Quick question about spark plugs...
#1
Quick question about spark plugs...
So the guy who sold me the car just sent me some new sparkplugs, but they are Denso 5310's.
Looking online, it seems like they are made for the RSX. Can I use them on the CL, or is the guy just a dumbass?
Inspecting side-by-side, they seem identical but with a slightly larger gap. Can I safely use a gapping tool and use the plugs, or should I just ditch the things and pay the $50 for a brand new set of the correct plugs?
Looking online, it seems like they are made for the RSX. Can I use them on the CL, or is the guy just a dumbass?
Inspecting side-by-side, they seem identical but with a slightly larger gap. Can I safely use a gapping tool and use the plugs, or should I just ditch the things and pay the $50 for a brand new set of the correct plugs?
#3
u never want to mess with the gap on the spark plugs. i know that denso plugs are alright to use, but not sure which ones. i and many member on here have great success with iridium spark plugs. u can check the gap, but i wouldnt change it.
#5
Yeah I know Denso's are pretty nice, but I think the 5310s arent designed for the CL.
I think the CL version is like a 5303 or something.
However, he had the 5310's in there already, and I think an acura dealership did it...?
But, nowhere online can I find that its ok to use those plugs on a CL-S.
I think the CL version is like a 5303 or something.
However, he had the 5310's in there already, and I think an acura dealership did it...?
But, nowhere online can I find that its ok to use those plugs on a CL-S.
#6
actually you want to maybe look closer at what they fit, cause i remember on NGK's website the K series engine plugs being the same as a type-S ones, so have a Type-S or Preminuim cause they do take different plugs
also Denso plugs are perfectly fine, Honda even gives a part # for them in the owner's manual
but i would not change the gap if they are correct plugs, and only check, you are too likely to chip or crack the coating on the electrodes, then that coating was pointless
and if they are not the correct plugs anyways just ditch them and get the correct ones, and like others had said i prefer NGKs too
also Denso plugs are perfectly fine, Honda even gives a part # for them in the owner's manual
but i would not change the gap if they are correct plugs, and only check, you are too likely to chip or crack the coating on the electrodes, then that coating was pointless
and if they are not the correct plugs anyways just ditch them and get the correct ones, and like others had said i prefer NGKs too
#7
Are you supercharged, turbo'ed or nitrous? If so they might be a cooler plug. I would read the box for the gap spec. It should say weather to gap them or not to change it. If it says not to gap them then dont. But if it does not specify then I would gap them to what ever the CL is asking for on spark plug gap.
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#8
actually you want to maybe look closer at what they fit, cause i remember on NGK's website the K series engine plugs being the same as a type-S ones, so have a Type-S or Preminuim cause they do take different plugs
also Denso plugs are perfectly fine, Honda even gives a part # for them in the owner's manual
but i would not change the gap if they are correct plugs, and only check, you are too likely to chip or crack the coating on the electrodes, then that coating was pointless
and if they are not the correct plugs anyways just ditch them and get the correct ones, and like others had said i prefer NGKs too
also Denso plugs are perfectly fine, Honda even gives a part # for them in the owner's manual
but i would not change the gap if they are correct plugs, and only check, you are too likely to chip or crack the coating on the electrodes, then that coating was pointless
and if they are not the correct plugs anyways just ditch them and get the correct ones, and like others had said i prefer NGKs too
What coating are you talking about? Do you have an article link or something about coating the plugs, so I can read it? I don't understand how gapping a plug is going to chip it. Are you saying there is a coating on the ground electrode?
Last edited by CH46ESeaKnight; 12-13-2009 at 03:59 PM.
#9
the platnum or iridium coating, those suckers are not going to be solid platnium or iridium, it would cost WAY.... too much, and be like $50 per plug or more
#10
The BOSCH plats are the only ones I've seen with a ground electrode coating. Yttrium coated on thier +2's and +4's. They are a no gap plug. I don't know how much of thier center electrode is platinum. Maybe just the tip or a low amount in a other wise common meatal through the entire electrode.
The Densos have a iridium tip welded on, so not a whole lot used there. (Still a great plug non the less), and it is a Iridium alloy. But they also call for no gapping.
Good point either way.
Last edited by CH46ESeaKnight; 12-13-2009 at 05:07 PM.
