My idle control valve crapped out in traffic yesterday and I ended up having to brake and gas at the same time to keep it from stalling. Installed a new one and after an ecu reset, it idles nicely now. It also cured the problem I had with my rpms dipping as I take off in 1st gear.

Here are some hot naked pics of it:

 

nice - how much did it cost you and how long did it take?

 

About 30 minutes. $149 from my local Honda stealer. Would have saved a lot if I got it online but I just wanted to fix it right away.

 

most of the IAC valve problems are simply the unit getting stuck, because of the black deposits that you can clearly see. A little carb cleaner should unstick it and get it right back working again. worked for me on other cars, don't see why it shouldnt work on the CL. Also, in your case the actual servo / motor assembly could have been burnt since the gradual resistance that is imposed by the buildup of deposits, so it might actually have needed to be replaced.

 

Anyone have a DIY on cleaning it yet? I read in the other thread that you have to remove the two bolts to get it by itself, but some said you didn't need to remove the TB, some said you did. If I manage to do this succesfully I'll see If I can make a DIY for cleaning it. Any other tips? I have intake/carb cleaner which I plan to use.

 

I think it's just easier to remove the TB. That way you can also clean out the carbon buildup on the TB & spray some cleaner into the intake manifold as well.

When I replaced my IAC valve I did it this way.

It's actually not very hard to do. It's very straight forward & mostly self explanatory.

 

very easy to replace. it'll do you some good to clean the TB being that you're already in that area.

TCM. i recommend you use a throttle body cleaner spray instead. when i was installing my Thermoblok spacers, i was cleaning my TB and used the stuff you mentioned. i soon had my IACV acting up. just a heads-up.

 

personally i used carb cleaner, sprayed it a few times and kinda swished the fluid around inside of the iacv, and did it until the fluid that came out was as clear as it went in (initially it was coming out black).

that seems to have worked for the time being

 

I'll get a can of that. Thanks for the heads up.

 

How much do I retorque the bolts back to?

 

Just sung them. Turn until they are tight then turn another 1/4 turn. You should be good.

 

Apparently I am an idiot, I believe I got all the bolts off, Unclipped a couple of the sensors, but I couldn't get the thing to budge a damn bit and I didn't want to break anything. . I got to get up early to run some errans so I just redid everything I undid for now.

Maybe it's time for me to get a helms. I might try again tomorrow after class when I have more time.

 

The TB may be stuck on there because of the gasket. A light tap or 2 around the TB with a large hammer will knock it loose. But please put a towel over the TB first so you don't damage it.

 

I'll get that a try later on this weekend. Would I need a new gasket?

 

Maybe. I didn't in the past, but you never know.

 

I'm doing mine this weekend too... I would definitely recommend a new gasket. I think they're about $1 or $2 from the dealership. Any air leaks from re-using the old gasket is going to cause issues (un-metered air past the MAF). Cheap insurance if you know what I mean. Good luck sir.

 

umm.......We do not have a Mass Air flow sensor

 

Ahh shoot, that right.

Any air getting past that IACV from a busted gasket would cause a funky idle though.

 

any pics of the throttle body? i have no idea what that is or what it looks like.

 

how did you get these two pieces apart? mine has a 5 star head and i dont want to strip it :\. or is it ok to just spray carb cleaner in there even with the sensor?

 

I know this is late, but that did do the trick, used a mallet instead though.

 

So I just did all this and it seems to be worse. There is a major increase in noise from the air box, and I can hear a clicking noise from what looks like an air valve in the upper drivers side of the engine compartment. car surges when put in gear.

Cleaned the iacv, lubed the shaft, cleaned out the throttle body a bit. My surge goes from 1k-3k at idle. If I turn on the air reduces to 2k ish. thing sat for about 4 months while I waited for money and parts.

When I pulled the iacv it seems frozen. It was hard to spin at first and then I could spin it but it made a grinding sound as It passed against the back part of the housing. after I shot it a ton with TB cleaner and scrubbed with a brush I could spin it a great deal better, but it still seemed rough. Dont know how it should feel, my guess was more like a skate wheel.

