can u be sure he's taking it to the 7100 fuel cut in first you'll have to shift much soonr than 2nd than 3rd inorder to avoid the cut but to get the absolute most you must be right there

 

also wanted to add... go with light weight wheels next ...like the effects of the pulley ...which i think are even greater with a wheel like the 17/8 ssr comp rotationl mass is a huge way to increase power...that and the comptech light weight fly wheel and ur car would be solid mid 13's

 

yea my clutch went out at the wrong time cause I would have got the comptech flywheel clutch packaged it comptech hadnt closed down back then

 

yea your right, it felt like the car was pulling harder on the way home from the track than it did at the track. The car must have been happy to leave or something.

 

light weight wheels, new flywheel, and reducing as much weight as you can should get you your 13 second times for sure. I agree with type R. is it lowered? Drag can play a small factor. Weight is the main thing holding you back at this point in my opinion. No need to mess with ECU tuning and buying expensive unichips that give you only about 5 hp.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/car-parts-sale-361/sold-fs-comptech-lightweight-aluminum-flywheel-cls-6-spd-371349/

Thinjim is selling his flywheel right now if you're interested.

 

...should change the title of the thread...it could be misleading to some people.

 

where was he at last month when I was looking for one of these. Lets do the math of what this would cost me to get it right now:

$450 for the flywheel
$200 to replace the part
$500 to once again have the tranny pulled of and install it.

Is $1150 gonna be worth the gain over my brand new stock flywheel right now? Oh and it cost me $1100 a couple weeks ago just to replace all of the stock stuff. LOL

 

But remember, you can do the light weight flywheel or the lightweight UR pulley but not both. If you do both, the pressure plate will take a beating. My preference is the lightweight flywheel as it improves daily driving too.

 

i never believed this and always thought it was an installation issue...ull never convince me otherwise

 

Remember honda/acura assumes production cars are not going to be raced and therefore street gear ratios are not tuned to V-TECH engagement. I believe tuning the gear ratios for the (AT) to apply exacly every shift at or above the v-tech engagement point. around 4800 RPM basically. My cl-s has the same problem. At WOT 1-2 shifts down to 4500 unengages v-tech, unless i am going down a hill. but the 2-3 shifts at 5200, awesome v-tech stays on the whole time, 3-4 sucks v-tech takes a while but Looking at the speed it's @ 110 mph 3rd gear!!! Shift points need to be modified for optimum performance in my opinion, the question is Which way can you acomplish this Trans or computer? Pulleys maybe a problem maybe not, I think the pulley is only helping achieve v-tech engagement in my opinion. I can not comment on the MT since i don't know the specs, however I assume it to be better. I was told that computer for an AT is really detuned!

 

I wish i had an MT honestly!

 

I think you are mistaken. On my automatic after a WOT shift the car would stay in VTEC. The RPMS would drop to about 4,900 RPM

See here:

http://photos.imageevent.com/mrsteve...S%2020-110.wmv

 

1-3 stay in vtec but 4th does drop out

 

just a funny thing I noticed guys, I just switched my cluster from the CLP to the CLS; now instead of vtec ingaging at 4,500rpms, now its at 4,700. Now it doesnt peg the limiter at 6,500rpms but I went to about 6,600 and let off (didn't really want to punch the rev limiter...)

 

I think the title of this thread should be changed b/c I don't see how a lightweight crank pulley could alter shift points on your vehicle. Mass moves mass. Less mass required to move the pulley faster doesn't mean your shift points changed. You only get there faster.

 

i need you to take it all the way to 7100 dont have to be wot ...just hold first and see what happens ...we may be onto something....if its an output signal from the RPM gauge it would be so easily clamped

 

I'll try to post a video of mine. I'm not getting the 1-2 shift properly then. I'm not mistaken, nor am I superchargerd, which I know does not change V-tech.

Nice Video.