#11
wow just found this on the Platinums. Weather it's true or not, I don't nkow.
BOSH claims
Bosch Platinum+2 offers revolutionary firing technology, which combines the advantages of 2 nickel-yttrium ground electrodes, pure platinum center electrode and surface air gap technology for optimum engine performance, smoother acceleration and better gas mileage.
Wonder how much of that electrode is pure, or if there are just talking about the tip.
BOSH claims
Bosch Platinum+2 offers revolutionary firing technology, which combines the advantages of 2 nickel-yttrium ground electrodes, pure platinum center electrode and surface air gap technology for optimum engine performance, smoother acceleration and better gas mileage.
Wonder how much of that electrode is pure, or if there are just talking about the tip.
#12
wow just found this on the Platinums. Weather it's true or not, I don't nkow.
BOSH claims
Bosch Platinum+2 offers revolutionary firing technology, which combines the advantages of 2 nickel-yttrium ground electrodes, pure platinum center electrode and surface air gap technology for optimum engine performance, smoother acceleration and better gas mileage.
Wonder how much of that electrode is pure, or if there are just talking about the tip.
BOSH claims
Bosch Platinum+2 offers revolutionary firing technology, which combines the advantages of 2 nickel-yttrium ground electrodes, pure platinum center electrode and surface air gap technology for optimum engine performance, smoother acceleration and better gas mileage.
Wonder how much of that electrode is pure, or if there are just talking about the tip.
#13
This is the only site I found that lists it as a type-s plug:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1411175k292271
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1411175k292271
#14
This is the only site I found that lists it as a type-s plug:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1411175k292271
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...1411175k292271
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=IK22
and the actual part # is IK22 and the 5310 is only the stock #
and this lists all the applications for that plug:
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_fitment.asp?pid=IK22
so it looks like you need to get the correct plugs then
#15
FYI it's not so much how it looks , or even the gap, it's the HEAT RANGE that matters most! How much heat is transferred to the heads from the plug is determined by it's internal construction. Got a hot plug? It transfers heat out slowly. Got a cold plug? It transfers heat out rapidly. Make sure the application is correct to the engine!
#16
try this:
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=IK22
and the actual part # is IK22 and the 5310 is only the stock #
and this lists all the applications for that plug:
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_fitment.asp?pid=IK22
so it looks like you need to get the correct plugs then
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_cross.asp?pid=IK22
and the actual part # is IK22 and the 5310 is only the stock #
and this lists all the applications for that plug:
http://www.sparkplugs.com/results_fitment.asp?pid=IK22
so it looks like you need to get the correct plugs then
And just for my $0.02, I bought my car with the "correct" Champion plugs in it () and changed to the NGK Iridium Lazers and it was like night and day... A new car, almost
#17
and yeah honda's geneally run the best on NGK, and Denso (maybe not as much, but proably not even noticeable from NGK)
#18
I ran the autolites basic copper plug 1 heat range cooler in my Jetta at 22psi on 93 octane, and 27psi on 104 and they were flawless. I was very happy with them over stock. I did try some Denso's and thought there was some knocking/ping at 22 psi, but they were the stock heat range, so that could have done it. either way I liked the Auto's. Everyone will have a diff view.
I also have tried the AC delco rapid fire (I think they were Iridium), and i ran them for about 60,000 miles in my Tahoe, and it was modified, the biggest mod was cam, ECU by Westers garage in Canada, and raised compression to 10.5 to 1. and more stuff. I was hard on it and those plugs still look servicable at 55K. Then I hit 2 deer, and the Tahoe was no more.
Im about to do the plugs in the wifes Pacifica and will likely try the Bosch Iridium/Platinium Fusion 4 plugs. I have to take the manifiold off to get to them so I'm looking for a plug with long service life.
I also have tried the AC delco rapid fire (I think they were Iridium), and i ran them for about 60,000 miles in my Tahoe, and it was modified, the biggest mod was cam, ECU by Westers garage in Canada, and raised compression to 10.5 to 1. and more stuff. I was hard on it and those plugs still look servicable at 55K. Then I hit 2 deer, and the Tahoe was no more.
Im about to do the plugs in the wifes Pacifica and will likely try the Bosch Iridium/Platinium Fusion 4 plugs. I have to take the manifiold off to get to them so I'm looking for a plug with long service life.
