsing of the brake pedal. I went out and did a mini bedding process and the brakes smoothed out once again. It can be because of an inconsistent layer of brake material on the face of the rotor. On the TL we're running Rotora Combo drilled and slotted rotors and Axxis Ultimates. My wife drives the car pretty easy most of the time.

I'm not saying this is true in all cases but this is one scenario.

Here's a link to a white paper by Stoptech
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Excerpts from the article:
"With adherent friction, some of the pad material diffuses across the interface between the pad and the disc and forms a very thin, uniform layer of pad material on the surface of the disc. As the friction surfaces of both disc and pad then comprise basically the same material, material can now cross the interface in both directions and the bonds break and reform. In fact, with adherent friction between pad and disc, the bonds between pad material and the deposits on the disc are transient in nature - they are continually being broken and some of them are continually reforming. "

"Regardless of pad composition, if both disc and pad are not properly broken in, material transfer between the two materials can take place in a random fashion - resulting is uneven deposits and vibration under braking."

"Depending upon the friction compound, easy use of the brakes for an extended period may lead to the removal of the transfer layer on the discs by the abrasive action of the pads. When we are going to exercise a car that has seen easy brake use for a while, a partial re-bedding process will prevent uneven pick up."

m733l

iTrader: (1)

after a couple of days, i noticed that the brakes do not engage until further down on the brake pedal. meaning the brake pedal will travel alot more before i feel the car slowing down. is this normal for this bbk? any body else notice this or do you think i need to re bleed the lines? or if there is anything else you guys can think of that may cause this?

Allout

Sounds like a re-bleed to me. Doesn't sound normal.

pits200

ya, re-bleed that shit, especially with the SS lines. It should be nice and firm, not mushy.

m733l

iTrader: (1)

it's pretty firm when its actually engages. it just takes awhile to do that. at any rate i'll re-bleed them just in case. thanks guys

m733l

iTrader: (1)

just re-bled the system and works great thanks guys

Allout

Excellent!

Did you do a Bedding process on the new rotors and pads?

Stoptech has a pretty good process. Similar to what a guy at Rotora told me to do also.
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...formance.shtml

m733l

iTrader: (1)

yea i tried to follow the steps as close as posible, but is it just me or is it pretty hard to find a place to actually perform this process. going 60-10 ten times is no easy task if you ask me. for the most part i did what rotora asked and i'm loving my brakes.

Allout

I know what you mean. I've got a specific road that I use for Bedding that luckily doesn't have much traffic.

m733l

iTrader: (1)

i got spacers. just wondering if anyone actually changed to the longer studs that came with the spacers or if you just used the factory studs? thanks in advance.

Allout

NSX-Tuner did. He picked up longer studs from Comptech.

m733l

iTrader: (1)

allout, are you using longer studs? i guess what i'm trying to find out is if it's ok to run factory studs?

Allout

I ran 5mm spacers and stock studs for 1 1/2 years without a problem. I think I was getting around 6 turns on my lugs. I just recently picked up some OZ Superleggeras and was able to get rid of my spacers.

I think with 5mm spacers, you'll be fine. Anything more and I would replace the lugs.

m733l

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the info allout. i have 18's on now that clear the caliper but it stiffens up the ride and i can hear the road alot more so i want to go back to stock. the spacer kit came with longer studs. if its not to hard to change then i'll go with them. but it's good to know that if it's a pain to install that the stock studs will work too.

g1underground

iTrader: (1)

I just asked about this about a week ago, I'm ordering the long ARP Honda studs for added security but I'm also using 3mm spacers for my 48 offset 17in Rotas. I got good clearence and the lugs have stayed tight with the stock studs. So far so good for my set up.

xenolite

I know this is kinda late but I just want to defend the stock brakes a bit.
I agree single piston is kinda shitty we should have atleast 2 piston.
The main weakness is not the piston but the pads, I use HP Plus pads for daily driving and once a month track sessions and its fine, I need to maintain them more because they dust a whole lot but I can stop as fast as the tires let me.

I had Axxis MM pads + cheap cross drilled before and on the track I got pretty scared when I pulled in the pits (due to brake fade) and saw my brakes smoking.

Now with the HP Plus pads I'm ok and the Powerslots don't warp.

I was thinking about SS lines and Legend Calipers but I bought headers instead.

So remember with the BBk you're also changing pads, which increases your stopping power also.

My

m733l

iTrader: (1)

just intsalled the spacer and put the stock wheels back on....damn that is one tight fit i guess i'll just have to wait and see what happens