Redline's Waterwetter. .

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Old 05-08-2001, 05:36 AM
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Redline's Waterwetter. .

anyone use it? it's been out forever, i know, and is praised by many, it drops temperature by 10-15 degrees. .i can get em for about $12. .

for those that don't know and will ask questions :

WaterWetter provides a substantial reduction in cooling system operating temperature. Just 12 oz. in a 16 quart system can reduce operating temperature as much as 30 degrees.

Red Line WaterWetter with Rust and Corrosion Inhibitor (liquid) is designed to provide improved metal wetting and excellent corrosion inhibition when added to plain water or a glycol coolant. The most poorly maintained system in an automobile is usually the cooling system. Proper cooling system maintenance is very critical for most engines which utilize more aluminum. Aluminum has a very high corrosion potential, even higher than zinc, which is very widely used as a sacrificial anode. The only property which enables aluminum to be used in a cooling system is that it will form protective films under proper conditions which will prevent the uncontrolled corrosive attack of acids or bases. Poor aluminum corrosion inhibition will cause the dissolution of aluminum at the heat rejection surfaces, weakening the cooling system walls and water pump casing and the head gasket mating surfaces. These corrosion products will then form deposits on the lower temperature surfaces such as in radiator tubes which have very poor heat transfer properties, causing a significant reduction in the cooling ability of the entire system. Red Line WaterWetter will provide the proper corrosion inhibition for all cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, brass, and lead.

Red Line WaterWetter can reduce cooling system temperatures compared to glycol solutions and even plain water. Water has excellent heat transfer properties in its liquid state, but very high surface tension makes it difficult to release water vapor from the metal surface. Under heavy load conditions, much of the heat in the cylinder head is transferred by localized boiling at hot spots, even though the bulk of the cooling solution is below the boiling point. Red Lines unique WaterWetter reduces the surface tension of water by a factor of two, which means that much smaller vapor bubbles will be formed. Vapor bubbles on the metal surface create an insulating layer which impedes heat transfer. releasing these vapor bubbles from the metal surface can improve the heat transfer properties in this localized boiling region by as much as 15%.

Key Benefits
-Doubles the wetting ability of water
-Improves heat transfer
-Reduces cylinder head temperatures
-May allow more spark advance for increased torque
-Reduces rust, corrosion and electrolysis of all metals
-Provides long term corrosion protection
-Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
-Prevents foaming
-Reduces cavitation corrosion
-Complexes with hard water to reduce scale


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Old 05-08-2001, 05:50 AM
  #2  
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by so cal type s:
anyone use it? it's been out forever, i know, and is praised by many, it drops temperature by 10-15 degrees. .i can get em for about $12. .

for those that don't know and will ask questions :

WaterWetter provides a substantial reduction in cooling system operating temperature. Just 12 oz. in a 16 quart system can reduce operating temperature as much as 30 degrees.

Red Line WaterWetter with Rust and Corrosion Inhibitor (liquid) is designed to provide improved metal wetting and excellent corrosion inhibition when added to plain water or a glycol coolant. The most poorly maintained system in an automobile is usually the cooling system. Proper cooling system maintenance is very critical for most engines which utilize more aluminum. Aluminum has a very high corrosion potential, even higher than zinc, which is very widely used as a sacrificial anode. The only property which enables aluminum to be used in a cooling system is that it will form protective films under proper conditions which will prevent the uncontrolled corrosive attack of acids or bases. Poor aluminum corrosion inhibition will cause the dissolution of aluminum at the heat rejection surfaces, weakening the cooling system walls and water pump casing and the head gasket mating surfaces. These corrosion products will then form deposits on the lower temperature surfaces such as in radiator tubes which have very poor heat transfer properties, causing a significant reduction in the cooling ability of the entire system. Red Line WaterWetter will provide the proper corrosion inhibition for all cooling system metals, including aluminum, cast iron, steel, copper, brass, and lead.

Red Line WaterWetter can reduce cooling system temperatures compared to glycol solutions and even plain water. Water has excellent heat transfer properties in its liquid state, but very high surface tension makes it difficult to release water vapor from the metal surface. Under heavy load conditions, much of the heat in the cylinder head is transferred by localized boiling at hot spots, even though the bulk of the cooling solution is below the boiling point. Red Lines unique WaterWetter reduces the surface tension of water by a factor of two, which means that much smaller vapor bubbles will be formed. Vapor bubbles on the metal surface create an insulating layer which impedes heat transfer. releasing these vapor bubbles from the metal surface can improve the heat transfer properties in this localized boiling region by as much as 15%.

