Rear Brake Pad Change
Rear Brake Pad Change
All:
Finally, I need to change the stock rear pads on the CL. (I got 66,000 miles out of them - wow) I was first wondering what pads everyone was using in the rear that still kept the factory rotors?
Could someone please post a relpy or point me to a previous thread that has a write-up of the steps need to do this job? REAR BRAKES
Also, what are the differences in doing the fronts? I had my front rotors upgraded to cross drilled slotted rotors with HAWK HPS pads and they are getting low too. I can just get new pads and install them using the current shims?
One last thing, what is the proper bedding process for new pads?
Thanks in advance,
John
Finally, I need to change the stock rear pads on the CL. (I got 66,000 miles out of them - wow) I was first wondering what pads everyone was using in the rear that still kept the factory rotors?
Could someone please post a relpy or point me to a previous thread that has a write-up of the steps need to do this job? REAR BRAKES
Also, what are the differences in doing the fronts? I had my front rotors upgraded to cross drilled slotted rotors with HAWK HPS pads and they are getting low too. I can just get new pads and install them using the current shims?
One last thing, what is the proper bedding process for new pads?
Thanks in advance,
John
Sounds like your fronts are wearing quicker than they should based on the rears being so worn. I still need to do the rears myself. I personally don't want to spend the dough on really nice rotors for the rear though. I will probably just buy some decent OEM style rotors for the rear and get some nicer ceramic pads. The rear is no more difficult to do than the front. (at least on every other car I've ever had. Haven't tried on the CL yet.)
Oh, and in response to your "bedding" question, it sometimes varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Typically, you do 2 or 3 straight line stops from about 30mph but DO NOT come to a complete stop. Just slow down to 5-10mph or so. Drive a little to let them cool. Then do 2 or 3 straight line stops from about 50-60mph, again NOT coming to a complete stop but to 5-10mph. After that, just take it easy for a full tank of gas (or two!). No crazy braking. Just normal grandma driving.
After that, they should be good to go for more severe use.
Oh, and in response to your "bedding" question, it sometimes varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Typically, you do 2 or 3 straight line stops from about 30mph but DO NOT come to a complete stop. Just slow down to 5-10mph or so. Drive a little to let them cool. Then do 2 or 3 straight line stops from about 50-60mph, again NOT coming to a complete stop but to 5-10mph. After that, just take it easy for a full tank of gas (or two!). No crazy braking. Just normal grandma driving.
After that, they should be good to go for more severe use.
I have 54K miles on my car with original rear pads & rotors. I have about 1/3 life left. I already bought Akebono pads for the rear.
I am just going to resurface my rear rotors, no need to buy new ones.
Rears are not as important as fronts, get the good stuff for front.
I am just going to resurface my rear rotors, no need to buy new ones.
Rears are not as important as fronts, get the good stuff for front.
Originally Posted by TRILIGHT
Sounds like your fronts are wearing quicker than they should based on the rears being so worn.
I noticed that when I swapped to EBC pads that the fronts were gone in no time. It could have been because of the NSX calipers. But also the softer compound pads will definately wear faster that they should. I think the stock pads are pretty hard compared to the high performance, non-ceramic pads.
Originally Posted by fuzzy02CLS
Your already spendig the $$ why not do it right the 1st time? How much really are you saving ? $50? 

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