Resting the ECU, a myth or fact?
#1
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
Resting the ECU, a myth or fact?
Even on vtec.net the tester discontected the ECU by removing the backup fuse for 30 sec....
Do we really have a memory for the ECU? or is it a myth?
Do we really have a memory for the ECU? or is it a myth?
#2
Ours has a memory but ours also learns as you drive it. Resetting it just starts it from scratch instead of learning from where you left off the last time you shut her down. Any major difference b/w how you do it is, as yet, unproven.
#4
Happy CL-S Pilot
Thread Starter
Reseting the PCM ( ECU):
It is well described in the helms maunal:
Just remove "back up fuse" [as described in the fuel and emission section] or "clock backup fuse " [as described in the Automatic Transmission section] from the under the dash fuse box, passenger side.
It is well described in the helms maunal:
Just remove "back up fuse" [as described in the fuel and emission section] or "clock backup fuse " [as described in the Automatic Transmission section] from the under the dash fuse box, passenger side.
#5
Working with Lumberg.
Hmmm,
The memory in the ECU is a S/DRAM based capacitance circuit. This means that a TOTAL disconnect of power would wipe the memory, but it would have to be long enough for the charge to drain fully. In normal circuits (like PC's), this is less than 1 second. In the case of the Honda/Acura ECU (which I do NOT pretend to be an expert of), I cannot imagine that the charge is much longer. The design is there to keep the memory function during "intermittent" power loss. The power loss (in the case os a car) doesn't really have to mean a total power loss, but a fluctuation in V or I.
Bottom line is the fuse method SHOULD work fine, theoretically. But my statement is only based off of tech, not practice. So take it for what it is worth (nothing usually).
The memory in the ECU is a S/DRAM based capacitance circuit. This means that a TOTAL disconnect of power would wipe the memory, but it would have to be long enough for the charge to drain fully. In normal circuits (like PC's), this is less than 1 second. In the case of the Honda/Acura ECU (which I do NOT pretend to be an expert of), I cannot imagine that the charge is much longer. The design is there to keep the memory function during "intermittent" power loss. The power loss (in the case os a car) doesn't really have to mean a total power loss, but a fluctuation in V or I.
Bottom line is the fuse method SHOULD work fine, theoretically. But my statement is only based off of tech, not practice. So take it for what it is worth (nothing usually).
#6
Former Sponsor
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I unplugged the fuse but got no results. i might have done it wrong or something, but I also disconnected tyhe battery for 3 hours which prompted me to enter the radio and navi codes then proceeded to drive the car like a bat out of hell. That worked wonders so however it works is beyond me, but it works. So far bigman and lou can vouch for this, they both drove my car before and after the ecu reset.
#7
Originally posted by Zapata
jrock,
Unplugging it also clears codes etc., There also could be other things going on that we don't know about.
jrock,
Unplugging it also clears codes etc., There also could be other things going on that we don't know about.
"Don't know about" - right like I said, unproven.
The end result is the same, it's just achieved from a different angle. Whether you disconnect the battery for 30 mins or you just start the car up and drive for a while, at the end of the day both cars should have completely adjusted to whatever new mods you installed.
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#8
Capo di Tutti Capi
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For what it's worth, on Fords you can quickly drain all system capacitors (including the computer's) by stepping on the brake for 15 seconds after you've disconnected the battery. Powering the brake lights drains all juice from the system. I'd bet this works on ours too.
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