CLSpeedster

Ok, ive searched and i realy havent found anything good on pulleys. AEM makes a set and so does Unorthodox racing. Any thoughts or opinions on these. I would like to know about strain on the engine and rough gains if you know.It seems like a good bolt-on for the money. Thanks

01CLKID

how much hp do these actually add anyone dyno??

mclarenf3387

This has been well discussed.

AEM=Crap, go Unorthodox Racing.

The only pulley that really gives a gain is the crank pulley. It nets you about 8-10 HP.

01CLKID

this sounds stupid....excess of 100 dollars for 8 hp get something that actually helps

Lord Helmet

They are supposed to help.

CLSpeedster

yah ok go unorthodox, but doesnt a lightweight crank pulley strain out the engine? i dont wanna do that. the accesory pulleys dont pull any HP? for a little over 100 bucks 8 or so HP isnt a bad deal at all.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

Well you'll soon learn that 8-10 hp for $175 (what the crank pulley costs) is a gold mine. Let's say you consider a supercharger and it costs you $4,000 and you get 50whp. 4000/50 = 80. So you just spent $80 for each unit of hp. Now if you take $175/10 = 17.5. Now you spent $17.50 for each unit of hp. So I would hardly consider that a bad deal. That is one of the cheapest bang for the bucks you're gonna get.

Also the pulley will not put strain on your engine. If anything it will help out since the pulley is lighter and takes less to move.

fuzzy02CLS

iTrader: (2)

You can get a simliar pully off of Ebay for $30 or so. It's the same thing. Some members have it.
I tried the AEM ones & never really felt any difference. I have stock pullies now & am fine with them.

phipark

Ok, genius, what would be a better value?

Sun Diego CL-S

what's funny is his caption above the avatar. hard to believe when he's in a cl-pee and tight about mods like these.

01CLKID

30$ for this seems like a good deal i really wouldn't pay $ 175 dollars for an advertised 8hp but whatever you guys can make fun of me if you'd like that's fine.

01CLKID

Sun Diego what type of pulleys do you have on your car....aparently they are a good enough deal to ridicule me for talking down about them...how has your experience with them been???

Blitz

^^^Wait, wait, wait. Who ridiculed what first? I believe the word "stupid" was used.

MikeCLS6

i was wondering what exactly are the pro's/con's of the lightweight accessory pulley kits(power steering...etc.)? not the one thats on the crank, still unsure about the long-term effects of that on the crank. Do you think the lightweight accessory pulley kits are just colorful pulleys and not worth buying?

phipark

The other pulleys are lighter, just not as big of a difference as the crank pulleys.

Bobbydoedoe

wtf? advertised 8hp? have you done your research on this subject? Or are you just posting here so someone can summarized what this pulley can do?

typeR

when are you gonna be sure of the long term effects...one CL has one for 75K miles with multiple oil tests,with no adverse signs...and then theres a half a dozen or more here with more than 50K miles again not one complaint. including my car which may have been argueablly the most abuse CL-S on the board ,it too had the crank pulley for over 50K

mefromuic

Besides being lighter dont a pulley set usually underdrive the system? Which has many implications. It should lower your top speed, not that many would care since our top speed is 157 or something. Underdriving basically lowers all the gear ratios whether it is auto or manual thus giving greater torque. You should lose fuel efficiency esp on highway since u will have to rev higher for the same speed as before.

phipark

You can get the stock diameter crank pulley.

