Project: Save a CL
Project: Save a CL
I bought my CL last July from a salvage auction. That's how I get all my cars, my dad owns and operates a body shop for 29 years thus far. I pick up a SSM CL-S 6 MT with ~60K miles on it for around $4K. After sitting all winter I'm now finally having some time to work on it. So here are the plans. . .
Re-Shoot car with SSM and over-lay holographic blue. This will make the car appear SSM when no direct sunlight hits it, a.k.a cloudy days and such, when in direct sun it will appear blue. I haven't nailed down the specific color yet but have plenty of time for that. As of now the car is disassembled as much as it needs to be and is being prepped for paint. I'm doing a complete de-badge on the back of the car. The only badge that is staying is the A on the front grille. I don't want people to know what I have lol.
Install new head unit Alpine CDA-9887. My 6 Disc went unfortunately a little while ago and I figured why not upgrade. All Alpine head units accept adapters for steering wheel controls. That was a big selling point for me.
Performance parts waiting to be installed are Ralco Pulleys Stock Diameter and XS Headers.
XS Headers are currently being modified. The flex pipe is being removed and I'm going to put a cutout in its place with an electric valve on the end from QTP.
All of this maybe except the performance stuff should be done by the end of May realistically. The performance parts will follow soon after. Future plans are endless for this car. . . I won't get into it all. Projected cost thus far including above mods is 11K. . .(Needed a new engine and clutch when I got it
) I'll follow up with some pictures when it is road ready.
Re-Shoot car with SSM and over-lay holographic blue. This will make the car appear SSM when no direct sunlight hits it, a.k.a cloudy days and such, when in direct sun it will appear blue. I haven't nailed down the specific color yet but have plenty of time for that. As of now the car is disassembled as much as it needs to be and is being prepped for paint. I'm doing a complete de-badge on the back of the car. The only badge that is staying is the A on the front grille. I don't want people to know what I have lol.
Install new head unit Alpine CDA-9887. My 6 Disc went unfortunately a little while ago and I figured why not upgrade. All Alpine head units accept adapters for steering wheel controls. That was a big selling point for me.
Performance parts waiting to be installed are Ralco Pulleys Stock Diameter and XS Headers.
XS Headers are currently being modified. The flex pipe is being removed and I'm going to put a cutout in its place with an electric valve on the end from QTP.
All of this maybe except the performance stuff should be done by the end of May realistically. The performance parts will follow soon after. Future plans are endless for this car. . . I won't get into it all. Projected cost thus far including above mods is 11K. . .(Needed a new engine and clutch when I got it
) I'll follow up with some pictures when it is road ready.
I completely forgot about this thread its been so long so here we go. . .This is what I started with:

It was hit in the front obviously as you can see from the 02'- front end. The previous body-man did an okay job. I ended up going threw ever nut and bolt on the car anyway so not much of his work was left un-touched or should I say un-corrected. Needless to say he definitely lost money on this car for the price I got it for anyway. The whole car was re-shot, I didn't end up doing an overlay but did put a bit more metallic flake in than stock so it shines a bit more in the sun
.
This is how the car sits today:


Current mods include: XS Headers, Injen RD Series CAI, Ralco Aluminum Pulleys (Stock Diameter), Corsport Aluminum Shifter Bushings, PSPEC Tuning Adjustable Short Shifter, TSX Wheels, Cooper Zeon Sport A/S 235/45/R17, Alpine CDA-9887
Future mods are: Port and Polish Intake Manifold and Lower Runners (in the works now), Emanage Blue, and Zex 82021 Nitrous Kit (55 or 75 shot), Re-Paint the wheels possibly a charcoal gray, Neuspeed Super Cup Kit
My goal for the car is 300whp. I don't want to go too crazy with this car since it is wrong wheel drive. . .

It was hit in the front obviously as you can see from the 02'- front end. The previous body-man did an okay job. I ended up going threw ever nut and bolt on the car anyway so not much of his work was left un-touched or should I say un-corrected. Needless to say he definitely lost money on this car for the price I got it for anyway. The whole car was re-shot, I didn't end up doing an overlay but did put a bit more metallic flake in than stock so it shines a bit more in the sun
This is how the car sits today:


