RL caliper swap is driving me nuts!!!
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Ok guys, I've searched around to find my answer but I want to know from those of you that have installed the calipers. Everytime I brake and the car is decelerating at slow speeds (<20MPH) it squeals like a mofo. If I slightly step on the brakes it will decrease or disappear but then I have to slow down a mile away. I read a post where Morgan replied saying something about the rotors wearing in but this shit is embarrassing when I pull up to a light or to park. They are EBC rotors/pads, Paul's brackets, comptech SS lines. If what Morgan said is true is there a way to rapidly wear them in? Any input would be greatly appreciated!
Also I want to trim down the bolts that the calipers slide into but wanted to make sure it wouldnt cause any issues. When I installed the swap my 04 TL wheels didn't fit because the bolts stuck out too far, maybe like 1/8". Luckily my aspecs were sitting in the garage and I just slapped those on. Anywho does anyone else have issues with stock 17's?
Also I want to trim down the bolts that the calipers slide into but wanted to make sure it wouldnt cause any issues. When I installed the swap my 04 TL wheels didn't fit because the bolts stuck out too far, maybe like 1/8". Luckily my aspecs were sitting in the garage and I just slapped those on. Anywho does anyone else have issues with stock 17's?
i dont think stock 17's will clear the RL caliper from what I recall. I've heard the same about breaking in the pads and the noise factor. Not sure what to tell you on that one, maybe morgan can chime in.
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Can't tell if they are red pads because they painted with pads on (red). Does that make a difference? I'll check the shims also, good point.
The stud bolts like I said are just slightly to long to allow the 17" rim to fit. It looks like if I grind it down it should fit just fine but wanted to see if anyone ran across this issue. Thanks for the input guys. I will recheck when the weather isn't sub freezing!
The stud bolts like I said are just slightly to long to allow the 17" rim to fit. It looks like if I grind it down it should fit just fine but wanted to see if anyone ran across this issue. Thanks for the input guys. I will recheck when the weather isn't sub freezing!
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I cut the studs down, leaving about a thread or so showing (as Rajca said). The base 3G TL wheels fit, but it is a tight fit. Be careful reinstalling the wheel, you dont want to scratch your newly painted calipers.
Regarding the squeal - Mine squealed like a bitch for a very long time. I contacted EBC as well as Powerslot and they said it was normal and to give them time to fully bed in. Yes its embarrassing, but it will eventually go away.
Regarding the squeal - Mine squealed like a bitch for a very long time. I contacted EBC as well as Powerslot and they said it was normal and to give them time to fully bed in. Yes its embarrassing, but it will eventually go away.
Last edited by civicdrivr; Jan 25, 2013 at 08:21 PM.
squeal is likely due to the fact they are not heated up.. are u using ceramic pads (ceramic composite pads, i.e ceramic and other materials)
cause u need to heat them up to get rid of the squeal from the pads.. i've been there done that.. i'd go for the powerslot pads they never squeak at all.. trust i went through several pads before running into these..
see if the pads get quiet once they heat up nice... that will shed some light
cause u need to heat them up to get rid of the squeal from the pads.. i've been there done that.. i'd go for the powerslot pads they never squeak at all.. trust i went through several pads before running into these..
see if the pads get quiet once they heat up nice... that will shed some light
Since the first time I use RL caliper I never hear squealing on my brake,,, I use stock pad and 350z rotor drill and slot... I cut the bolt on the bracket so I can use my 17 wheel but I still need wheel spacer for that but look really awesome bc is tight.
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Thanks for all the replys guys! Looks like its just gonna have to go away with time. I pulled them off yesterday to put hub rings on and noticed a bit of residue (assuming brake fluid from when I bled them) on one pad. Cleaned them all off, checked shims and reinstalled. Squeal is still there but oh well. Thanks for all the input about trimming down the studs. I've got two sets of TL wheels and didn't want to get rid of them! Sorry I'm a wheel hoarder, got two sets of 8.5 aspecs too!
Thanks for all the replys guys! Looks like its just gonna have to go away with time. I pulled them off yesterday to put hub rings on and noticed a bit of residue (assuming brake fluid from when I bled them) on one pad. Cleaned them all off, checked shims and reinstalled. Squeal is still there but oh well. Thanks for all the input about trimming down the studs. I've got two sets of TL wheels and didn't want to get rid of them! Sorry I'm a wheel hoarder, got two sets of 8.5 aspecs too!
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^ cool, will do. I'm pretty sure it's just overspill from when I bled them though. I was in such a rush to clean them off the caliper that I just started wipin it down. Thanks for the advise though, I'll jack it up this weekend to check.
I just bought rl calipers and was wondering, what year and make do I need to buy for rotors and do I have to do or add anything to them to make them work? I will be buying fast brakes brackets as paul is not making them any longer.
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2005 350z rotors can't recall if touring or base though, brackets, pads, and SS lines since you're already going to get air in the system. Be careful with the fastbrakes brackets though, I've heard both good and bad quality control issues about these specific brackets.
has any one actually ran the math to see if RL calipers is actually an upgrade?
this is comparing an RL with a Brembo equipped TL.
it would be beneficial to find out if you're actually hurting performance or improving it.
this is comparing an RL with a Brembo equipped TL.
Originally Posted by 94eg!
RL Caliper = four 43mm pistons (5808.8 mm sq). TL Brembo = two 42mm & two 38mm piston (5039 mm sq). That's 15.3% more hydraulic area. Even to an idiot it should be plain to see you are increasing the front bias SUBSTANTIALLY just by switching installing RL calipers. But then you throw a 13 inch rotor on top of that??!?!?!? Now you are into complete Retardsville. This setup will DRASTICALLY upset bias, thereby increasing your minimum braking distance (maximum brake effort), and may even wreak havoc on your ABS system. Just ask IHC about his bogus Rotora kit. This is a terrible way to spend money and ruin a great car.



it would be beneficial to find out if you're actually hurting performance or improving it.
i didn't need math to tell me the difference between a 1 piston caliper vs stoping my supercharged cl with a 4 piston caliper. the difference was felt instantly.
So just to clarify, everyone has been cutting down the bolt on the bracket to get a better fit off these calipers? Any idea about how much off?
also..
How big of a spacer were you using and What wheels were you running? Stocks off of a TL with brembo's? or just CLS 17 stocks?
also..
How big of a spacer were you using and What wheels were you running? Stocks off of a TL with brembo's? or just CLS 17 stocks?
People on this forum don't really care if they perform better, they do it for looks. I am going with a Stoptech trophy kit because I do care.
I am not saying they are not an inprovement, just that it doesn't really matter for street driving.
The main reason to upgrade from 1 piston is rotors warping.
Not something I would do or recommend
Exactly what he said. For my cars, I use a copper based anti seize and I have never had a problem. I apply it to the back of the pads, the pad ears, and the shims.
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