#22
Here you go from Wikipedia;
The operating temperature of a spark plug is the actual physical temperature at the tip of the spark plug within the running engine. This is determined by a number of factors, but primarily the actual temperature within the combustion chamber. There is no direct relationship between the actual operating temperature of the spark plug and spark voltage. However, the level of torque currently being produced by the engine will strongly influence spark plug operating temperature because the maximum temperature and pressure occurs when the engine is operating near peak torque output (torque and RPM directly determine the power output). The temperature of the insulator responds to the thermal conditions it is exposed to in the combustion chamber but not vice versa. If the tip of the spark plug is too hot it can cause pre-ignition leading to detonation/knocking and damage may occur. If it is too cold, electrically conductive deposits may form on the insulator causing a loss of spark energy or the actual shorting-out of the spark current.
Wikipedia
The rest of it is here.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug
The operating temperature of a spark plug is the actual physical temperature at the tip of the spark plug within the running engine. This is determined by a number of factors, but primarily the actual temperature within the combustion chamber. There is no direct relationship between the actual operating temperature of the spark plug and spark voltage. However, the level of torque currently being produced by the engine will strongly influence spark plug operating temperature because the maximum temperature and pressure occurs when the engine is operating near peak torque output (torque and RPM directly determine the power output). The temperature of the insulator responds to the thermal conditions it is exposed to in the combustion chamber but not vice versa. If the tip of the spark plug is too hot it can cause pre-ignition leading to detonation/knocking and damage may occur. If it is too cold, electrically conductive deposits may form on the insulator causing a loss of spark energy or the actual shorting-out of the spark current.
Wikipedia
The rest of it is here.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spark_plug
#23
I ran the autolites basic copper plug 1 heat range cooler in my Jetta at 22psi on 93 octane, and 27psi on 104 and they were flawless. I was very happy with them over stock. I did try some Denso's and thought there was some knocking/ping at 22 psi, but they were the stock heat range, so that could have done it. either way I liked the Auto's. Everyone will have a diff view.
I also have tried the AC delco rapid fire (I think they were Iridium), and i ran them for about 60,000 miles in my Tahoe, and it was modified, the biggest mod was cam, ECU by Westers garage in Canada, and raised compression to 10.5 to 1. and more stuff. I was hard on it and those plugs still look servicable at 55K. Then I hit 2 deer, and the Tahoe was no more.
Im about to do the plugs in the wifes Pacifica and will likely try the Bosch Iridium/Platinium Fusion 4 plugs. I have to take the manifiold off to get to them so I'm looking for a plug with long service life.
I also have tried the AC delco rapid fire (I think they were Iridium), and i ran them for about 60,000 miles in my Tahoe, and it was modified, the biggest mod was cam, ECU by Westers garage in Canada, and raised compression to 10.5 to 1. and more stuff. I was hard on it and those plugs still look servicable at 55K. Then I hit 2 deer, and the Tahoe was no more.
Im about to do the plugs in the wifes Pacifica and will likely try the Bosch Iridium/Platinium Fusion 4 plugs. I have to take the manifiold off to get to them so I'm looking for a plug with long service life.
ac delco's are factory in the tahoe , it can still proably run better with ngk's but proably not anything noticeable
actually i think champions might actually be alright in the pacifica, cause i think they are actually the factory one's in there, but i would still proably go with NGK's if i had a choice
and the bosch plugs are normally not ones that you get what you pay for, especially the 4's, the center electrodes seem to wear down REALLY FAST, then they start to misfire ever so slightly, let alone with all those electrodes it kinda blocks the air/fuel mixture from actually reaching the spark and then expanding out (you kinda want it open around the electrodes)
#24
And if my Type-S is stock, is it a bad idea to go one step colder?
I mean, the dude gave me $80 worth of plugs, thats why I am considering just throwing them in there.
Also, excuse my ignorance, but what is sc?
I mean, the dude gave me $80 worth of plugs, thats why I am considering just throwing them in there.
Also, excuse my ignorance, but what is sc?
#25
sell them to someone with one of those cars listed on the list i posted above^; or try returning them (not the best idea, be better to sell them to someone else, and not hurt your future parts supply place)
Super Charger is sc
#26
Look at the article I posted and read about the heat ranges. Then you can decide if thier worth it.
#27
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