Any thoughts? also has the P0505 error code.

edit: did something happen here that reset our accounts? I am not a new member as you can tell (joined 1/05) but thread count and status seem new...

 

ok this might be a related question.(car is an Auto)
When i come to a stop from the interstate or from just red light to redlight it drops the rpms real low like its gonna stahl but them comes back.
it is not changing RPMs like yours but it just made me thing this could be a sign its gonna happen. any one know what it is?

 

i think you need a new one..

 

What did you use to take the star screws off?

 

EXACTLY!!! I took my TB off to diy port job on it and i think some metal shavings got in there and made it stick... So i soaked it in gasoline then sprayed w carb cleaner and took an air compressor to it and PROBLEM SOLVED!

its just kinda a pain getting those two little screws out from underneath.

 

that happened to me the first time... get a coat hanger or something small u can fit in there and play w the valves while u spray the carb cleaner ...air compressor works really well too

 

Get the correct bits, or dremel a slot into them and use it as a flat head screw. Be careful though, they could be very tight so you may snap the heads off if you use the second method.

 

never thought to use the dremel

 

i would just clap it down so it's secured to something and then get the correct bit in a drill and it should come loose.

something i do on the reg for cracking old bolts with a drill is i will lean on the drill as i push the trigger and this prevents it from popping out or stripping it

 

anyone know the Honda part # for this?

 

call ur dlr and ask them, it's one of the only things they do for free lol

put em to use for a change

 

16022-p8a-a03

 

thanks. mine has been phucking up lately

 

did your VSA and Check Engine light come on?

 

Yes the check engine light has come on, but i didn't run the code yet, so it could even be something else

 

Change your IAC and be done with it. I pulled my intake, cleaned a ton of Carbon out of my intake and EGR port. I can't believe the car even ran. When I was putting it back together I decided to clean the throttle body. The first start produced the up and down idle. I unplugged the IAC. That eliminated the surge but produced a rough idle and it produced a code. I can't remember what the code was but it was idle related. I pulled the throttle body and replaced the IAC with aftermarket for around $100. I didn't feel like pulling the throttle body off for a third time. With the new IAC, spotless intake and throttle body the 2000 3.2 TL runs like a scalded dog.

 

nice writeup. a few questions though. Ive got a 2000 TL and have already cleaned EGR port and replaced IM gaskets. That improved my low end power and helped a lot, but I have issues with idle. My car will be (when warmed up) idling normal at around 750rpm, but will drop to 500 or less for a short second then back to normal. It's not a misfire, as I have no CEL on and have checked all ignition/coil packs. I also cleaned my TB when I cleaned the EGR port, but I neglected to replace the TB gaskets (and I think I cracked one). I know of the carb spray diagnosis to find vac leaks, but I 'think' it's either A. my TB gasket leaking air causing the idle to fluctuate or B. my IACV is bad. Now here are the questions I have lol.

1. Im experiencing power loss, specifically in lower rpms (before VTEC kicks in)
2. When engine is warm, rpms fluctuate similar to it misfiring, and when I give it gas itll wanna stall, but it quickly goes back to normal after jamming down on the accelerator. Similarly, when I start my car after running it for a while, it'll misfire SUPER bad. ive read this is called heat blow-by or some term, something about the heat in the engine.
3. I just want to know what route to take. i plan on replacing all TB gaskets and cleaning it, and I think my IACV is either bad/clogged. SOOO, am i Just pissing up a flag pole trying to clean it instead of replacing it? Should I clean it and see what hapens or should I just go with a new one? Also, once I get the IACV off, i just spray the inside with cleaner? Or do I need to take it completely apart? (ive never taken it off before, just the IM and TB). sorry for the goddamn novel, but I love my acura and acurazine members are pretty much my mechanic lol. get back with me if anyone has suggestions for me. Thanks!!

 

^the afro engineered CAI caused massive leaks. new pipe and vac lines, and TB gaskets and im good! thanks

 

Great discussion all, thanks much!