Current mods include: XS Headers, Injen RD Series CAI, Ralco Aluminum Pulleys (Stock Diameter), Corsport Aluminum Shifter Bushings, PSPEC Tuning Adjustable Short Shifter, TSX Wheels, Cooper Zeon Sport A/S 235/45/R17, Alpine CDA-9887
Future mods are: Port and Polish Intake Manifold and Lower Runners (in the works now), Emanage Blue, and Zex 82021 Nitrous Kit (55 or 75 shot), Re-Paint the wheels possibly a charcoal gray, Neuspeed Super Cup Kit
My goal for the car is 300whp. I don't want to go too crazy with this car since it is wrong wheel drive. . .
Trending Topics
I'm doing it myself so just the cost of tools basically;
~$35 for a porting kit that I picked up from Eastwood.com
http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html
~$40 for a pneumatic die grinder I got at Lowe's
~$20 or so for various grits of wet-sand paper and regular sand-paper
So about $95 for tools and don't forget all the gaskets you need to replace if you are doing a full port/polish on the whole intake manifold which add up to another ~$95. If you are going to tackle a project like this its going to set you back about $200 and plan on investing a good amount of time as well.
I'm in central NY the nearest city is called Utica its right on the line between Albany and Buffalo. If I can round up some money I'll drop it but it doesn't look likely, too many other mods to do first.
~$35 for a porting kit that I picked up from Eastwood.com
http://www.eastwood.com/engine-porting-kit.html
~$40 for a pneumatic die grinder I got at Lowe's
~$20 or so for various grits of wet-sand paper and regular sand-paper
So about $95 for tools and don't forget all the gaskets you need to replace if you are doing a full port/polish on the whole intake manifold which add up to another ~$95. If you are going to tackle a project like this its going to set you back about $200 and plan on investing a good amount of time as well.
I'm in central NY the nearest city is called Utica its right on the line between Albany and Buffalo. If I can round up some money I'll drop it but it doesn't look likely, too many other mods to do first.
So I painted my wheels Anthracite Metallic here are some pics:






The color looks 10 times better in person these pics really don't do it justice but they give a little bit of an idea. The color looks a bit different in every lighting situation and really pops when its sunny out.






The color looks 10 times better in person these pics really don't do it justice but they give a little bit of an idea. The color looks a bit different in every lighting situation and really pops when its sunny out.
Its prolly gonna cost me at least $1K to lower it and I don't have that kind of money right now. But its next on the list I think, I'm pretty much done modding it now as its front wheel drive and hard to plant power on street tires.
If you get springs your lookin at around $200, unless you want to slam it
I plan on getting the Neuspeed Super Cup Kit its lowering springs and matched struts. This avoids an unnecessary strut pre-load that just lowering springs do when installed on stock struts. The struts in the kit are also adjustable so overall it will be better ride and handling than just lowering springs. I also need a rear camber kit, so I'm looking at about $800 in parts and whatever it costs to install them unless I do it myself.
I plan on getting the Neuspeed Super Cup Kit its lowering springs and matched struts. This avoids an unnecessary strut pre-load that just lowering springs do when installed on stock struts. The struts in the kit are also adjustable so overall it will be better ride and handling than just lowering springs. I also need a rear camber kit, so I'm looking at about $800 in parts and whatever it costs to install them unless I do it myself.
Any thoughts on this grille. I bought the color matched outer ring and painted the A with the Shadow Chrome paint kit from Dupli-Color. It didn't come out at all like I was expecting. . . I'm open to suggestions. I was thinking about getting the chrome pieces re-plated with black nickel to try and achieve the look I'm going for . . .
It's a completely different car, but I've seen 3G TLs that have those wing inserts on either side of the badge painted black, and the "A" left chrome that looks pretty good.
Alright well after much talk and research the car is going to get tuned in the next week or two. I bought my E-Manage Blue used and just wanted to re-affirm the switch and jumper settings; and post them for future reference.
Here's a link to the FAQ for the E-Manage:
http://drizze99.conforums3.com/index...num=1108222412
SW-1: 7
SW-2: 8
SW-3: D
JP1: 1-2
JP2: 1-2
JP3: 2-3
JP4: 1-2
JP5: Open
JP6: Open
JP7: Open
All of these are correct and the difference between the 5AT and 6MT is in the wiring harness. If you read threw the FAQ it explains what all of the switches and jumpers do
.
Here's a link to the FAQ for the E-Manage:
http://drizze99.conforums3.com/index...num=1108222412
SW-1: 7
SW-2: 8
SW-3: D
JP1: 1-2
JP2: 1-2
JP3: 2-3
JP4: 1-2
JP5: Open
JP6: Open
JP7: Open
All of these are correct and the difference between the 5AT and 6MT is in the wiring harness. If you read threw the FAQ it explains what all of the switches and jumpers do
Just NA stuff: CAI, Ported and Polished Manifold and Runners, Pulleys, and Headers. I'm looking to get the car running consistently more than anything at this point. Later I'm going to add a nitrous wet kit its just a matter of money like always. . .
I'm just waiting on the cable to come in. . . the emanage I bought used had the cable missing. I bought a regular usb to usb cable but it doesn't work so I had to re-order the right one. It should be on the dyno in the next 3 weeks, hopefully I can get some spacers designed and machined up by then.