Key Benefits
-Doubles the wetting ability of water
-Improves heat transfer
-Reduces cylinder head temperatures
-May allow more spark advance for increased torque
-Reduces rust, corrosion and electrolysis of all metals
-Provides long term corrosion protection
-Cleans and lubricates water pump seals
-Prevents foaming
-Reduces cavitation corrosion
-Complexes with hard water to reduce scale


</font>
My Mazda RX-7 turbo racer buddy swears by it -- he really thinks it is great stuff. It does work, and he really likes it. Redline makes great products, however, I would love to have someone else "pioneer"/"try-this-out" on our cars. I don't know how it mixes with various coolants. I asked my friend this, and he said the Mazda people said it was OK.

Example: I ask the dealer if they mind putting in Mobil 1, and they say they do it all of the time.

It will probably work wonders, but I haven't noticed any problem with the cooling system, but I haven't been to Death Valley when its 130F in this car (I have done that in the Bimmer -- and it could have used it...)

So, does your car overheat?

Are you trying to cut down on the current pull from the fans cutting in during stops and idling?

Or is there something I missed....

It's just that I have never seen the car overheat in traffic when its been 105 in the valley (last summer)...



------------------
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Old 05-08-2001, 06:43 AM
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I used two bottles of it in my other car when it was running hot last summer and didn't notice much of a change in temp. Ending up swapping out the radiator for a more efficient one, which fixed the problem. (My experience may not be typical due to the old radiator though.) It is compatible with coolants but they suggest straight water treated with WaterWetter for maximum cooling effect.

Eric, So Cal’s car is probably not overheating; he’s probably just looking for a way to have the engine run a little cooler since performance usually goes up a bit from the engine running a little richer. And there's less chance for fuel pre-ignition ("pinging") avoiding a reduction in spark timing.

Speaking of additional cooling, how about swapping out our 194 degree thermostats for a lower temp one (say, 180 degrees)? That worked well in my other car.
Old 05-08-2001, 08:59 AM
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I've used this over the years.... Most benefit was in cast iron v8 Chevy applications. No intention to use it in the CLS.

------------------
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Old 05-08-2001, 01:30 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by tinman:
I used two bottles of it in my other car when it was running hot last summer and didn't notice much of a change in temp. Ending up swapping out the radiator for a more efficient one, which fixed the problem. (My experience may not be typical due to the old radiator though.) It is compatible with coolants but they suggest straight water treated with WaterWetter for maximum cooling effect.

Eric, So Cal’s car is probably not overheating; he’s probably just looking for a way to have the engine run a little cooler since performance usually goes up a bit from the engine running a little richer. And there's less chance for fuel pre-ignition ("pinging") avoiding a reduction in spark timing.

Speaking of additional cooling, how about swapping out our 194 degree thermostats for a lower temp one (say, 180 degrees)? That worked well in my other car.
</font>

You don't just add the stuff. You change the ratio of coolent to water. So normally you run a 50/50 mix. With WW you run say a 65/35 water/coolent mixture or something to that effect. That's how you it lowers temps.
Old 05-08-2001, 02:42 PM
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teh Senior Instigator
 
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hey so cal type S, you gonna come to the meet on saturday?
Old 05-08-2001, 02:54 PM
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Also WW is used by motorcycly racing teams and track days. The rationale being that WW does not leave a slick patch when it leaks out like coolant does. Rarely do people run with WW during day to day driving. WW is also more environmentally friendly I believe, although I am not certain. I do know it does not leave the residue behind like coolant does.

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Old 05-08-2001, 03:08 PM
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Just curious:

Why do people find the need to quote the entire previous post when replying? It's annoying to scroll through that extra page of text.

-J

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Old 05-08-2001, 03:37 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by JRock:
Just curious:

Why do people find the need to quote the entire previous post when replying? It's annoying to scroll through that extra page of text.

-J

</font>
need a tissue?
Old 05-08-2001, 04:21 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by CLpower:
hey so cal type S, you gonna come to the meet on saturday?</font>
hey playboy. i'll be there. .the only problem is i have problems with waking up in the morning. .

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Old 05-08-2001, 04:32 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Closer:

You don't just add the stuff. You change the ratio of coolent to water. So normally you run a 50/50 mix. With WW you run say a 65/35 water/coolent mixture or something to that effect. That's how you it lowers temps.
</font>
Well, I didn't just add the stuff. I drained all the coolant, refilled with just water and then added two bottles of WW. According to Redline info, that offers the greatest heat transfer.

http://www.redlineoil.com/redlineoil/wwti.htm
Old 05-08-2001, 09:42 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by so cal type s:
hey playboy. i'll be there. .the only problem is i have problems with waking up in the morning. .

</font>
ditto

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