I have a moutain run with a few other members coming up toward the end of October. My car has almost new brake pads, but the rotors are warped and have already been resurfaced once. My question is can I just get some new rotors or will I need to purchase some pads also?

 

When you do brakes, pads need to be changed with rotors and vice versa.

 

u should replace the pads. but its ok to just slap on some rotors, i know ppl that do that with no problem, just sand the pads so they dont have any debris or scuff marks on them.

 

Just toss on the rotors and don't worry about it. The pads will bed to the new rotors in a few miles.

 

Sweet, I've talked to some other people and they said that just getting new rotors will be fine. I just need some good brakes while I'm in the mountains.

 

get some drilled or slotted or dimpled or drilled and slotted.

 

I heard drilled ones aren't so great, that slotted rotors are best. Anyone know? I might need to change my rotors + pads in a couple months.

 

i have drilled and slotted. many of my friends that race have drilled and slotted with no problems, if u get cheap one, too much heat and pressure on the rotor can cause it to crack from the drilled hole

 

No problems even if you brake hard?

 

yup. well i have some minor stress cracks but nothing i wasnt expecting when u brake hard from 130+, drag race, and auto x the car. had teh same thing happen to my ebc dimpled and slotted rotors but the ones i got now stop a hell lot better.

 

Well since I'm not taking my car onto a track, just need more reliable rotors for a daily driver, would just slotted work fine? Just wondering, I don't really want to put anything unnecessary on it.

 

slotted will work fine. what kind of pads r u using?

 

I just planning on getting some cheap rotors until I can afford the nice ones that I want. They won't be on for that long.

 

just resurface your old ones in the mean time then.

i heard that the drilled will cause warpage, so i would try slotted first.

and you can just slap the rotors on no problem. Im using 2.5 year old pads with 30k on them with my new rotors. no problem. its just a recommendation.

 

Err...... don't know..

 

the I heard is strong in this thread.

While you can reuse pads, its NOT recommended. The pad can take the shape of a bad rotor and cause the new rotor to wear uneven.

 

change the pads. i didn't and my new rotors warped right away.

 

If money is tight you can just replace the rotors and leave the old pads provided they still have a very flat wear surface. You can make sure they do if the surface of the old rotor is very smooth while running your finger radialy (out from the center). If there are high ridges or waves I would replace the pads also. Either way, make sure you give the brakes as many miles as possible of normal driving before you go beat the hell out of them on the mountain run. If you do not replace the pads you will cause the Rotors to warp much more quickly than not. The uneven contact surfaces of the rotor and pad cause localized excessive heat build up on the new rotor. Slotted and drilled rotors should not be resurfaced for the same reasons mentioned below.

I have had quite a few cars with the aftermarket drilled and slotted rotors. I beat the piss out of all of them making many stops from all speeds. No track use at all. Mostly used on Hondas.

All the rotors warped quickly at some point just like the OEM did. I used Brembo etc so they were not crap. They all will warp eventually. If the mass of the material in the rotor is to small to begin with the rotors will warp regardless of the design of holes slots, metallurgy, etc. It was only when I upgraded to a BBK that I finally stopped warping rotors.

With all that said, I learned two things;

1.) 99% of the drilled OEM size rotors will develop stress cracks radialy from the holes in the rotor. This is caused by the excessive heat generated by the excessive braking the buyer thinks he has on a "modified" rotor and the fact that the holes are drilled in blanks (stock rotors) causing the metal at the holes to already be significantly stressed. Continued use after radial cracks appear can result in a fractured rotor which could lock up a wheel at speed. I have seen the cracks as early as 5000 miles. My opinion is that drilled OEM size rotors are for "show" and not "go".

2.) Slotted rotors are very common among enthusiast drivers who keep there stock size brakes. The slots are much better at clearing the pads of debris and effectively doing the same thing the drilled rotors do. Since the slots do not remove as much material nor do they penetrate all the way through the rotor, they do not affect the structural integrity or thermal capacity of the rotor nearly as much and are less likely to crack. However, they can crack just like the drilled rotors.

 

^^^ well said..

Yea I need to do brakes on my car too and i was thinking about getting the willwood 13' brake kit for 700 + s/h and duties. But that's a lot of coin for something I really don't need. I don't beat the shyt out of my cl at all. I just have POO rotors.

I am prolly just gonna buy DBA front rotors. (these rotors do not have conventional cooling vans in the sense how they are straight lined. it's like a bunch of dots all perfectly placed apart from each other. this way air passes THROUGH the entire rotor. even partially in the hub if am not mistaken.) And then ebc rear rotors.

Both will be cross drilled and slotted. I like the hole because a lot of break dust goes into the rotor and then spinns out behind the face of ur rims. I do like low maintenance

but thats a lot of coin, and i still need back rotors.

I think i will wait it out tho and buy the bbk when i can do everything all at once.

 

cl-slick I say get some dba's. They're a really good company but aren't too known cause dba is based in from Australia.