jproy

no, no, no! this pulley does not change the gear ratios for the engine too wheels. it only drives the alternator, power steering, and A/C compressor. these are the only things that will be under driven. once again the gear ratios and top speed for the wheel to engine ratio will not be changed or affected. the UR ss crank pulley only slightly lowers the number of times the alternator, power steering, and a/c compressor turn for every rotation of the engine crank. the new UR Sc(for supercharged cars) crank pulley does not underdrive anything and is the same size as the stock unit however it weighs much less than the stock unit. I just bought the ss Crank pulley and am waiting for install on my 03 6mt

jdmerk

i will say this about unorthodoxed...i had a full set on my prelude, it was a 92 with a 2000 H22 (vtec) swap, the car was far from stock. whe i installed the engine i also installed a 8.5lb alum flywheel ACT friction disc and pressure plate(i forgot which model but it was one of the higher end plates and organic disc) along with the UR pulleys on the other end of the engine. after about 8 months my clutch failed catastrophically... the springs around the periemeter of the friction disc had enlarged their perches and one separated and became lodged between the friction disc and my expensive aluminum flywheel, causing the car to stop in the most dramatic way possible. it sucked...
so the next day i called ACT and bitched at the VP, we went back and forth for a week or so trying to figure out what it was. to the best of our understanding it was the significantly lowered rotating mass of the engine that did it. all that extra mass that the car had in stock for effectively absorbed the individual pluses from each combustion, with the new lightersetup this did not happen and the force was taken out on the springs ( which would esplain what i saw when i tore it down)
so...im not saying that the UR pulley was a bad product, it is infact a very well manufactured product. im not even saying it was even the cause of my problems alone, i do however believe that it contributed to my problem because of the weight issue. i think the flywheel had more to do with it.

jdmerk

did that help anybody or did that jsut cloud the issue further? i thought i shoudl share since i have had issues which may be attributed to this product. BTW UR achieves the majority of their gains through weight savings not underdriving the acessories, when i had it i did not notice any dimming of the lights or significantly stiffer steering etc. everythign worked great, oh and i had a 500w rockford amp powering a couple subs with no capacitor.

jproy

did you havce forced induction set up on the H22 motor? I have heard that running extreemly high power set ups and a light pully will harn the engine but for us guys with Intake/Header/Thermoblock/pulley it is no problem at all. I have had pulleys on a 95 honda accord I drove until 190,000 miles with no engine leaks or probs whatsoever. I put the pulley on at 70,000 miles. so for 120,000 i had no probs with the pulley. I had headers/intake/timing/FPR/pulley and one or two other bolt ons all installed at the same time with no problems.

mefromuic

I'm an idiot! lol

So is it possible to eliminate or bypass some of the pulleys for even more gains? I guess A/C can be taking out, not sure about powersteering though. And alternator, probably not?

jproy

you can remove the A/c and the power steering, but you should have bought a different car if you are going to do this, in my opinion. you will need different a different belt for running only the alternator and only one of the two slots for the belts on the crank pulley will be used. go to the Unorthodox site for more info.

LacViet

If you are still worry about the long term effect of pulley on our car (in this case is TL, but isn't 2G TL and CL is the same enging?) check this thread out even only a handful of us posted: https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134023
Just do a little searching around and you can see no complaint of UR pulleys for our car regarding engine failure. There are some complain about squeeking from the belt but that's easy fix.

Time For Sleeep

I think someone is running the bomz crank pulley and even then isn't having any problems.

jproy

lacviet
what is this easy fix for sqweaky belts you speak of? thanks

LacViet

Only few members here had squeeking noise, and the fix is either check to ensure the belt is correct model #, adjust the belt tensioner, replace new belt, or spray the belt with belt dressing.

jdmerk

no my car was not FI, it was NA but had headers, exhaust, cams, headwork, stand alone ecu, yada yada yada. stock bottom end though. but as i said i didnt have any problems with the engine itself. the front and rear main seal were in great shape, and all the bearings were too, had great oil pressure. we fixed the situation by him putting in a call to the guys from Exedy and getting them to ship a me a prototype friction disc, which was really just an organic disc with a solid hub (no pucks), never had problems with it again. it only took about 5k miles for the original problem to arise with the old clutch...and again im not saying it was solely because of the pulley, but likely a combination of things.

i did have a smal amount of noise with these pulleys though, i think it was because the anodization wears off pretty quickly on the contact areas of the pulleys. but it wasnt very bad it was pretty faint and i could jsut barely hear it at idle over all the other stuff. I never heard it at WOT.