 

I agree 100%

 

were you using auto stick or leaving it in drive? Either way the computer backs off the redline on the 1-2 shift to well before 7000 rpms, I believe if I can get the shift point higher I will not hav a 1-2 shift v-tech delay. Kinda confusing.

oh by the way. If you try shifting completly manually on the AT you can hit the limiter in all gears. Much Faster!

 

In an older thread, I believe he said he used gate shifting over the SS mode

 

lol @ the logic that hitting 4th sooner makes the car slower.

 

If you have a CL-P your VTEC doesn't engage until 5,500 anyways.

 

Typically my car would not be able to shift fast enough from 1 -> 2 without hitting the rev limiter.

 

99.9% of the automatics here won't ever see 4th in the 1/4 mile.

 

Yes but 2nd still starts at 4,900 RPM which is in VTEC.

I often left the car in D5 but on this occasion the car was in SS mode. Letting the car do the shifting eliminated a big variable at the track and made my times more consistent.

 

Sorry Mr.Steve but I must prove you wrong. With my clp cluster I hit vtec at 4500, now that I put in the cls cluster it says I hit it at 4600rpms. Heres a couple videos I took today for you:

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/b...8201399da5.htm
that video is both 1st and second gear...

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/4...8201395395.htm
this is just a full second gear...

 

^cluster does NOT change vtec crossover. your cluster is off about a 100rpms period.

 

just stating what I saw, the debate there was where vtec hits the clp, not howmuch of a change or if it was off or not

 

im not trying to pee on your party but how can you be 100% accurate with in 100 rpms when you think vtec is engaging? now give us a video of your car going to the 7100 fuel cut ! please

 

the videos I just took...and yes, give me about 20-30 mins

 

No. You are wrong. VTEC engagement is at 5,500 on the CL-P

http://www.geocities.com/~gamesmgr/chod/acura/#Engine2


There is no way the VTEC engagement would be LOWER on the CL-P than the CL-S.

Simply changing the gauge cluster is not going to change the peak RPM of the motor.

 

no man, changing the cluster didnt change a whole 1000rpm. its appeared to have changed it 100rpms

with old cluster it showed 4500rpms, and now it looks like it does it a little after that, 4600-4700

 

I corrected my mistake in the other thread. The J32A1 switches over to VTEC at 4,400 RPM. The J32A2 is at 4,800 RPM.

 

You used the correct term there: "appears" Just because it appears you are shifting at 7,000 RPM doesn't mean you are. The two gauges clearly do not retain their accuracy when interchanged.

 

IF you have an AT and the tranny early shifts out of 1st, you do miss VTEC in second for just a moment, but not if you gate shift. It does miss VTEC in 4th even if you take it to 7200rpm in 3rd, damn double overdrive! With the 6MT you should still hit VTEC in 4th though.. faster revs are always a good thing IMO

 

im getting my car dynoed thursday afternoon, i got a felling that the car isnt running strong. I know everyone says that the Stock ecu on our cars are suppose to be fine wit bolt ons but like its been said, every car is different so we wont truely know till the car is tested.

 

I don't know where you guys are getting this stuff from. Watch this video of my automatic car. The transmission shifts automatically from 1 -> 2 around 6,700. I then use the SS mode to shift at 7,100 for 3rd and 4th gears. All gears begin at 4,800-5,000.

http://photos.imageevent.com/mrsteve...S%2020-110.wmv

 

steve shift points will change based on driving habits in the auto in D5 if you drive WOT it will shift later if you drive less aggressive it will shift earlier so you both can be right but even though u may be seeing the shift start at 6500 momentum carries the engine rpm even higher before the shift finishes

 

Shift points will change but the RPM at which 2nd, 3rd, or 4th gear begin after a WOT shift will not. It's all mechanical. At a certain MPH the motor will spin at a certain RPM given a certain gear. It just so happens that the minimum RPM the engine spins after a WOT shift into 2nd, 3rd, or 4th will be 4,800 RPM to keep the car in it's powerband.